Table of Contents:
WHICH GRAPE IS WHICH?
BORDEAUX
BURGUNDY.
CHAMPAGNE.
LOIRE.
CORES-DU-RHONE.
SOUTHWEST FRANCE.
BEAUJOLAIS
LEFT THE PARTY.
SUMMARY.
Beers of France. French Spirits.
Believe it or not, French wine goes back a few years. Specifically, to the 6th century B.C. when the Greeks start colonizing Southern Gaul. Of course, they bring the art of winemaking with them—something they have been doing at home for hundreds of years.
They start in the area that today is Marseille. The roots catch on, and soon winemaking catches on in Gaul.
Soon after, the Roman Republic, who also began producing wine thanks to the Greeks, needs more wine. They formally seize Gaul and its wine.
Not so Ancient French Wine.
For the next several thousand years, the Roman Empire grows and makes improvements to wine and production.
When the Roman Empire falls around 476 AD., the church picks up where the Romans left off. They are actively spreading Christianity and planting vineyards. The monks are the only ones with the wealth and protection to keep wine production going through turbulent times. In 800 A.D., with the beginning of the Holy Roman Empire, monasteries receive more resources and security. Soon they have the best wine.
The decline of the Holy Roman Empire begins around 1648. As a result, rulers and other nobility began buying up vineyards. This buying spree only lasts a short time until 1789, when poor people start demanding a little better treatment.
The “people” tend to the French wine for the 50-60 years. At the same time, Napoleon rises, falls, and rises again. France tries a few republics and empires. For the most part, they leave the French wine industry alone to grow.
1863 the Phylloxera epidemic in England starts making the jump to the mainland of Europe. As a result, France’s wine industry is disappearing. To emphasize, every vineyard in France feels some destruction.
Hit with the Ol’ I and II.
It takes years to figure out what is causing the vines to die and come up with a solution. Slowly, France begins to regain a part of the wine market.
Then, they find themselves in the middle of a World War. More destruction, more rebuilding.
Less than 30 years later, and we have World War II. More destruction, more rebuilding.
Today, France is once again in the top two wine suppliers in the world. However, there are many more players now.
The Grape from …
Even before winemaking came to France (Gaul), winemakers know that where you plant the grape is essential. The same type of grape growing in two regions will produce two different wines.
Through the centuries, French winemakers take this further and develop the concept of terroir. They realize different vineyards in the same area also make unique wines.
Next, they go a step further and do different sections in the same vineyard. For example, the fields at the top of the hill drain well. The areas at the bottom may have damp soil more often.
Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC).
Surprisingly, this is not for French wine. The idea is to protect several agricultural products. The first product to receive protection is the cheese from the area of Roquefort. It dates back to 1411 AD. in a decree from Parliament.
Fast forward to 1919 when the Law for the Protection of the Place of Origin goes into effect. Specifically, to deal with French wine in 1935, the government forms the Comité National des appellations d ‘origine (CNAO). As a result, the first legal recognition of an “appellation of origin” goes into effect for the Côtes du Rhône.
Then, after WWII, it becomes the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO). In 1990, it expanded to cover other agricultural products, very similar to its beginnings. These include meat, cheese, honey, butter, spirits, and even lavender.
Currently, there are over 300 French wines that may use the designation A.O.C. on their label.
French Wine Place and Show.
French wine that does not receive the A.O.C. designation falls into two other classifications.
Indication Géographique Protégée. (I.G.P.) These wines, while not getting A.O.C. designation, still get a geographic status.
Vin de France is the ugly step-child in the eyes of the French wine powers. Their label can include the grape variety and vintage. However, they may not say what region or appellation. Their status means “coming from France.” Before 2010, they go by another name, “Vin de table” (table wine).
French wine today.
In general, France supplies around 20% of the world’s wine. Although, some years, Italy ties or beats this as the second-largest producer.
How Do You Keep French Wine Straight?
In the first place, there are 200 different grapes. Then, I.G. = A.C., or is it O.C.? And who is on first.
It is incredibly confusing. But there are 15 wine regions in France. Let’s start there. Sounds easy, right?
BORDEAUX
With an output of over 450 million bottles per year, Bordeaux is the largest wine-producing region. It sits in south-western France, on the Atlantic coast. In this case, they are primarily producing
red wines, with a few white wines. Important to realize is that several of these reds are the best and most expensive wines in the world.
Burgundy.
Indeed, another prominent French wine-producing region is Burgundy (Bourgogne). It lies in the eastern central part of France. Here, they are producing red and white wines together.
As unbelievable as this will seem after learning about Bordeaux, Burgundy is even more terroir-conscious. More than any other region in France.
Burgundy ranks at the top with the most (100) appellations of any French region.
Let’s divide the Burgundy region into five main parts starting at the top:
- Chablis – Sparkling wines.
- Côte d’Or
- The Cote de Nuits – Almost all red wines. S.E. of Chablis.
- The Cote de Beaune – Red and white. S of Cote de Nuits.
- The Cote Chalonnaise – Red wines S of Cote de Beaune.
- The Maconnais – White wines. S of Cote Chalonnaise. N of the Beaujolais region.
All but Chablis are in the valleys along the Saone River, a tributary of the Rhone River.
So far, pretty simple, right? So Let’s start adding the layers.
In Burgundy, There are four levels:
- Grand Cru, (highest) 33 appellations. In this case, only the name of the Grand Cru appears on the label.
- Premier Cru, 562 appellations. The label will have the name of the village and the words, Premier Cru.
- Communal (or village) 44 appellations. The label has the name of the village area producing the grapes.
- Regional (lowest). 23 appellations. Grapes can come from several areas throughout Burgundy.
With each level up, the regulations are more strict, but usually, the wine is of better quality. With better quality comes a better price for the one selling it. Another variant that affects cost is the size of production. Often they are producing the Grand Cru wines in smaller batches for higher quality control.
As always, there are more layers under these.
However, as this is not a university-level class in French wine, we are going to move on.
Most popular red wine grapes: Pinot noir.
Red wine appellations. The Côte d’Or is home to 32 of the 33 Grand Cru appellations. The ones famous for red wines are predominantly in The Cote de Nuits. These include Richebourg, Romanée-Conti, Musigney, and Clos de Vougeot.
Most popular white wine grapes: Chardonnay.
White wine appellations. The white Grand Cru is in the Côte de Beaune and Chablis regions. These include Montrachet, Corton, Charlemagne, and Chablis.
So now we know everything about Burgundy wine. Let’s rush out and buy a case.
Before you head out, I give you a word of caution. The Grand Cru from the Côte d’Or appears on just about everyone’s “Most Expensive Wines” list. And not only once. They are usually the majority of the top 10 on the list. For this reason, you may want to reconsider.
But how much can one bottle of French wine cost? Well, the Grand Cru wines of Burgundy begin at over one hundred dollars per bottle. From there, they can go to several thousand per bottle.
The good news is that a bottle from a Premier Cru appellation is going to be in the $40-$80 range.
You should be able to find Village appellation wines for $25-$50 per bottle. Indeed a better price than a thousand per bottle.
Champagne.
Champagne, (Capital “C”) lies in the north-eastern area of France. It is the northernmost of all regions and the coldest of France’s major wine regions. Champagne produces sparkling wines, both white and rosé. Although you can find red and white (still) wine production in Champagne, it’s not the reason you visit Champagne.
Unlike other French wine, they blend Champagne (Capital “C”) with different wines to create a consistent wine every year. This need makes the blending more critical than the terroir.
Most popular Champagne Grapes: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay.
Champagne appellations. There is only one for the sparkling wine. With it comes strict rules for the production of the wine.
But it’s a French wine, so there’s more to learn.
Champagne Styles.
Traditional Styles.
Non-Vintage (N.V.) This style is the most traditional of all Champagne. Non-vintage Champagne is a blend of multiple varieties and vintages (different years) of wine.
Vintage Millésime. This style is when all the wines in the blend come from the same vintage year. On the negative side, this does not necessarily happen every year.
Cuvée de prestige This is the tête de cuvée (head, leading) of a Champagne house. They collect grapes from their best grand cru and premier cru vineyards. This harvesting only happens when the cellar master considers the grapes to be of outstanding quality. They also receive more aging for a minimum of seven years. Significantly, the two oldest are still the two most popular, Roederer’s Cristal, (1878) and Moët’s Dom Pérignon (1928).
Rosé Traditional. A blending of white and red wine that creates a pink wine before it starts the secondary fermentation.
Non-traditional.
Blanc de Blancs. A Champagne using only white grapes like Chardonnay.
Blanc de Noirs. A Champagne using only black grapes, like Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
That Sweet Brut.
Brut refers to the level of sugar (sweetness) you find in a Champagne at the time of serving. (Grape juice becomes alcohol when yeast eats the sugar). After the second fermentation, before the last bottling, a mixture of liquid (wine) and sugar goes into each bottle. This mixture is a dosage—the more sugar, the sweeter the final wine.
They measure the residual sugar in grams per liter bottle.
Brut Nature 0-3 grams 0 – 3/4 teaspoon of sugar per bottle.
Extra Brut 0-6 grams 0 – 1.5 teaspoons of sugar.
Brut 0-12 grams 0 – 3 teaspoons of sugar.
As the sugar continues converting to alcohol, the range for any Brut can be as low as 0. In other words, if you see Brut on the label, think not sweet.
Extra Dry 12-17 grams 3 – 4.25 teaspoons of sugar per bottle.
Dry 17-32 grams 4.25 – 8 teaspoons of sugar.
They are adding enough sugar that some remain. Although the alcohol offsets some sweetness, you will taste some sugar.
Demi-Sec 32-50 grams 8 – 12.5 teaspoons of sugar per bottle.
Doux 50 or more grams
Champagne, (Capital “C”) is always a sparkling wine.
However, not all sparkling wines are Champagne. Keep in mind; a real Champagne is from the appellation of the same name.
The Loire.
The Loire Valley stretches almost 170 miles along the Loire River in central and western France. Dating to the time of the Romans, it also benefits from the monks over the middle ages. Between the 15th – 17th centuries, it is the summer playground of the French aristocrats. They have an eternal need for wine. Owing to the French Revolution in 1789, the Valleys good days come to a screeching halt. Not to mention, the Phylloxera outbreak about 100 years later. It knocks the wind out of the valleys sails.
Then, in 1935, while establishing the French wine Appellation d’Origin Contrôlée, something significant happens. The wine commission recognizes the Loire Valley as a region of quality wines. The sails catch the wind.
Breaking it up into three sections, the upper, middle, and the lower Loire Valley, helps make it seem less daunting.
Keep in mind, each section (area) has different wines even though the grape types are often the same.
The section has four sub-regions and almost 70 appellations.
UPPER
Most popular Upper Loire grapes. Sauvignon blanc, Chasselas, and Pinot Gris.
Popular Upper Loire appellations. The upper Loire is the smallest region with perhaps the most giant roar. (It’s always the little ones with something to prove). For example, three distinct soil types give it a reason to roar.
Two wines, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, dominate the region. Surprisingly, the Sancerre area has interesting red wines, but they are hiding in the shadows of their bigger siblings.
For sure, you want to check out Sancerre A.O.C. and Pouilly-Fume A.O.P. But also sample the wines from Quincy A.O.P. and Reuilly A.O.P. And try the red wines. Some will surprise you.
MIDDLE
Most popular Middle Loire grapes: Chenin blanc (white) Cabernet Franc (red).
Popular Middle Loire appellations. As always, there are sub-regions with sub-regions.
The area around Anger (Anjou) has several A.O.C.s. Many specialize in rose wines, while others reds and whites. To repeat, the same grape plus a few miles apart equals a different wine. The Savennières A.O.P. produces a white wine that is not your daddies’ Chenin Blanc. Try them all.
By all means, while in the Anjou area, check out Layon’s Anjou Côteaux de la Loire A.O.P. Their specialty is sweet wines. In this case, don’t scoff. One is a Grand Cru.
The Saumur region is known for producing sparkling wines, and a glass from the Saumur Mousseux A.O.P. is a sweet finish to the day.
But Saumur is gaining the world’s eye with red and whites as well. Chenin Blancs, ranging from dry to sweet, and reds from Cabernet Franc, are worth noticing.
The Touraine region is one of the largest along the Loire with more than 20 appellations. With so many choices, it’s almost impossible to know where to start. (Almost). Indeed the Chenin Blanc grape is present. It shines in several forms alone and with Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris. On the other hand, the red Cabernet Franc mixes with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, and Pinot Noir.
There are even three AOPs that specialize in sparkling wines. AOPs to watch are Haut Poitou, Bourgueil and Chinon for reds. Touraine, Cheverny, and Vouvray for whites.
LOWER
Most popular Lower Loire grapes: Muscadet, Folle Blanche, and Pinot Gris.
Famous Lower Loire appellations. You will find several A.O.P.s with the Muscadet grape in their name. Each region has a different tasting dry white wine from the same grape.
Gros Plant de Pays Nantais A.O.P. uses the same grape for their wine that Cognac and Armagnac producers use for their liqueurs. Coteaux d’Ancenis A.O.P. uses the Pinot Gris in many of its wines. They also have a few red and roses, although white wine is king.
Closer to the ocean is Fiefs Vendéens A.O.P. In like manner, a few red and roses but Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, and Chardonnay are the stars.
Côtes-du-Rhône.
The Rhône Valley has been a part of French wine pretty much from the start. The Romans, using the Rhone river as their supply route from the coast, began planting vineyards along the banks. Of course, the monks claim the best vineyards during the middle ages. In particular, the lands around Avignon.
Today the region hugs the Rhône River from Avignon, 60 miles inland, north to Vienne, about 125 miles. Both the northern and southern Rhône are producing red wines, but they differ. These wines compete on a level with Bordeaux red wines. There are more than 25 appellations.
Northern Rhone.
Although it is a small section of the Côtes-du-Rhône, the north packs a punch. The vineyards cling to the hillsides in terraces. No doubt, these are some of the steeper vineyards in France. Namely, this is the home of Syrah wine. Additionally, it is where to find Viognier.
Most popular red wine Grapes: Syrah.
Red wine appellations. Hermitage, Côte Rôtie, Cornas, and St. Joseph and others.
Most popular white wine Grapes: Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne.
White wine appellations. Condrieu, Château Grillet, and Crozes-Hermitage and others.
Southern Rhone.
Ging to the other end of the spectrum, or at least Rhone Valley is the southern region. In contrast, valleys are broader and not as steep. Likewise, the Mediterranean warmth and the cold north winds combine to create a different climate for growing grapes. This area is the home of Grenache. It was home o the Pope at one time. Coincidence?
Most popular red wine grapes: Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and Syrah.
Red wine appellations. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueryras, Vinsobres, Beaumes de Venise, Côte de Ventoux and others.
Most popular white wine grapes: Grenache Blanc, Garnacha Blanca, and Roussanne.
White wine appellations. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Lirac, Côtes du Rhône, and others.
Languedoc-Roussillon.
Another central French wine-producing region is Languedoc-Roussillon. It stretches from the Rhône valley near Marseilles in the east to the Spanish border in the south-west. This area is where the Greeks first came ashore and began producing wine—what a history.
The wines of this region have an outstanding reputation up until 1800. Then, with the growing Industrial age, there is a demand for cheap wine for the workers. They replace the quality vines with secondary quality vines that produce more grapes.
In the late 1800s, the phylloxera infestation decimates the vines. Replacement vines do not do well in the Mediterranean soil.
French Socialism is born in 1907 when winemakers protest through the streets about cheap wine imports from Africa.
The imports are necessary because the workers are not producing enough wine for the demand. Also, it is a bland wine, and African wine helps fortify the local wine.
Two World Wars keep the demand for cheap wine at a high.
Then, by the late 1970s, the French people are turning away from cheap wines. For this reason, Languedoc-Roussillon suddenly has a surplus on their hands.
As a result of the sagging cheap wine market, several wineries start planting quality wines to replace the bad.
Since 1981, there are 13 new A.O.C. appellations in Languedoc-Roussillon. Of these, three are for sparkling wines. Again, some of these have sub-regions.
There are more than 10 AOC wines with a Grands Vins du Languedoc classification. Seven more have a Crus du Languedoc classification. With this in mind, keep an eye on Cabardes, Saint-Loup, Montpellier and re-invented Fitou.
Red
Most popular red wine grapes: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Carignan.
Red wine appellations.
White
Most popular white wine grapes: Chardonnay, Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul.
White wine appellations. Limoux AOC, Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois, and others.
Sparkling
Most popular sparkling wine grapes: Mauzac, Chardonnay, Chenin blanc.
Sparkling wine appellations. Limoux AOC, Crémant de Limoux, and others.
Some of the wines are getting rather expensive. By all means, they are delicious and deserve to be. Fortunately, new wineries are pushing to be better, so there is still affordable, good wine in this region.
Provence.
It is sitting in France’s south-east corner and close to the Mediterranean. In general, its warm climate makes it best for producing rosé and red wines. Similarly, like its neighbor, the Languedoc-Roussillon region, it is a small secret to the rest of the wine world.
This area is one of the first in France to receive cultivating by the arriving Greeks. There are more than eight appellations. Notably, its roses are making the wine world talk.
Most popular red wine grapes: Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan, and Cinsault.
Red wine appellations. Palette, Bellet, Bandol, and Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence and others.
Most popular rose (white) wine grapes: Rolle, Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, and Marsanne.
Rosé wine appellations. Bandol and Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence are producing award-winning roses.
South West France.
The Sud-Ouest (South West) sits, where else, in the south-west corner of France between Bordeaux and Languedoc-Roussillon. Part secret garden, part wild west, and few know about it. This lack of publicity is somewhat hard to believe, as it is the fifth-largest wine region in France. However, it has a small population.
It is a collection of several wine-producing areas. They do not share a river, valley, or grow the same type of grapes. So how do you describe something like the South West Region?
For “simple, “let’s break it up into four sub-regions.
Bergerac and the Upper Dordogne River.
It is further inland, therefore warmer than Bordeaux to the west, but in other ways, it is very similar. Both are producing reds, whites, rosés, and sweet dessert wines. There are more than ten appellations.
Most popular red wine grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.
Red wine appellations. Côtes de Bergerac AOC, Pécharmant AOC, and others.
Most popular white wine grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Ugni Blanc, and Semillon.
White wine appellations. Montravel AOC, Haut-Montravel AOC, Côtes de Montravel AOC, and others.
White Dessert Wine appellations. Monbazillac AOC, Rosette AOC, Saussignac AOC and others.
Cahors and the Upper Garonne River.
Similar to the Bergerac region, here you may find small batches of grapes almost extinct. There are more than five appellations.
Most popular red wine grapes: Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.
Red wine appellations. Cahors, Côte -du-Brulhois, Fronton, and others.
Most popular white wine grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Ugni Blanc, and Semillon.
White wine appellations.Gaillac Premiéres Côtes AOP and others.
White Dessert Wine appellations. Gaillac Primeur and others.
Gascony and the Pyrénées.
The south-west triangle of France has the Atlantic Ocean as one side, the Spanish border as the second. The third varies depending on who you ask. Within this triangle, you have a patchwork of wine regions. There are more than ten appellations.
Bearn. – Significant grapes they grow include Tannat and Raffiat de Moncade. As a result, the area produces Rich reds, sassy rosés, and crisp whites.
Irouléguy – This is in the Basque area of France. You can find dry whites, earthy reds, and refreshing rose.
Jurançon – Major grapes include Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng. For this reason, the area produces sweet and dry white wines.
Madiran, – Major grapes include Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon. The area produces rich reds with intense tannins.
Pacherenc du Vic Bilh. – The main grapes include the Petit Manseng. Therefore, the area produces dry and sweet white wines.
Saint-Mont. – Significant grapes include Tannat and Cabernet Franc. As a result of these hearty grapes, the area produces full-bodied reds.
Aveyron.
The cities of Toulouse, Montpellier, and Clermont-Ferrand loosely form a triangle around the fourth region. There are more than five appellations.
Côtes de Millau. The main grapes include Gamay and Sarah. The area produces lite reds and a few white wines.
Marcillac. Significant grapes include Fer, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The area produces unique red wines.
Estaing. Significant grapes include Gamay, Iron, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The area produces rosé and red wines.
Vins d’Entraygues et du Fel. Main grapes include Mansoi, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The area produces rosé and red wines.
Alsace.
Alsace is in the east near the border with Germany. Also, over the years, it has been part of Germany. Therefore, you will see many similar grapes and wines to those of Germany. It is primarily producing white wines, with a few red, rosé, and sparkling wines.
Alsace has three A.O.C. designations. Almost all Alsace wines are appellation wines.
- Alsace Grands Crus.
- Crémant d’Alsace.
- Alsace.
Most popular Grapes: Riesling, Gewürztraminer Auxxeroisand Pinot Gris.
Most popular wines: Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris.
Beaujolais.
Beaujolais is in east-central France along the Saone River, south of the Burgundy region. It is primarily producing red wines, with a few white and sparkling rosé as well.
There are more than ten A.O.C. designations, including Morgon, Fleurie, and Brouilly.
Most popular Grape: Gamay Noir.
Its most famous wine: Beaujolais.
Petite Wine Regions.
Jura.
Jura sits in a small area in the mountains between Burgundy and Switzerland. As a result of the cold climate, they focus more on white wines. There are more than five appellations. Significant grapes include Poulsard, Trousseau, and White Savagnin.
They produce vin jaune, Vin de Paille, and other wines.
Savoie.
Savoy (Savoie) is a small region in the Alps near Lake Geneva.
There are more than three appellations. Main grapes include Jacquere, Altesse, and Roussanne.
They produce white, rosé, red, sparkling, and other wines.
Corsica.
Corsica is an island in the Mediterranean. There are more than eight A.O.C. regions, and an island-wide Vin de pays designation. Still, very few wines leave the island.
Major grapes include Nielluccio, Sciacarello, Grenache, Cinsaut, Vermentino and Carignan.
They produce full-body by light reds, subtle roses, dry whites, and other wines.
Left the Party.
The following regions are no longer an official wine region. However, several are showing signs of a renaissance in their wine programs. On the negative side, this may mean more rules and levels. (L.O.L.).
Brittany.
Normandy.
Picardy.
So, What to Take Away?
First, there are over 200 indigenous varieties of wine grapes growing in France. Keep in mind, many of these do not grow anywhere else. Search for them, once in a life.
Another critical point, there are over 27,000 wineries (on the register) in France. In other words, too many to remember.
Even if you focus on only one region, it’s enough to drive you to drink wine.
Remember, wine is as much a “part” of France as the Eiffel Tower. They take it very seriously.
I usually go with the house (local) wine, which pairs well with the local food. However, waiters in France know something about wine.
In the event you are doing several courses, have the waiter pair them with wines.
Likewise, a good bartender is another excellent resource. Their knowledge can be pivotal between an OK wine tasting and a wine experience.
In short, keep it simple, keep it calm, and enjoy the wine.
à Votre santé!