Table of Contents:
PHILOPAPPOS HILL
PNYX HILL
NYMPH HILL
The Hills of Athens
Philopappos Hill, situated to the Southwest of the Acropolis, is one of the seven historical hills of Athens.
In addition to the Acropolis and Philopappos, there is the Hill of the Nymphs, just to the north of Philopappou. Adjacent to the Hill of the Nymphs is Pnyx Hill. We will visit all three of these hills further down the page.
Tourkovounia Hill is approximately 5 miles north, northeast of the Acropolis Hill. Outside the walls of Ancient Athens, it was home to a statue of Zeus. Nothing from Ancient times remains. It may have had a Turkish cemetery during the Ottoman Occupation. Today, you can barely see it through the high-rise buildings of modern Athens. The Monastery of Prophet Helias resides on the hill and is visible from the other hills on a clear day.
The Areopagus Hill is situated at the base of the Acropolis, adjacent to the Propylea and overlooking the Ancient Greek Agora. The name comes from the Greek “Areios Pagos,” meaning Hill of the Greek god Ares, god of war. In mythical times, a trial against Ares for killing one of Poseidon’s sons took place here, giving it its name. Later mythical trials include the trial of Agamemnon’s son Orestes for murdering his mother, Clytemnestra.
The Hill also served as a meeting place for the governing and judicial councils of the mortals. It also had a supreme council responsible for cases of murder and religious matters.
Circa 50 A.D., the Apostle Paul, during his second missionary journey, preached his famous sermon at the Areopagus Hill. This sermon is in Acts chapter 17.
When the Romans took control of Greece, they replaced Ares with their god of war, Mars. Some still call it Mars Hill.
Lycabettus Hill is the highest hill in Athens and in Central Greece, at approximately 908 feet. Yet, it was never the Acropolis of Athens, and played a low part in Mythology. During ancient times, the hill may have been a habitat for wolves (lycos in Greek).
There is a small amount of archaeological evidence “suggesting” there were inhabitants around the 4th millennium B.C.
There is a legend that the Greek Temple of Zeus Extreme lies under the current Chapel, but no physical proof.
During the Roman period, it contained a reservoir and aqueduct built by Hadrian.
Today, the hill is home to the Holy Church of Saint George of Lycabettus, dating from 1870—a typical Greek church offering stunning views of Athens.
Just below the church is an upscale restaurant, open for lunch and dinner, with a seafood-influenced menu. Last time I was there, the food was good. The panoramic terrace was better. There is also a cafe for tighter budgets.
To reach this part of the hill, you can climb a paved path of zigzags or take the Lycabettus Hill Funicular. Please note that the lower station is not at the bottom, but halfway up the mountain. I take a taxi up to the station.
On the eastern side of the hill, below the summit, is the Amphitheater of Lycabettus. The structure, dating back to the 1960s, was originally built to perform ancient Greek tragedies. Closing in 2008, it sat empty for 15 years. It reopened in 2023 after a significant renovation. It offers a summer and fall concert series.
Philopappos Hill
Standing only 30 feet shorter than the Acropolis hill, it offers some of the best unobstructed views of the Acropolis, especially at sunset, and even in the morning with the sun behind the Acropolis.
Why is the hill also known as the Hill of the Muses? “Legend” (made-up stuff we can’t prove) says this dates back to the 5th century B.C. Around this time, the Sanctuary of Musaeus sat on this hill. Musaeus, in Greek meaning “He of the Muses” was a legendary Greek philosopher, historian, priest, poet, prophet, seer, musician, blogger, etc. Depending on whose “legend” you listen to, he may have been the son, student, or contemporary of Orpheus. The sanctuary, where he may be buried, may be on the top of the hill. At some time in the hills’ history, there was probably a temple to the muses, hence the name.
Philopappos was a Greek Prince who became a great benefactor to the city of Athens. Upon his death in 116 A.D., the hill took on his name..
When I first came to Greece in the 1980s, you could drive to the top of the hill. Today, it is only open to pedestrian traffic. So how do you get to the top? Thirty years ago, I would power walk to the top and look at things on the way down. I don’t do that anymore.
The main entrance is at the west end of Dionysiou Areopagitou, the wide sidewalk that runs along the southern base of the Acropolis. (There is a stop here for the on/off buses.) There is no large sign advertising the hill. Please note, as of 2025, there are no public restrooms on the mountain.
A few hundred feet up the main road will be a brown sign pointing left to our first stop.
Prison of Socrates.
What do we know of this structure? Well, it dates to the 5th century B.C. The National Archaeological Museum hid artefacts from the museum and nearby Acropolis here During WWII. Most everything else is from legend. Some say this is where Socrates was imprisoned in 399 B.C. and then executed after his trial. How did he manage to get himself imprisoned, anyway? His charges were impiety and corrupting the youth, which translates to embarrassing the people in power with his constant questioning (the Socratic Method) of their beliefs and rules. Whether he was here or not, it is an interesting and old structure. Then back out to the main street.
St Demetrios Loumbardiaris
On the right, when you are facing up the hill, is this small Byzantine church. The original structure dates to the ninth century, although most of what you see today was rebuilt in the 12th century.
Kimoneia
On your left, just beyond ST Demetrios, is this double tomb carved into the bedrock. An inscription dates it to the 3rd Century A.D.
Deaf Man’s Cave
Similar to the Kimoneia, this two-chambered cave is believed to have started as a place of worship. Later, it was a home, and eventually a tomb. Legend says that the man who lived here was deaf. There is no marker on the main road. Follow the path to the Dora Stratou Theater (on the right). The cave is on the right, just under the theater path.
Eptathrono
Fifty feet further from Deaf Man’s cave on the walk to the theater, is this site on the left. Seven seats are cut from into the hillside. When? Not really sure. Why? Probably as a place for rituals or a council to meet, but no one seems to know for sure. To the right of the seats is a somewhat easy path back up to the main road.
Back on the main road, you should see a white monument protruding above the trees at the top of the hill. Your mind tells you to walk straight to it. Then you see a large path off to the right, and you want to take it. You can, but I suggest against it. This route is the long way to the top.
At the top of this stretch, the main road does a U-shaped turn to the left. Once you are halfway through this curve, you can break off through any clearing to the right.
However, if you continue along the curve, you will be rewarded with several benches, possibly in the shade, depending on the time of day. Here, you can rest before the final climb.
Dimitris Pikionis’s Terrace.
Demetrios Pikionis was a Greek architect, painter, and critic. Between 1954 and 1958, he designed the walkways and much of the landscaping around the Acropolis and Philopappos Hills.
Walk behind the stone benches on the main road, and you will find your first great view of the Acropolis (and more places to sit). This area is my favorite spot of all of Pikionis’s work.
When you are ready, behind the seating area to the right (as you face the Acropolis) is a paved and an unpaved path almost to the top of the hill.
Heroon of Musaeus.
Where the paved path ends is the “legendary” funeral monument of the “legendary” Mousaios, who, according to legend, lent his name to the hill it is on.
Philopappos Monument.
Gaius Julius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos was a Greek Prince of the Kingdom of Commagene (today’s Syria) who became one of the most prominent Greeks in the Roman Empire. Through friendships with Emperor Trajan and his heir Hadrian, Philopappos became a Roman senator. He, along with Hadrian, was a great benefactor to the city of Athens.
Upon his death in 116 A.D., the citizens of Athens erected this tomb. The burial chamber underneath is no longer intact. From here, enjoy some of the best views of Athens.
The quickest way back down is to return to the Terrace via the paved path. Continue on this path, and north of the terrace, it becomes a curving staircase down. Follow it. You should come out across from St. Demetrios.
To the left of the church, on the other side of the main road, is a paved path. Just past the church on the right is a metal fence. If the gate is open, follow the paved path to the right past the storage(?) container until the pavers end. Turn left and follow the dirt path for about 50 feet. You should see what looks like stone foundations, very low walls on your left.
If the gate is closed, continue following the paved path until the pavement ends. At the Pnyx sign, turn right, go up the steps, and the first chance you get, turn right and walk towards the open area just beyond the trees.
After taking another picture of the Acropolis, start walking towards the Acropolis. There is a dirt trail that appears to have curbs in places. You will come across a paved area just before getting to the trees. To your right are what appear to be stone foundations, with very low walls.
Pnyx Hill
When gatherings in the Agora became too crowded circa 500 B.C., they created a meeting place on a hill just west of the Agora. They called it the Phyx (in Greek: tightly together). Eventually, the entire hill came to be known by that name.
Starting at the stone foundations, with very low walls:
Themistoclean Ancient Wall
These are remnants of the first city walls of Athens, built at the beginning of the 5th century B.C. The finished wall, made from parts of old temples, statues, and other ruins, would measure over five miles long and have 13 gates. The walls measured 9 feet wide and had a minimum height of 26 feet. The ruins you are looking at were part of the western wall.
Turn, and with the wall behind you, you should be able to see the dome of the National Observatory sticking up over the trees on the far side of the open area. Walk towards it. When you reach the middle of the open/cleared area, you should see that you are on a terrace, with part of another terrace above you (left) and a lower one to your right.
Pnyx Monument
Where you are standing would have been where the officials would stand when making a presentation. The male Athenians over the age of 18 would sit on the terrace below to hear the orators. They would use this spot for over 200 years as the discussion place (parliament, Senate, House) for the birth of democracy.
When the crowd reached 10,ooo, they moved to the recently refurbished Dionysus theater, circa 300 B.C. A Sanctuary of Zeus would sit on the site during the Roman period.
Meton’s Sundial
The square ruins of the foundation of Meton of Athens’ heliotropion sit back from the top of the steps leading to the lower level. From this area in 432 B.C. Meton, a Greek mathematician, astronomer, and engineer, discovered the Metonic Cycle of solar years and lunar months.
Dorides Telescope
Home to a 40-centimeter refracting telescope, it dates back to 1902. For almost 60 years, it was the largest telescope in Greece. Today, it is part of the National Observatory of Athens and is occasionally open to the public.
Nymph Hill
If you think (loosely) of Philopappos and Pnyx hills forming two sides of a triangle, then the Hill of the Nymphs would be the third side.
There is not a lot of history known about this hill. The National Observatory of Athens compound now sits on a site that was possibly dedicated to the Nymphs in ancient times. The rest of the hill is giving up no clues. Being outside the city walls and on the back side of the hill from the city, it might have been out of sight, out of…
National Observatory of Athens – Thissio Visitor Center
It contains the Thissio Visitor Center, an excellent stop for those interested in astronomy and geoastrophysics.
Today, the hill’s only other claim to fame is the unhindered views from it towards the Saronic Gulf during sunset. However, with no restrooms or other services, I’m going to stick with the air-conditioned rooftop lounge at my hotel.
Extra Credit
There are two additional sites on the hills, but they are not visible from the hill. From Apostolou Pavlou, the pedestrian street that divides the hills from the Ancient Agora.
Sanctuary of Zeus
At the bottom of the Hill of the Muses, between the Apostolou Pavlou and the beautiful Holy Church of Agia Marina Thisiou, are the few remains of this sanctuary. It is more important for what it represents than what you can see.
These rock-cut terraces date from the late 6th Century B.C., making this the earliest known sanctuary of Zeus in Attica. It was probably in dedication to Zeus Meilichios, an earlier version of the Zeus we think about. You can only see it from outside the fence.
Sanctuary of Pan
Walking back towards the main gate of the hill (the agora is on your left) on the Pnyx Hill, just below the Pnyx, is this sanctuary, dating from the Roman occupation, circa 2nd century A.D.
Although Pan was the Greek god of shepherds, nature, and the wild, the Romans sometimes used him instead of the Roman counterpart Faunus. Supposedly, there is a relief cut in the rock of Pan and a dog, although I have never been able to see it through the fence.
From here, it is a 3-minute walk back to where we started.
Other options include two paths that run between the Ancient Greek Agora and the Acropolis. The upper path is paved and starts across the street from the main entrance to the Hill of Muses.
The lower path is a gravel road that runs right along the fence of the Agora. If you are standing facing the Sanctuary of Pan, turn right. It is about 100 yards down on the right.
Both pass the S.E. corner of the Ancient Agora, where there is an entrance (fee required) for the Agora. Both end near the Roman Agora near Monstraki.
There is another entrance to the Ancient Agora on the north side, off Adriano Street between the Stoa of Attalos and Temple of Hephaestus.
A third option is the Kerameikos Archaeological Site, a 15-minute walk from the Sanctuary of Pan, going past the Sanctuary of Zeus.
Summary.
This walk is a great 2-3 hour escape, and much of the Philapoppou Hill has shade. It is a great trip to partner with a trip to the Acropolis, Ancient Agora, or Kerameikos Archaeological Site.
Don’t be a tourist. Explore Athens from a different perspective.