TASTE CEPHALONIA

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Table of Contents

LOCAL PRODUCTS.
CEPHALONIA SPECIALTIES
BEVERAGES

Wines of the Ionian Islands.                       Greek Beer.                        Greek Spirits.

Cephalonia produces much of its food and drink. Certainly an impressive amount for an island of its size.

Thanks to its location, Cephalonia is a stopping point for all ships coming from the Eastern Mediterranian. They are heading for Venice and other ports in the Ionian.

Garlic, onions, olive oil, and wine are, of course, an integral part of the Cephalonia cuisine. Other herbs you will find in Cephalonia cuisine are basil, dill, mint, and parsley. Goat and lamb are the most popular meats on the island, and they fix them in several ways. Marinating beef, pork, and poultry, then grilling or baking it is also popular.

So does Cephalonia cuisine taste just like Venice’s? They do have things in common. But it also has something in common with its other inhabitants over the years.

Influences from the ancient Greeks, Romans, Normans as well as more recent guests the British. There may even be bits of French and German if you dig deep enough.

Then you have the local spin on all of it. The result is a sumptuous cuisine, including many sauces and spices.

The Greeks are not prominent on frozen food, and Cephalonia cuisine is no different. It centers around seasonal vegetables and local meat and seafood.

It centers around the mother’s big cooking pot she uses to simmer the meals. Come, it is time to taste Cephalonia.

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Taste Cephalonia Through Local Products.

P.D.O. (Protected Designation of Origin) products come from a specific area. They have characteristics due to that particular geoclimatic environment,  and production takes place in that region.

P.G.I. (Protected Geographical Indication) products also come from a specified area. Only one of its characteristic needs to be from this area. Also, only one part of the production must take place in the region.

Despite its fertile soil and mild climate, Cephalonia does not have any food items that have P.D.O. Status, yet.

And Now for Something Completely Greek.

Polyphemus the Cyclops, a Greek creation living on then Greek Sicily, makes the first Feta cheese. Odysseus, who “borrows” all over the Mediterranian, probably brings some home as a gift.

For the next several thousand years, traditional Cephalonia cheese is feta. The world knows Cephalonia cheesemakers for their feta.

So when 2002 rolls around, and Greek Feta gets its P.D.O. Status, guess who gets the shaft? Why? We have to turn to another Greek word, politics.

With or without a P.D.O. Label, the feta cheese of Cephalonia, is unique. You need to taste Cephalonia feta and see if you do not give it your Designation of Origin.

Olive Oil

The Kefalonia P.G.I. Virgin olive oil is worth trying, maybe over some Cephalonia feta.  There are more than ten olive presses on the island producing this golden treat.

Koronéiki and Theiakó olives are the two main varieties, although they grow others as well.

To learn more about olive oil, visit the Olive Museum of Pylaros in Makriotika.

Just because they do not have a lot of letters in their name, do not think Cephalonia has substandard products. Thanks to regular rainfall, fertile soil, and a mild climate, the growing season is long. This extra time produces foods with incredible flavors.

Herbs and Spices.

As they do on many islands, herbs grow wild on Cephalonia. Many of them are original to the Mediterranian. These are some of the most popular ones on the island.

• Bay Leaf (dáfni) – is an import from Asia Minor. It is from the laurel tree. From the laurel headpieces at Olympia, we know they are in the Peloponnese by the time of the Ancient Olympics. Like most cuisines, the bay leaf goes into hearty stews and soups to add flavor and comes out before serving.
• Dill (ánitho) – is originally from the Mediterranian. It is a common ingredient, especially in vegetable dishes. They also pair it with greens such as spinach, so it is probably in your spanakopita.

• Fennel (maráthos) – is a herb and a spice. The Greeks use all of the plant parts roasting or stewing the roots, stalks, and leaves. The dried seeds become the spice. Fennel is a native to the Mediterranean.
• Greek basil (vasilikós) – grows everywhere in Greece. However, it is more prevalent in the Ionian Islands, where it goes with anything containing tomato.
• Oregano (rígani) – is almost always in Venetian-inspired recipes, often in a tomato sauce. But you will find it in or on meats, fish, cheese, and salads. It is probably from Greece and became an export to other Mediterranian regions with the Phoenicians.
• Rosemary (dendrolívano) – is famous for flavoring meat dishes, especially lamb. They also use it in egg dishes, and to flavor vegetables.

• Summer Savory (throúmpi) – originates from the eastern Med. It is different than the Savory of Crete. It is a favorite flavor with legumes, white cheeses, fish, soups, and stews.
• Thyme (thymari) – is a popular flavor for slow-cooked meats, olives, beans, and in Greek honey.

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Taste Cephalonia Specialties.

You will find the standard Greek items that appear on just about any Greek menu.

However, the island has several traditional things that you will find nowhere else. Or at least their preparation and presentation. You’re on Cephalonia. Shouldn’t you taste Cephalonia cuisine?

Meze (appetizers)

Meatballs – are small finger foods that come in as many flavors as there are ingredients. They often start with beef and pork.  Not exclusive to the island, but they have their local character. 

Tyropithakia – are small phyllo triangles with local Feta cheese filling. It may include additional ingredients as well.

Riganada – is the Cephalonia version of bruschetta. Slices od local bread with oregano, fresh tomatoes, and local “white” cheese.

Bourbourelia  – is a bean soup with a combination of lentils, beans, chickpeas, or fava beans. Water, salt, pepper, and olive oil are the only other ingredients.

Sausage 

I have not found a sausage that you can only find on Cephalonia. In other words, a recipe like no other. The tastes are different as the local butchers use ingredients they can obtain, usually local. Pork is big. There is beef, and one time, I did find a chicken sausage.

Village Sausage – is the island’s mystery meat. It appears to be pork, but no one can give me another name for it except loukanika (sausage in Greek). It varies from village to village, and it is tasty. Some have an orange hint to them.

Taste Cephalonia Cheese

What makes the Cephalonia cheeses, milk, and yogurt unique? The animals feed on aromatic wild herbs in addition to grasses.

White Kefalonian – is the code name for the local feta. They make it with sheep and goat’s milk. The flavor is slightly acidic, and you can sense the pasture grasses and herbs.

Manouri – is a byproduct of feta. Think feta with a cheesecake texture and less salty, milkier in flavor.

Kefalotýri – is a hard, salty cheese they make from sheep’s and goat’s milk. Traditionally this cheese matures in brine for at least six months.

Myzíthra – is a fresh cheese they make with milk and whey from sheep, goat’s, or both. Think cottage cheese.

Préntza – is traditionally a blend of Myzíthra and White Cheese. They add flavor with thyme and olive oil.

Graviéra – is a hard cheese with a rich and spicy flavor. It can also be semi-hard with a sweet taste.

Yogurt

Yogurt (giaoúrti) uses the local sheep or goat’s milk, so it has the Kefalonian twist. They use it in Tzatzíki dip, with local honey and spoon sweets. Its unique flavor gives all of these dishes a taste Cephalonia calls its own.

Pasta

The pasta was in Cephalonia long before the Venetians. Greeks were eating a form of pasta long before the Italians. They never take it to the level Italy does.

Meat

The goats, lambs, sheep, and a few cows spend most of their time grazing on wild plants and grasses. You can taste this diet in the flavors of the meat, milk, butter, and cheese.

The most popular meats in Cephalonia are the goat, followed by lamb – sheep. You can also find beef, veal, rooster, chicken, rabbit, and hare on some menus.

Kreatopita – is a Cephalonia meat pie. The pastry (crust) is phyllo, and the filling can be just about anything. Beef, pork, and mutton are popular meats. Additional ingredients can include garlic, onions, potatoes, rice, tomato, and spices. The filling is usually firm, not like a pot pie’s creamy sauce.

Keftedákia – are meatballs in a tomato sauce. Usually, the balls are about the size of a golf ball. The tomato sauce may be slightly thick (in a bowl) like a puree of tomato or a glaze.

Bifteki – are meatballs on steroids. They are a larger meatball with a stuffing. First, the meatballs – they have meat, bread crumbs, garlic, onion, and oregano. After mixing this, they wrap it around the local “white” cheese. Then they grill them similar to a hamburger.

Sofrito – is slices of veal that they dip in flour and then fry (Frito). Then they add a potent amount of garlic and parsley. They finish cooking it in a pan with vinegar and white wine. Warn your taste buds.

Chicken

Like the goats and sheep, chickens are free-range. Many families keep a few chickens for fresh eggs.

Chicken Tserépa – is very traditional. They marinate the chicken overnight in garlic, olive oil, and oregano. They slow bake it with tomato, lemon juice, wine, and potatoes in a tserépa. That is a traditional clay cooking vessel they can put over charcoal, and it keeps the moisture in.

I have seen them do it with lamb as well, but chicken is the traditional meat. This recipe is a taste Cephalonia does well.

Braised rooster – is surprisingly good. The chef slow cooks the rooster in a tomato, red wine bath until it is fall off the bone tender.  It goes over thick spaghetti and has a local cheese grated on top.

And the Egg

Strapatsáda – starts with fresh diced tomatoes. Then they heat these in a frying pan and then add eggs and local “white” cheese. They scramble the eggs and cheese with the tomato. Of course, every chef has a slightly different recipe.

Almost Vegetarian

Eggplant Pastrokio – is a dish of the poor people. They layer fried eggplant with cheese, egg slices, pancetta, salami., then top it with tomato sause and bake.

Agginaropita – is artichoke pie with phyllo crust. The filling is artichoke hearts, feta, herbs, green onions, and eggs.

Horiatiki Salad – or as we call it in America, Greek Salad. They use the local tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, peppers, black olives, and local “white” cheese.

Fish

In a few of the villages, you can still find small fishing boats selling their daily catch. You have to get up early for this. Another tradition still alive is the fishmonger trucks. (Think the neighborhood ice cream truck.)

While they drive, they are saying over a loudspeaker what fish they have. I think that’s what they are saying. It’s all Greek to me. In Argostoli, there is the fish market along the waterfront.

Bourgeto – is a cooking method for fish. It goes in a pot, with onion, olive oil, lemon juice, and a little water. The fish is whatever is fresh that day, monk and cod are popular. The result is somewhere between fish filet in sauce or fish stew.

Whitebait in tomato sauce – are small fish they fry and then toss in a spicy tomato, garlic, onion sauce.

Cod with Agliada (Italian) or Skordaliá (Greek) – They fry the fish in olive oil. Then comes the good stuff. Skordalia in Cephalonia is potatoes, codfish broth, and loads of garlic in a paste the consistency of fava or hummus. To this, I think they add more garlic. They call it Greek penicillin as it will kill anything terrible in your body.

Cod fritters  – are simple and accessible.

Ktapodopita (Octopus pie) – is a phyllo pie they fill with octopus simmered in red wine. They mix this with fresh vegetables and a little rice.

Vegetables

We probably need to revisit Skordaliá one more time. Potato, fish or seafood broth and GARLIC. But not just any garlic. They use the island’s pride and joy, the to kókkino skórdo tou Erissoú, (garlic of Erissos). The bulb is red on the outside but white on the inside, and small in size. Garlic lovers will get a kick from its unique taste. The harvesting of these is the sign that summer is here.

Skordostubi – grinds garlic with salt, olive oil, and lemon juice. They say some people use it as a dip. My eyes cross at the idea. Usually, it creates a dish when they bake vegetables in it. Aubergine Skordostubi is eggplant they slow-cook in the mix. It may or may not have some tomato as well.

Vegetable pie – may or may not have a crust. Think pot pie with a vegetable stuffing depending on what is seasonal. The pie fillings may include zucchini, onions, pumpkin, cheese, or combinations, with rice or cheese holding it together.

Other vegetables that do not have P.D.O. status but worth tasting include

• Cucumbers (angoúri)
• Imam Eggplant (melitzánes) – which they stuff with onions and tomatoes and bake into the oven.
• Onions (kremmýdia),
• Red and green peppers ( piperiés),
• Sweet peas (bizélia),
• Tomatoes (domátes)
• Zucchini (kolokythákia)

In the winter, they get an excellent selection of vegetables perfect for a soup or stew.

• Beetroots (pantzária),
• Broccoli (brókolo),
• Cauliflower (kounoupídi),
• Chard (séscla),
• Chicories (italiká radíkia).
• Leeks (prássa).
• Lettuce (maroúli),
• Potatoes (patátes),
• Spinach (spanáki).

Wild Greens

Tsigareli  – are wild greens they saute with onions, tomatoes, and spices.

Agriolachana – are wild greens they boil and serve with olive oil and lemon.

They may serve them as a side or for filling in a pita.

Some of the more popular greens on Cephalonia are.

• Caper (kápari),
• Dandelion (pikralída),
• Glasswort (armyríthra).
• Milk Thistle (gaïdouránkatho),
• Prickly golden fleece (zochós).
• Purslane (glistrída),

• Rocket (róka),
• Samphire (krítamo),
• Sorrel (lápata)
• Sweet peas (pisára),
• Wild Chicories (radíkia),

These are only a few of them.

Fruits

Summer fruits include:

• Apricots (veríkoka),
• Cherries (kerásia),
• Figs (sýka) and Dried figs (apoxiraména sýka)
• Melons (pepónia),
• Peaches (rodákina),
• Pears (achládia).
• Plums (damáskina),
• Sour cherries (výssina),
• Strawberries (fráoules),
• Watermelons (Karpoúzia).

In the fall, look for:

• Persimmons (lotós)
• Pomegranates (rodiá).
• Pumpkins (kolokýtha).
• Raisins (stafída),
• Quinces (kydoniá).

Due to the mild climate, in the winter they harvest:

• Bergamot Oranges (pergamóta),
• Bitter oranges (nerántzia),
• Grapefruits (frápes),
• Lemons (lemónia),
• Oranges (portokália).
• Tangerines (mantarínia).

Not only does the fertile land grow excellent produce, but they do not pick them until they are ripe. That makes such a difference.

Desserts and Sweets

Almonds (amýgdala) and walnuts (karýdia) are two of the most popular nuts they grow on the island. They appear in many of the Kefalonian desserts.

Amygdalotá – is an almond pie. They chop sweet and bitter almonds. They add these to a mix with sugar, rose or orange flower water and put in a phyllo crust.

Galaktoboúreko (milk pie) – is more of a cake. They place pastry cream with semolina, cinnamon, lemon, and vanilla, in filo dough. They cover it with syrup.

Halvás – is a semolina pudding they sweeten with syrup. It usually has local nuts and raisins.

Karydópita – is the walnut version of the almond pie.

Mántoles  – are almonds they roast until they are a vibrant, deep red.

Pastokydono – was a traditional dessert of Cephalonia mixing quince paste with honey. Today, most bakeries use cheaper sugar. They sprinkle nuts on top.

Xerotígana – is the local version of Loukoumathes. Balls of pastry they fry and drizzle with honey. They add local almond bits on top.

Glyká tou koutalioú (spoon sweets) – is a way to enjoy the delicious fruits all year long. They cook the fruits in sugar and preserve them in heavy syrup. Think jam at various levels of thickness.

Mantoláto (nougat) – is a candy they make with sugar or honey, local nuts, egg whites. It makes for a soft, chewy sweet.

Honey

The island is home to approximately 400 bee-keepers making honey. Many are for personal use, but there are also several large producers. Many of the individual operations are organic, and they will sell their surplus. Ask around.

The most popular types of honey on the island are Thyme honey (méli thimaríou). Many consider this the best quality of Greek honey.

Pine honey (méli elátou) comes from higher up on the hillside. It is a mix of pollen from the Kefalonian fir and the wild herbs and alpine flowers.

Click the orange link to read more about Greek Cuisine,

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Taste Cephalonia Beverages

Spirits

Rosolio – is the local firewater they often drink after a meal. There are no commercial producers, so you may only come across this in private homes or small tavernas. To pure alcohol, they infuse local flavors, including fruits like lemon, orange, sour orange, mandarin, or pear. They also use herbs, including myrtle, sage, and rose petals.

BEER

Greek-owned breweries disappear when beer conglomerates go on a buying spree in the 1960s.

A little behind other countries, Greece began micro-brewing in the late 1990s. Cephalonia now has its first microbrewery. (You can still get the stuff from northern Europe, but you’re not in Amsterdam.)

Kefalonian and Ithaka Microbrewery – use 100% Greek malted barley and Kefalonian water to make their high-quality beers. Currently, they offer a premium lager and a red ale. Check their website (orange link) for new flavors.

Taste Cephalonia Summary.

Are these all the traditional foods and wines of Cephalonia? Hardly!

But these will keep you busy for a few days and give you an insight into the local cuisine.

So many people try to visit Cephalonia for a day and leave with the wrong impression.

Why not plan to spend 3-4 days and see, experience, and taste Cephalonia.

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IONIAN WINES

GREEK BEER.

GREEK SPIRITS

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