BACK TO PAROS
Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD-SEE ANTIPAROS.
BEACHES.
Antiparos island is the uncola of Paros. It is a small island famous for its relaxing atmosphere and secluded beaches.
It is famous for what it does not have. It does not have tourists, tourist sites, too many businesses geared towards tourists, and crowds. And, it’s a day trip from Paros.
For those wanting to escape everything, it is a destination for more than one day.
A short ferry ride from the village of Pounta on Paros brings you across to Chora, the main (and only real) town on Antiporas. There are less frequent ferries from Parikia.
Today, Antiparos is separate from Paros by a narrow channel less than a mile across. It is a prevailing theory that they began as one island. What history they know about Antiparos dates to the Neolithic times.
Saliangos, now an island off the NE coast of Antiparos, is home to an ancient settlement dating back to 4000 B.C. Due to the size and location of the island, it also seems to point at the two larger islands being one at some point.
Ancient History.
Records first refer to the island as Oliaros, and the first inhabitants were probably Phoenicians in the Neolithic Age. As with most Greek islands, they lose to the Minoan Cretans around the 2nd Millennium B.C.
Excavations on the nearby island of Despotiko reveal ruins of tombs from the Early Cycladic Era, and on Paros, you also find Mycenaen ruins.
Like so many islands, it also has Greek mythology connections. Antiparos, a minor character, was one of the fifty sons of Aegyptos. He, along with 48 of his other brothers is done in by their wives, the (Danaïdes) daughters of Aegyptus’ twin brother, Danaus.
Less Ancient.
With the Fourth Crusade in 1204, the Byzantines lose and all of Greece, including the islands, is split up by the Franks as war prizes. Venetian Marco Sanudo swoops in, conquers the islands, making himself the duke. The island now goes by the name Antiparos.
This period in time involves frequent attacks by pirates from Crete, Kefalonia, and ports on the African coast. The Venetians build the Kastro to protect the island from pirates and invaders.
Around 1537, Antiparos along with the rest of the Cyclades comes under the Ottoman rule. Except for a short period (1770 to 1774) when the Russians stop by for a quick looting, the island remains under the Ottomans. Fortunately/unfortunately the Ottomans had very little interest in the islands and left the Venetians to run them and collect taxes for the Sultan. There is little to no signs that the Ottomans were ever here.
In 1821, the people of Antiparos were among the first in the Cyclades to participate in the Greek War of Independence. It joined the Greek state in 1832.
In World War II, the Allies use it as a secret base against the Germans.
And then the world went away, and Antiparos found itself in the 1960s. It liked the 1960s and remained in them for the next 30 years.
Antiparos Today.
With the exploitation of Mykonos, the Greeks looking for off the radar islands made their way to Antiparos. Requiring a minimum of two ferries from Athens to reach it, it was the perfect island at the end of the road. Unfortunately, they needed their trendy bars and cafes they had fled in Mykonos. Barfoot bars and mom and dad motels are slowly adding low white sofas, gauzy drapes, and candles everywhere. It’s not Mykonos of today, but it’s not Antiparos of the 1960s either. Antiparos, stop growing.
In recent years, some big names from Tinseltown have taken up summer residences. Tom Hanks and his Greek-American wife Rita Wilson, co-producers of a movie about Big Fat Weddings have a home here. Nia Vardalos, star of that movie vacations here with her children. Matthew McConaughey and his family know the island as do many European celebrities. While still a place to get away, the need to get away may make Antiparos no longer the place to get away. PLEASE stop growing.
What is in Antiparos for me?
See & Hear.
There is not a lot to see: no ancient sites and limited natural beauty. So maybe it’s what you don’t see or hear. The sea of tour buses, the hoards pouring off the ferries every 15 minutes, the mass of scooters making you wonder if you are in downtown Toyko or a Greek Island.
At the beach, you can hear the waves, the birds, and the laughter of children. Or the wind as it is blowing over a deserted hilltop or rugged coastline. Sometimes the quiet almost hurts your ears.
For those who like steps, caves and more steps, there is the opportunity to delve into the depths of the island.
Another option is to sit on the waterfront, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Stroll the Chora. Getting lost here is a little more difficult due to fewer passageways. But try. Tavernas grilling meat and bakeries put heavenly scents into on the breeze.
Feel.
Sit in a cafe along the Chora waterfront and enjoy a glass of Paros wine, (imported) as the sun sets.
Watch as the lights of Paros begin to twinkle on across the water, and the sky goes from Azure to deep blue.
There may be better ways to start your evening, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Antiparos.
In Town.
There is not much to Chora. It has the typical waterfront with cafes and fish tavernas with a car rental here and a small hotel there.
Across from the tour-boat pier is the main street leading away from the waterfront. Here you will find cafes, boutiques, gift shops, and art galleries, many with an edge. There are a few Greek cafes and a few catering non-Greek cuisines.
The village is predominantly flat making it walkable. There are scooters, ATV, and bicycle rentals. Of the three, bikes being the only thing outside of walking or renting a car that I would recommend.
Outside of window shopping, there is only one major attraction. Towards the back of the town is the remains of a Venetian home (castle) dating from around the 14th century. It houses a small museum.
Around the castle are the remains of the worker’s homes. They build them one next to each other to form a square fortress around the house of the lord. Over the years, remodeling and additions have somewhat muddled the lines.
Just Outside Town.
Within walking distance of the ferry dock is Psaralyki Beach. It consists of two beaches, going by the names Psalariki I and Psalariki II. You reach P. I. after a 10-minute walk south along the road from the ferry pier.
The beach is suitable for families due to its protection from large waves. There are sun beds for renting and trees providing shade. There is a shop for watersport rentals, (windsurfing, peddle boats) and there is a cafe and tennis courts adjacent.
Two minutes further along, beyond the large beach club on the point, is Psaraliki II. Here is a smaller beach with a tavern and two music clubs, which are open day and night. The 20-30s seem to prefer this party beach more.
Due to the lower number of families on Beach II, there may be some nude sunbathing. Although not the islands “nude beach” it does happen so be pre-warned. Topless is common on many Greek beaches.
Outside of Town.
You do not go to Antiparos for its spectacular scenery or must-see sights. People go here not to see others.
Cave (Grotte) of Antiparos.
References from ancient times refer to a cave on the island. Archilochus, a poet from Paros, was the first to leave his initials here around 670 B.C. They are finding remains from different centuries. Many are in the Archeological museum in Paros.
The cave goes forgotten until 1673 A.D. when the French find it. From that time on, repelling down into the cave and carving peoples names in the stalagmites and stalactites became the thing to do. Later, they use rope ladders. Even the Greek King Otto and Queen Amalia did so in 1840, although I doubt they lowered themselves.
Unfortunately, the cave has been a victim of vandals for centuries. In 1673 A.D. the French broke off large pieces of stalactites and stalagmites to ship back to France for display. Soon after the Russians arrived in 1770, large fragments from the cave began adorning showcases at the Hermitage Museum. The Germans were mean. They did a lot of damage to the cave during their retreat from Greece in WWII.
In 2009, they put in a modern staircase of 411-steps down (and what feels like double that coming back up.) The staircase has a secure railing and adequate lighting.
Autographing the natural scenery, or worst carving it, is no longer permissible and the area is under video surveillance. The walkway takes you down through several “halls” where you can see the cave and the autographs. Of course, Otto’s is in the last hall at a depth of more than 270 feet below the entrance. There are audio guides in both Greek and English.
Above Ground.
At the mouth of the cave are two churches, one being the 18-century church of Agios Ioannis Spiliotis. It connects internally with the smaller and older chapel of Zoodohos Pigi. Studies of the art and architecture place its construction at possibly the 14th century.
The ante-chamber at the beginning of the cave, which has benches for those waiting, is separated from the second chamber by a huge stalagmite. This 45 million-year-old stalagmite, named ‘Peloria Kentriki Kolona’ [huge central column], is the oldest in all of Europe.
The cave closes in the winter.
Despotico
Despotico is a small island a short distance south of Antiparos. Its only inhabitants are goats. There are several small coves with sandy beaches where you can find peace. No food or plumbing, but peace. There are a few boat owners offering trips, in season, over for some beach time and a grilled lunch.
Why are you telling me this? There are beaches on Antiparos. I’m telling you because Despotico was once very popular in ancient times. It was the center of the Cyclades and due to a well-protected harbor, a major trading port.
It contains more artifacts than Paros and Antiparos combined. The bad news: the site will not be officially open to the public for several years. However, people can visit the area from the port of Agios Georgios on Antiparos. Here, you can arrange a boat that will drop you at the beach. From here, you will need to make your way to the site.
The bad news: only a fraction of the ruins have been excavated, so it is a small site. However, When they officially open the site, there should be tours from Antiparos and Paros with guides. As recently as the summer of 2018, they have been finding metal objects, pottery, and fragments from the 6th century B.C.
Several pieces are already in the Archaeological Museum at Parikia.
Saliagos
Off the NE end of Antiparos is the islet of Saliagos. Here they have been excavating a settlement dating to 5000 to 4500 BC. It is currently the oldest settlement in the Cyclades.
Unfortunately, there is no talk of opening it to the public. However, some of the finds are on display at the Archeological Museum in Paros.
Beaches.
There are no other villages on the island. Most groupings of buildings happen around some of the beaches, so let’s skip to those. As Greek beaches go, Antiparos has some very nice ones.
Panagia Beach.
Located a five-minute drive south of town, this beach is just far enough from town to get fewer people. Some trees provide shade, and there is a local taverna that offers food and drink. Sand has a mixture of small pebbles. There were no sunbeds or water sports rentals the last time I was there.
Glifa beach.
Another five-minute drive south from Panagia is Gliga. As this island is not a major tourist destination, the majority of the beaches do not accommodate masses. This news is good. Like Panagia, you will not find sunbeds and water sports rentals. You will find a sandy beach that attracts guests in the nearby small motels and guest houses, plus a few extra. There are trees for shade and a taverna within walking distance for food.
Plage Ag Georgios.
Located at the SW end of the island, I suggest this as a beach for sunsets. On a clear night, you can watch the sunset over the islands of Nisida or Despotiko. From here, it is a short stroll to a nearby fish taverna.
West Coast
Much of the west coast is rugged with rock and very few accessible coves along the way. Most of these are either rocky, catch the wind the wrong way making them choppy or both.
Sifneikos beach.
This beach is a fifteen-minute walk from the ferry pier right through town. Although a pretty setting, it also seems to catch the wind/current wrong. The beach has rocks and there are rocks underwater as well. Best for sunsets for people staying in town.
Camping beach
a fifteen-minute walk north from town is a camping area and Camping beach. The beach has quite a bit of submerged rocks, and aqua shoes are a great idea. There are trees for shade and a small store, cafe, and bar at the camping area.
To the right, when facing the water, is the official nudist beach on the island. Over the years, the lines have blurred, and you will find various levels of dress and undress along both ends of the beach. This end also has rocks, although it seems like fewer and a sandbar that reaches across to an islet. There are no services at this end and limited shade.
Sunsets from the beach closest to the camping area can be nice.