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Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD-SEE CEPHALONIA.
OUTSIDE OF TOWN.
BEACHES.
Cephalonia is the largest Ionian island and is northwest of the Peloponnese. The capital of this rugged island is Argostoli, on the southwest shore of a small harbor. There is a short cruise pier there.
Sami closer to the east coast seems busier as the ferries from the Greek Peloponnese and Italy call there. Many beaches are only accessible by boat or on foot on narrow twisting paths.
Ancient History.
The island has its fair share of Mythology (made-up stuff). Maybe the island gets its name from the mythological figure Cephalus.
Many believe that this is Homer’s island of Ithaca, the home of Odysseus and Penelope. Unfortunately, ancestors-R-Us does not go back that far.
There are real findings indicating inhabitants on the island since before the 10thmillennium B.C. These include tools and other items from the Paleolithic era.
The archaeological sites of Tzanata, Metaxata, and Mazarakata all contain the ruins of Mycenaean tombs. Their presence indicates it was a significant destination during that age.
During the Achaean and classical Greek period, there were four cities – states dominating the island. Krani, Palli, Pronnoi, and Sami. These are the names of the four sons of Cephalus. (See the section about mythology above).
These city-states were independent and autonomous of each other. Both the archaeological sites at ancient Krani and Sami are open to the public. The Archeological Museum of Argostoli has many of the findings.
Less Ancient.
The Romans arrive in 188 B.C. and conquer all the Ionian islands. During the early years of the Byzantine rule, Kefalonia was under the control of the Achaia province on the Peloponnese. They will leave temples, palaces, and Roman baths. Some remain, in part.
Due to its strategic position as the gateway to the northern Ionian Sea, the island suffered frequent raids. There were also temporary new owners from time to time, until circa 1200 A.D. The Franks take over during the land grab they jokingly refer to as the Fourth Crusade.
The Franks
The island, as well as the others and the Peloponnese and mainland become chess pieces. Their sovereignty bounces from feudal lords to dukes to counts to no accounts for approximately the next 300 years. It even includes the Ottomans for a short 21-year period. Then, circa 1500 A.D. the Venetians move in for an extended stay.
The Venetians
Venice pretty much runs the Ionian Sea for the next 300 years. Ports and islands switch owners briefly but most come back under the Venetian rule. There is nobody that can beat them. Until a short Frenchman with a Napoleonic Complex arrives circa 1796 A.D.
The French
Napolean is victorious, but he spreads his troops, and finances, too thin over Europe. The next year, he turns Cephalonia over to the Septinsular Republic, a Russian-Ottoman group. By 1807, Cephalonia falls into the hands of the British.
The British
At first, the British are the good guys as they are against the Ottomans in Greece. With the beginning of the Greek War of Independence in 1821, Greek resistance groups start forming against the British. Not just on Cephalonia.
By 1829, the Greek War of Independence is over. By 1832, Greece has a new constitution and king. But the Ionian Islands are still under British rule.
The next thirty years are not peaceful with numerous uprisings and the hanging of several radicals.
Finally, by 1864, representatives of the United Kingdom, Greece, France, and Russia sign the Treaty of London. Items include the transfer of sovereignty of the Ionian Islands to Greece. On May 28, the Greek flag began waving on all the Ionian Islands.
First World War.
Second World War.
British troops took the Ionian Islands in October of 1944. The Greek Civil War starts soon after. It is between the Greek government army and the military branch of the Communist Party of Greece. The government wins five years later.
1953 Shake Rattle and Roll.
In August of 1953, the island suffers four different earthquakes. The most damaging registering at 7.3 on the Richter scale. It lifts the island two feet out of the water. Waterlines are still visible in some places. It damages most of the island, causing many people to relocate to the mainland.
Cephalonia Today.
Today, the island has a mishmash of historical sites. There is ancient Greek, Roman, Venetian, traditional Greek, and post-earthquake. In the 1980s, tourism finally reaches its shores. It is very popular with Italians who can reach it by ferry. There is also a commercial airport.
Fortunately for the local economy, cruise ships are now calling on Argostoli May through October. They can overwhelm the town and sites.
What is in Cephalonia for me?
See & Hear.
Mount Ainos is the highest peak with an elevation of more than 5,000 feet. There are several other peaks you can hike or visit. Several beaches have nearby cliffs where you can hear the waves crash.
Taste & Smell.
Much of the Ainos mountain range consists of a National Park with Greek fir and black pine covering the hills. Hike through the crisp pine air and work up an appetite for the delicious local cuisine.
Feel.
You are sipping a glass of Greek wine on a wooden porch overlooking Petani Beach.
The sun, the size of a dinner plate, is setting. You can feel the island sigh and relax.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Cephalonia.
Ancient Greek.
Ancient Acropolis of Sami – sits on Lapitha Mountain, overlooking the port of Sami. You can drive most of the way up. From Sami, there is a small brown archeological site sign on the right. Park where you can. There are no signs or labels once you begin climbing. Outside of wall foundations, there are no structures to see. The site dates to the 5th century B.C.
The Cyclopean Walls of Ancient Krani – overlook the bay and Argostoli. The huge (like a Cyclops) stone walls, dating from circa 7th-century B.C., are in relatively good shape. They are two to four rows high in some places. Due to the lack of machinery and the excess of earthquakes in the region, their longevity is admirable. There are the ruins of a pre-Mycenaean tomb nearby.
Archaic Temple of Skala – is right alongside the road near Skala. Dating from circa late 6th century B.C. it was a temple to Apollo. There is very little surviving except a few foundations.
Below Ground
Mazarakata Mycenaean Cemetery – is outside the village of Argostoli. On discovery in 1908, 17 of the chambers are intact. Many of those items are in the Archeological museum. There is not too much to see. The site has no signage inside. There is a fence around it, but the gate does not have a lock.
Tholos Tomb of Tzanata – is just off the road to the village of Poros. This tomb was probably a royal tomb as its contents were golden jewelry, royal seals, and precious stones. You can see several of these at the Archaeological Museum of Argostoli.
Some guides will tell you it is the burial place of Odysseus, the guy from mythology.
The Greek sites on the island are only for diehard Greek ruin fans.
The Romans
The Roman remains are in better shape than the ancient Greek. They also require some imagination.
The Roman Villa at Skalla – contains remains of six rooms of a circa 200 A.D. Four of the spaces include mosaics. The site has a roof over it, making it a nice stop on a sunny day. It seems to close on Tuesday and sometimes other days. It is at the south end of town, one block in from the beach behind a small strip mall. (Really.) Look for the stairs to the left of the parking area.
Roman Villa of Saint Euphemia – is part of two rooms with a mosaic floor. The site sits in a lot on the corner of a back street. It is one block behind the market at the southwest corner of the harbor in Agia Efimia.
The Roman Cemetery of Fiscardo – dates from the 2nd century B.C. to the 4th century A.D. The cemetery is one of many Roman ruins in the area. It contains two rectangular sections which have a total of 27 tombs.
The tombs show 600 years of Roman architecture which helps date them. Inside, they found pottery, glass vases, jewelry, metal objects, and coins.
Ask a local where the small ruins of a Roman theater, a house, and a bath complex are. You will not find them on a map.
The Franks
St George’s Castle (Kastro) – dates from the 1200s A.D. Sitting more than 900 feet above sea level, lookouts could see ships long before they would arrive. The sturdy Venetian walls were able to keep the capital of the island safe from any invaders. The inside area was home to the village, two churches, storerooms, cisterns and a hospital. It covers approximately 16 acres. The walk through the town and climb will reward you with incredible views.
The Venetian Castle of Assos – is on the west coast to protect Assos village from pirates. It is the larger of the two castles on Kefalonia. Construction began circa1593. At its height, it was a strategic location, making Assos the capital city of the island’s north side. Nowadays, all that remains are parts of the wall and very few parts of the castle. The more modern church of San Marco sits inside the ruins. The walk, while long and uphill is on a well-paved sidewalk and in shade much of the way.
Monasteries
Monastery of St. Gerasimos – is a sacred place as St. Gerasimos is the patron saint of Kefalonia. The chapel contains his relics in a glass case above the Saint’s tomb. Gerasimos came to Cephalonia via Jerusalem, Crete, and Zakynthos arriving in 1555 A.D. After cultivating the land he began building the monastery near Valsamata. It was for the care of poor people and became a center for charity. He protects them from illness and helps them to heal. Out of respect, cover your knees and shoulders when visiting a religious or memorial site. The monastery is approximately a 25-minute drive from Sami or Argostoli.
The Monastery of Agios Andreas – honors the Apostle Andrew who began a nunnery on this spot circa 60 A.D.
In 1579 three spiritual sisters, Benedict, Leondia, and Magdalen buy the property and begin a new monastery. Circa 1630, Greek Romanian princess, Roxanne, donates a large amount of money for its reconstruction. She will later become a nun here. There is an ecclesiastical museum on the grounds. It includes the Holy remains of part of the Apostle Andrew’s right foot. Other treasures some dating to 1300A.D. are on display. It is approximately 15 minutes drive southeast from Argostoli.
Kipouria Monastery – is on the west coast around 25 minutes drive from Lixouri. This cliffside monastery hangs more than 300 feet over the Ionian Sea. It has a remarkable collection of relics from different saints and rare icons. If you wish to feel closer to God, be there at sunset. (Yes, I’m going to go there) they are heavenly.
In Town
Argostoli
The Obelisk Kolona – to me is a great starting place. This four-faced symmetrical obelisk sits in the harbor. The monument. from circa 1813, is a symbol of gratitude to Great Britain. There is a plaque stating To the glory of the British Empire in four languages. The inscription mysteriously disappears soon, (some say hours) after the British cede the island back to Greece in 1865.
De Bosset Bridge – dating from 1813, is also a remnant from the British occupation. Today, it is still the largest stone bridge on a body of seawater. It began as a wooden bridge to link the two sides at the narrowest point. At one time, it was for traffic. The 1953 earthquake destroys a portion of the bridge. They rebuild the missing part and strengthen the rest of the bridge. At one time, there was a bridge from it to the obelisk. It is a great place to see the layout of the town.
Koutavos Lagoon – is on the southeast side of the bridge. It is a feeding ground for the endangered loggerhead turtles. It is also home to wild ducks, black-headed hens, swans, and many migrating birds.
On Land
Ekklisia Panagia – is a small Greek church across the street from the bridge as you enter Argostoli. Nothing famous about it, I just think it’s a great little church to peek in. The church lighting at night is attractive. With the bridge to my back, I continue into the town a few blocks to Lithostroto Street. (Look for a small playground on your right.) Turn right before the park. This block is NOT the most scenic section of Lithostroto Street. After approximately four blocks, the street becomes a pedestrian area.
Lithostroto Pedestrian Street – continues for many blocks from this point. It is the major shopping and strolling street. Just look out at corners as traffic crosses it at several places. The pedestrian section stops abruptly at Geor. Vergoti street. Supposedly, this is the beginning of Vallianou Square, but to me, it’s just a busy intersection.
Squares
Kabana (Bell) Square and Historic Clock Tower – is a meeting place for locals along Lithostroto. The square is a gift from the Venetians (1500–1797) and was initially St Marks Square. The original clock tower dates from 1790. The earthquake of 1953 destroys the tower, but the bell receives almost no damage. Seeing this as a sign, the local women collect donations to rebuild the tower. Finally, in 1985 the bell rings for the first time in 32 years.
Vallianou Square – is the main square of Argostoli. In the northern end, you have a traditional plaza with benches, statues, and events in the summer. In the southern end, you have government buildings in the middle and a museum. They are officially part of the square, but you lose the “plaza” feeling.
Municipal Theater of Kefalos – is a modern building sitting on the site of the original 1857 opera house. It anchors the southwest corner of the non-square square. They host some lovely musical performances.
Archaeological Museum of Argostoli – is across the street from the theater in the middle of the “square.” Here, the best parts of the Greek and Roman period on the island are on display. The collection contains local antiquities, ranging from the 12th century B.C. to the Roman periods. UNFORTUNATELY – during a 2014 earthquake, the museum receives structural damage closing it. As of the summer of 2019, there is still no official word on when or if it will reopen. Check their website (orange link) for updates.
Also in Town
Korgialenio History and Folklore Museum – is a block behind the theater. It occupies the ground floor of the Korgialenios Library. Here you can learn more on the island’s history and folklore. Items include home and farm tools, art, coins, maps and photos of old Cephalonia.
Waterfront – Just down from Bell Square is the Central Market on the harbor front. You can find fruit, vegetables, meat, and seafood here. The market is a fun stroll in the mornings to see fresh products and listen to bargaining. Watch for birds and sometimes turtles looking for scraps.
From the market going northwest, is a lovely promenade with black and white stone mosaic and palm trees lining it. The walk runs as far as the port buildings. On the other side of the port complex is the car-ferry dock to Lixouri. The ferries run continuously and are a fun alternative to reach the southwest side of the island.
West of the Cruise Pier
Kefalonia Museum of Ancient Greek Technology – is one of several museums that Kotsanas operates. If you don’t believe the ancient Greeks made it first and made it best, you will after a visit here. Drawings, models, and displays show that many things new were old Greek first.
Katavothres – is a unique geological phenomenon. Water from the sea washes over sinkholes and seems to disappear. A resourceful man, (his nationality varies depending on who tells the story) hooks up a waterwheel to harvest the water. He grinds local grain using the hydropower. You can see the sinkholes and possibly one of the original waterwheels at the site.
Agion Theodoron Lighthouse – is a replica of an original lasting from 1828 until the 1953 earthquake. It is a simple circular design with 20 columns around the base. The light is approximately 25 feet above the ground.
Acqui Division War Memorial – sits on the hill above these sites. The memorial remembers all the Italian soldiers of the 33rd Acqui Infantry Division. Over thirteen hundred soldiers lost in battle, and 5,155 prisoners the Nazis shot over two days in September 1943.
The other 3,000 men of the division die when the boat they are on, going to the concentration camps, sinks.
Areas Outside of Argostoli
Fiskardo
This charming fishing village at the island’s north end is only one block wide in some areas. It wraps around a small bay. Just about everywhere they did, they find Roman artifacts.
Venetian Lighthouse – is a round tower at the point across the bay from Fiskardo harbor. Experts believe it dates from early in the Venetian occupation, (circa 1200). Six hundred years later, the British build a square one above it on the hill. Further, up the hillside are the remains of a Byzantine Basilica with a few recognizable wall portions still standing. You can drive to the other side of the harbor, and hike from there. The trail is unpaved, over uneven terrain and elevations.
Lixouri Town
A short (scenic) ferry ride from Argostoli takes you to Lixouri on the Paliki peninsula. It is the island’s second-largest town but has a different vibe than Argostoli.
The waterfront is not for tourists; there’s no promenade. Boats in the small harbor are working ones, not pleasure craft.
There’s not a shopping street for tourists and few hotels. Lixouri is a Greek town catering more to the locals than outsiders. Maybe that is why I like the vibe.
In the 1800s, Lixouri was a popular tourist destination for Europeans. Composer Richard Strauss was visiting a local musician repeatedly.
The town, like most of the island, has to rebuild after the 1953 earthquake.
Typaldoi-Iakovatoi Mansion – was one of the few buildings that survived the 1953 earthquake. It became a library with more than 25,000 books, rare publications, and other literary documents. Unfortunately, it did not do so well in the 2014 earthquake. As of the summer of 2019, I can not get official word on its future.
Platia Ethnikis Antistaseos (National Resistance Square) – is the heart of the town and just south of the ferry dock. Sip a coffee, have lunch, or sip a glass of Greek wine and watch the world pass.
Lixouri Philharmonic Orchestra – is the second-oldest orchestra in Greece. (Remember reading about Richard Strauss? He was here for professional reasons as well.) The orchestra performs concerts and hosts an international conference of Philharmonic Orchestras each summer. It also has the Young Band of the Lixouri Philarmonic.
Sami
This town is popular and somewhat touristy as it is the major ferry port for the island. Ferries to nearby Ithaca depart year-round and to Patras and Italy in the summer.
There are vacation apartments, small hotels, and even a campground. It is also the gateway to many of the islands most famous sites, including the before mentioned Ancient Sami.
East of Sami
Holy Monastery of St. Fanentes – is at the end of the road leading to Ancient Sami. A small church sits next to the ruins of the monastery dating from circa 1200 A.D. Some say the monastery was home to the relics of the Saints Gregorios, Theodoros, and Leon, Christian hermits living here.
With the Norman invasion, the holy relics move to Venice. By the 1800s, the monastery was already a shadow of its former self. By the 1900s there were very few left, and they left after the 1953 earthquake. The only icon still on the island is at the Church of the Assumption of Theotokos in Sami. It is the protecting icon of the three Saints, dating from circa 1654 A.D.
Saint Nicholas Chapel Ruins – are just beyond St Fanentes. Here you can see the frescos on the wall behind the altar, one of only two walls partially standing.
West of Town
Karavomylos Lake – is a scenic lake and a bit of a geological phenomenon. Saltwater from the sinkholes in Katavothres ends up here, but it is not as salty. The island either filters it through underground rivers and rock, or there is a source of freshwater mixing with it.
Melissani Lake – is a 15-minute walk west of Karavomylos. It is a cavern of an underground cave system. Thousands of years ago, the dome fell in, allowing the sun to reach into the cavern. Oarsmen do tours in rowboats. Mid-day is the best time to visit for light. Any day a cruise ship is in is the worst time.
Old Vlachata Village – is a Greek ghost town. After the 1953 earthquake levels much of the village, the inhabitants left the hillside location to move to lower grounds. Today, it makes for a beautiful hike from Karavomylos village. Plan on just over an hour going up, and approximately 45-minutes coming down. You can drive there as well. Look for the signs for the Saristra Festival. Or visit during the festival. It takes place mid-August and is a mix of old village customs with modern Greek music, contemporary art installations, photography, paintings and more.
South
Drogarati Cave – is at a depth of around 200 feet and remains at a constant temperature of 64°F. The humidity is high, making steps and walkways slippery. Sensible walking shoes will be your best friend. There are two areas to visit, and both contain stalagmites (from the floor) and stalactites. The Royal Balcony allows you to look down, and the Chamber of Exaltation enables you to view above. They do not skimp on the electric lighting, making navigation as well as seeing easy.
There are no sites in this town and it is not on the way to anywhere. The road deadends just north of the pier. There are a few guest houses and hotels, but no beach. It is a ghost town in the winter.
So why do I go here? I’m not sure. But in the spring or fall, sitting in one of the tavernas or cafes along the waterfront makes me smile. It might be watching the sunrise over the mountains across the water as the village comes alive. It might be having a fresh seafood lunch and watching the boats coming and going from the small harbor. Or maybe a glass of wine and watching the shadows lengthen and little twinkle lights come on along the shore. It makes me smile.
A visit to the local cheese and meat market also helps. Arriving or departing by boat is still on the to-do list.
Beaches.
There are close to 50 beaches with names and even more without names. They range from full-service family-friendly with soft white sand, to rocky shores with no services. Some of the most popular are:
North
Myrtos beach – is on the northwest coast and is probably the most photographed beach on the island. I think it is great for photos from above and sunsets from below or above. The sand has many white pebbles in it, making aqua socks or beater-sneakers a good idea. Currents can be nasty on rough days. There are sunbeds and services available.
South
Antisamos Beach – is less than 20 minutes drive from Sami and was a setting for the movie Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. While convenient, scenic and with full-service, the beach is all fist-size rocks in the water and out. I don’t like rock beaches, but this one is popular.
Skala Beach – is on the southeast point of the island. The town is a popular tourist area with many vacation rentals. The beach stretches for miles so you can find full-service areas and stretches that have fewer people. The beach starts sandy, but as you walk towards the water, there are patches of small pebbles. Better than rocks, but some may want beater-sneakers.
Makris Gialos Beach – is 10 minutes from Argostoli. This narrow sandy beach is famous. Beach clubs offer full-service and sunbeds. There are also areas where you can bring your towels and umbrellas.
Xi Beach – is 15 minutes drive from Lixouri. Its claim to fame is the red sand from the lava soil of the island. It is sand. To me, it seems to get warmer than regular white sand. Also, in some cotton items, it will never wash out thoroughly. The beach is quite long offering full-service areas and semi-secluded stretches.
For those wanting more dramatic beaches or seclusion, water shuttle services are available from several harbors around the island.
Beach Wear and beware.
PLEASE NOTE: Various levels of clothing appear at the Greek beach. Some Europeans may go topless in the middle of full-service beaches, (it happens.) Some of the European bathing suits leave very little to the imagination.
Secluded beaches and rocky areas at the ends of beaches are famous for topless and textile-free sunning. If this offends you, stay away from these areas. Officially, it is not legal. Realistically, police are probably not going to climb over rocks looking.
Avoid Greek beaches in July and August.