THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
In the middle of “Spring Break” is the time you start thinking about summer plans.
With Europe “tentatively” opening up by June, some people let their minds wander to the Mediterranian. And some consider a walk to the end of the driveway highly risky.
I hope you are somewhere comfortably inbetween.
Tres Magnifique, the French Riviera.
The Riviera? Even if we can travel, who can afford that? That’s only for the super-rich and nobility.
Are you sure?
In France, they call it the Cote d’Azur, the Azur Coast. That is misleading as it is not Azur. There are at least 70 shades of blue present. And greens, reds, yellows, oranges…
You can see it in the sky, the sea, and the Impressionist painters’ brush strokes. And you will find just about every other color as well. Welcome to the French Riviera.
The French Riviera generally refers to the French coast between St Tropez and the border with Italy. Hiding next to the eastern edge of the French Riviera is the 5-mile wide Principality of Monaco. It consists of four districts, the best known being Monte Carlo.
Life’s a Beach.
With around 70 miles of coastline, you would think that going to the beach would be the reason to visit.
However, many of the beaches in this area would not rate highly by American standards.
Most of the beaches between Monte Carlo and Cannes contain stones and little to no sand. Also, it is not the white sand you find on Florida beaches.
Summary: You will probably not fly 8+ hours from N. America to go to the beach here. If you do, check out the private beach clubs that include chair rental, refreshments, and restrooms.
L’art de la Cote d’Azur
For the art lover, The French Riviera is a semi-pilgrimage destination. The artists come here for the light, many doing some of their best works during their stay.
It begins in the late 1880s when Vincent Van Gogh moves to Arles. Paul Gaughin would visit him and paint. (Not officially the French Riviera, but in the south of France north of Marseille).
An hour southeast is Aix-en-Provence, the birthplace of Paul Cézanne and the location of his studio. He is more of a post-impressionistic artist.
At the same time that Van Gogh is settling in Arles, the Impressionist Claude Monet travels to St Tropez. He likes what he sees and paints. He did several works there before returning to Paris.
Soon, Paul Signac takes up residence in St Tropez, replacing him.
Further along the Cote d’Azur, you have Pierre-Auguste Renoir moving to Cagnes-sur-Mer in 1907. He will spend the last few years of his life here.
Nearby in Grasse, the American-born artist Mary Cassatt lives and entertains her mentor Edgar Degas and Renoir. And there were many others.
French Riviera Impressionists.
Unfortunately, much of their art ends up in Paris and museums around the world.
One of the few places to see Impressionistic paintings on the French Riviera is at the Musee Renoir on his home’s grounds. Here, there are a few of his final works. You visit here to channel his spirit, not to admire his work.
The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nice has a small collection of lesser-known Impressionists, along with sculptures and contemporary art. The museum, 20-minute walk west of the Negresco Hotel, is in a mansion dating from 1878. Some of the architecture and decorations are equally interesting to see.
Send in the Post-Impressionists.
The next wave of artists hits the Cote D-Azur around 1917 when Henri Matisse moves to Nice. The poet, playwright, film director, painter, and ceramicist Jean Cocteau visits Villefranche in 1925 for vacation and doesn’t leave.
Pablo Picasso moves into the Chateau Grimaldi in Antibes in 1946, using it as a studio. His friend artist Georges Braque visits often.
1948 the Russian-born Marc Chagall comes to St. Jean Cap Ferrat, where he finds inspiration from the Azur light.
Although he did not move to the south of France, the Spanish artist Joan Miró has an impressive installation in the Maeght Foundation garden near Saint-Paul-de-Vence, featuring several pieces for this garden.
You can find the works of these artists all across the south of France. The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MAMAC) in Nice has several of their pieces.
If you are looking for a specific artist, there is good news. Several museums dedicated to a particular artist exist.
Jean Cocteau – Menton France.
In Menton, just before the Italian border, you have the Musee Jean Cocteau Collection. (Website in French only) It includes drawings, paintings, lithographs, tapestries, pottery, and other mementos from his time in Menton. It is closed on Tuesdays.
The Musee-du-Bastion is a five-minute walk from the museum along the waterfront. The former blockhouse in the city wall dates to 1619. Cocteau did many mosaics here. Your museum ticket includes admission to the Bastion. It also closes on Tuesdays.
Pablo Picasso – Antibes France.
The Musée Picasso (Website in French only) previously the Château Grimaldi, a family famous for their support of artists, in Antibes. They offer the artist this space as a studio. While he is there, he produces several of the pieces on display there today. Musee is not open on Mondays.
Of Particular Interest: After years of legal battles, the only child of Picasso and his second wife, Jacqueline, are planning to open the Musée Jacqueline et Pablo Picasso near Aix-en-Provence. The museum is hoping to debut in 2021. Although it is not really in the Riviera region, it will be an essential destination for Picasso fans. She will be displaying over 1000 pieces, many new to the public.
Marc Chagall – Nice.
The Musée Marc Chagall houses over 800 works by the artist, especially his works inspired by religion. It is the most massive public display of his work in the world. Paintings, as well as stained glass, are on display. It is closed on Tuesdays.
Henri Matisse.
Housing one of the artist’s most extensive collections, the Musée Matisse is in a former mansion dating from 1670. Matisse was living in Nice for more than 45 years. The museum exhibits his works, as well as personal belongings. The museum is open every day except Tuesdays.
For Matisse fans, on the Rue Saint-François de Paule, is the Hotel Beau Rivage-Nice. Its interiors have seen many changes since Matisse checked in in 1916. It was his first home in Nice for two years. Unfortunately, he would not recognize the bar. Here he would drink with friends F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Chekov, Picasso, and others during the roaring 20s. But maybe there is still some of their magic in the air.
French Riviera Museums of a Different Color.
For those explorers who only need a small taste of modern art, check out some other museums.
The Palais Lascaris, near the Old Town, has an impressive array of antique musical instruments.
Perhaps the loveliest home and setting is the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Béatrice de Rothschild (THAT Rothschild family) fell in love with the Cote D’Azur in 1905. She builds the villa and fills the salons with porcelain, furniture, and paintings by Europe’s Great Masters. You can tour the gardens, lower salons, or Beatrice’s rooms. There is a small cafe that serves tea and light lunches.
Sightseeing on the French Riviera.
Although the Greeks, then Romans were here, there is not a lot of evidence.
A few exceptions include the Musee D’Archeologie in Nice. The grounds include the Roman archeological site of Cemenelum, dating from 14 BC.
The Trophy of Auguste in La Turbie is part of a tribute built for Caesar’s nephew Octavius. He will later become Emperor Augustus and bring on the Pax Romana (Roman Peace).
16th-century citadels are visible in several locations as well as 17th and 18th-century architecture.
Hilltop towns such as St. Paul de Vence, Gourdon, and Eze, are pleasant to stroll. And you get a free step master workout at the same time.
Or stroll around Nice and its Old Town.
La cuisine de French Riviera.
Near Nice, there are more than ten wineries and several closer to St Tropez. The specialty is Rose wine. Before you turn up a wine snob nose to this, TRY ONE. This wine is not your father’s Rose. Many are dry. Try starting at a wine bar in the Old Town of Nice. Caves Pierre Bianchi & Cie wine shop has been dealing in wine since 1860. Stop in for a tasting or at least for a look. Then plan a visit to the wineries you liked.
Try everything with Nicoise or Provencale in its name. And don’t forget Nice’s hometown dish, Ratatouille.
But I Can’t Afford the French Riviera.
Must you fly to Monte Carlo in a helicopter?
Will you only stay at the Hotel de Paris, where rooms begin at 500 Euro?
Is an Italian sports car the only rental car for you?
Then probably, the Riviera will tax your purse strings.
And if it doesn’t crimp your style, invite me for lunch.
I have been fortunate to stay in hotels in Monte Carlo and Cannes as a guest of the hotel.
When it comes to travel on my budget, I have to curb my style, or do I?
The Fairmont Monte Carlo has rooms starting under 300 US dollars in the offseason.
Yes, it is still more than “Tex and Edna’s Dew Drop Inn,” six miles east of junction 52. However, the location between the Monte Carlo Casino and the Mediterranian Sea may warrant a little higher price.
At least for one night.
In Nice in October, you can find 4-star hotels on the sea for around $200 US dollars. A few blocks from the sea and the 4-star hotels can be under $150 a night.
Dining
In Europe, many hotel rates include breakfast in the price.
If you require a French Riviera Michelin-star restaurant for every meal, cash in the kid’s inheritance. Or do it once as an experience.
If you are happy to dine with locals on fresh produce from the market, expect to pay less.
Many places offer Prix-fix three-course dinners for under 25 Euros per person.
When was the last time you went out for a three-course French dinner in America for under $30? Le McDonald’s Big Mac meal is NOT French.
Entertainment
For 20€, you can get a week-long pass good at almost every museum in Nice. These include the Matisse, Archaeological, Museum of Modern Art, Palais Lascaris, Beaux-Arts, and more.
The Chagall Museum is a national museum, so it is not on the local museum pass.
Transportation
Commuter trains run all along the coast from Cannes to Monte Carlo and beyond. Just be sure you know the time of the last one home.
Nice has buses and trams that connect with sites further away.
I am not a fan of rental cars. It is not the driving, but the parking. There is parking if you can read the signs in French while driving roads wide enough for chariots.
Tour companies and car services are also available and to me worth every Euro. But they are “ne sont pas bon marché.” (not inexpensive.)
An affordable Cote d’Azur, Who Knew?
The French Riviera is affordable.
Not during the Monte Carlo Grand Prix or Cannes Film Festival, but the other ten months. August is the peak, while April and October are shoulder seasons.
What about winter? It must be very inexpensive. Au contraire!
The mild winters are the reason northern Europeans have been coming since the days of Victoria. The opera is in season, and in December, you have Joyeux Noel.
There are less expensive periods, so do not count it out in winter.
The Cote d’Azur awaits you.
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“What would you do along the French Riviera?”
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.
Beaches, art museums, fantastic food – what’s not to love about the French Riviera? Hard to believe it’s affordable for the average traveler, but you’ve convinced me it is! Bon Voyage!
Think you have reopened my eyes to visiting France again. I love some of the French painters, definitely would go to a market for gorgeous peonies, and spend more time on the Côte d’Azur!