Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT
SHOULD SEE TOURS.
AMBOISE
The term Loire Valley is somewhat misleading. It seems it would be either side of the Loire river from its start to delta.
Depending on who you ask, it doesn’t. The river begins in Southern France, about 40 miles west of where the Rhone and La Drome rivers meet.
It then twists and turns for more than 600 miles before reaching the Atlantic Ocean at Saint-Nazaire.
Many refer to the Loire Valley as the area between Nevers in the east and Nantes to the west.
In defining its World Heritage Site of the Loire Valley, UNESCO limits it from Sully-sur-Loire to Chalonnes. This is approximately 185 miles of river and, for our purposes, still a lot to cover.
So to make it easier, I am breaking this area into three sections.
The eastern Loire Valley will use Orleans as the base. This will include Blois and Sully-sur-Mer.
The western Loire Valley will use Angers, as a base. This will include Samur, and Chinon.
This section (Central) will use Tours as the base. It includes Amboise,
Ancient
Its history goes back to the days of the Celts (or Gauls to the Romans). The Carnutes are a powerful tribe living in today’s areas of Chartres, Orléans, and Blois. This is in the middle and largest region of Gaul, Gallia Celtica. It reaches from France’s Atlantic coast and includes today’s Luxembourg and Switzerland. There is evidence of their presence dating to the third century B.C.
After the conquest by Julius Caesar circa 52 B.C., the Romans begin to develop the area. They focus along rivers, which they use for transportation and communication.
Ceasar’s troops destroy Cenabum, a stronghold of the Carnutes. In its place, they build Civitas Aurelianorum and transplant Aurelian citizens from Rome. Over the years, the name evolves into Orléans.
During the reign of Emperor Augustus (circa 27 B.C.), the city begins to develop. The Romans also enlarge and strengthen Tours (Caesarodunum), Le Mans (Noviodunum), Angers (Juliomagus), Chartres (Autricum), and several more.
They build a road system connecting the towns and Lyon (Lugdunum), the largest Roman city. The Loire Valley region thrives under the Roman Republic and later empire.
Not so Ancient Tours.
The area has always been important as a crossing point of the Loire.
It is not until the first century A.D. that there are signs of long-term occupation. The Romans establish the city of Caesarodunum (hill of Caesar). In the 4th century, they began using the original Gallic name, Turones, which later becomes Tours.
By 388, Tours is the largest city of the Roman province of Lugdunum. It rules over the Loire Valley, Brittany, and Maine.
In 371 A.D., Martin becomes the bishop of Tours. Legend says he would give his cloak to a naked beggar in Amiens. He becomes an important figure in the Christian church of medieval Western Europe. The church adds Tours to the route of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.
By 284 A.D., the Roman Empire was showing signs of strain. The new Emperor Diocletian commands a reorganization and appoints his fellow officer Maximian as a co-emperor. He later divides the empire into four sections and appoints two Caesars (Galerius and Constantius.)
In 442, the Roman commander hires the Alans, a mercenary tribe originally from Iran, to help bring order to Gaul. Not only are the locals rebelling, but attacks by the Visigoths are increasing. The Alans do the job and keep part of the area for themselves as payment.
When the Huns under Attila attack in 451 and the Goths in 463, the Alans defeat both. The Franks attack circa 466 and also lose. Around 502 A.D. Clovis, now kind of the Franks, attacks and loses. However, the Alans, wanting cordial relations with the Christian Franks over the Visigoths and their Arian theology, strike an accord. Clovis becomes the king of the area of Gaul between the Seine and the Loire. The Alan soldiers integrate into the Merovingian military.
Franks For the Memories
In 476 A.D., there is the Fall of the Western Roman Empire. Clovis takes over Northern Gaul in the vacuum that follows the fall. By the early 500’s all of the Frankish tribes are under a single king instead of many tribes. Clovis also ensures that the kingship will pass down to his heirs. He is the founder of the Merovingian dynasty, who will rule the Frankish kingdom until 751. Their domain includes most of modern-day France, Germany, Switzerland, and Austria.
Remember how Clovis arranges for only his kin to be heirs? His relatives will put the fun in dysfunctional as they cheat, swindle, and kill each other for power.
Clovis is also a fan of Saint Martin and finances the monastery’s rebuilding after a 561 fire. Gregory of Tours, the bishop, oversees the rebuilding.
The kingdom would divide into four divisions, Austrasia, Neustria, Burgundy, and Aquitaine. And then sometimes, it would come together into one before separating again.
Circa 732, a large army of Muslim horsemen from Al-Andalus (Spain) advance deep into France. Charles Martel’s infantry stops them when they are 50 miles south of town in the Battle of Tours. This begins a retreat of the Muslims back to Spain.
While the Franks Play
While the Merovingian dynasty members are busy undermining each other, the mice are playing. Charles Martel asserts himself and his relatives into the mayor of the palace’s position in their kingdoms. Soon they are the de facto rulers of the Franks and the real power behind the Merovingian throne. With the support of the Papacy, in 751, they overthrow the Merovingian kings. The Carolingian dynasty will rule most of France for the next 500 years.
The Carolingian King Pepin begins an ambitious program to strengthen the kingdom. They reform the legislation so the Mayor of the Palace no longer has as much power. Then he continues to support the reforms of Boniface. Moreover, Pepin secures the Pope’s position by defending him from the Lombards in Italy. Also, he acquires land for the Papal States.
Pepin dies in 768, and his sons take over. Their names are Carloman and Charlemagne.
Carloman receives Burgundy, which includes Orleans at that time.
Carloman dies of mysterious causes three years later. Funny how French history seems to have A LOT of mysterious deaths… His brother becomes the sole ruler.
Charlemagne brings a cultural revival to the area and appoints Théodulf as the first bishop of Orleans.
Circa 845, Vikings, under chief Hasting (Haesten), began heading up the Loire from the sea. Tours can repel them. Two years later, the city is not so lucky. The Vikings also sack Angers and the abbey of Marmoutier.
Normans, Is That You?
The Franks’ empire, now Carolingians, was ruling over most, but not all of today’s France. In the upper northeast corner was a band of some of the roughest bullies on the block, Normandy’s Normans. This group was ragtag of Franks, Gallo-Romans, and Norse Viking settlers, and they wanted land.
Circa 911, the Normans sign the Treaty of Saint-Clair-sur-Epte, with King Charles III, the Carolingian king. The Normans get lands along the Seine, defend against other Vikings, and convert to Christianity.
The Norman dukes create the most powerful duchies in Western Europe. They help place Hugh Capet (a non-Carolingian) on the French throne.
During the Middle Ages, Tours is two separate towns. The original city includes the cathedral and castle of Tours, the seat of the Counts of Tours. (later Counts of Anjou) and of the King of France.
A second town begins springing up around the Abbey of Saint Martin to the west. When the city walls separate the area (circa 918), they begin calling it “Châteauneuf,” a new castle. The area between Saint Martin and the river becomes the economic center. The two towns finally grow together by the 14th century.
Tours becomes the capital of the county of Touraine, an area in dispute between Blois and Anjou’s counts. The Counts of Anjou will eventually claim the area.
Civil Unrest
Circa 1285, Philip IV becomes King of France. And with him come changes for the entire country. He wants to make the feudal country into a centralized state, giving himself more power. Philip successfully challenges the Pope’s power in France.
He expels France’s Jews circa 1306. He does the same to the Italian Lombards” (bankers) five years later.
Unhappiness is smoldering just below the surface.
The Hundred Years War (1337 – 1453)
By 1400 A.D., King Henry V of England is in France, winning a series of decisive victories. By 1422, the English and their allies control most of northern France, including Paris and Reims.
When the French king dies, his son Charles cannot have his coronation at Reims and remains uncrowned. The British proclaim 2-year-old King Henry VI, son of Henry V and Catherine of Valois, as king of France.
The people of France are feeling down. Things are not looking like they will get any better.
And then a young girl starts hearing things.
Jacques d’Arc’s Daughter
Jeanne (Joan) d’Arc receives voices and visions from the Archangel Michael, Saint Margaret, and Saint Catherine of Alexandria in 1428. They instruct her to support Charles, The Dauphin of France, in getting back his father’s crown. And to recover France from English domination. Charles sends Joan to the Siege of Orléans as part of a relief army. The British surround Orleans, a symbolic stronghold to the Dukes of Orléans. They support the claims of the disinherited and banished Charles to the French throne. If the British can seize the city, it will indicate they rule all of France.
A French legend says a woman will deliver them from the English, and they believe Joan is that woman. Civilians start following her commands, much to the disdain of the army. But her strikes are successful, and with each new one, more and more French believe in her. In nine days, the British retreat. It is a massive win for France, especially mentally.
She wins back several smaller towns along the Seine, bringing it back into French control.
She then marches on Reims, where the Dauphin has his coronation as Charles VII of France. This event is the turning of the tide.
She Can’t Get a Signal.
She has a few more minor wins but is unsuccessful during the siege to recapture Paris. Burgundian troops capture her the following year in an ambush. They sell her to the English at their headquarters in Rouen. After the mockery of a trial with only pro-English and Burgundian clerics, they find her guilty of heresy.
They burn her alive, tied to a stake, in the middle of Rouen’s Vieux-Marché during May of 1431. The English burn her two more times, so no relics remain. They then dump her ashes in the river.
Note – A new trial finds her innocent 25 years later. Pope Benedict XV canonizes her as a saint of the Roman Catholic Church In 920.
Tours Beyond the War.
The war finally ends circa 1453. For the next 400 years, Tour’s history is much like that of the rest of France. It regains its prosperity quickly.
Circa 1460, King Louis XI moves into the castle of Montils (today Castle of Plessis) in Tours and makes the city the capital of France. For the next 100 years, Tours will become home to private mansions and castles belonging to the Crown’s court and nobility.
King Louis XI contributes to the prosperity of the valley by revitalizing the agriculture industry. He will also introduce the silk industry to Tours, which survives to this day.
France was not immune to the Black Death, responsible for reducing the population up to 50% by 1351.
The church’s inability to save its followers allows the kings to separate the church from the state.
Circa 1460, King Louis XI rebuilds the Loire Valley’s Château de Langeais in late medieval architecture.
Soon after, Jean de Chambes, senior counselor to the king, rebuilds Chateau de Montsoreau in the Flamboyant Gothic style.
Circa 1477, the town of Angers builds France’s first printing press.
King Charles imports Italian architects and artisans to turn the chateau he “borrowed” from Louis d’Amboise into an Italianate palace.
The House of Valois runs out of male heirs circa 1498. Louis XII, of the Valois-Orleans family, accends to the throne of France. The House of Valois-Angoulême will gain the throne in 1515 when Louis dies without an heir.
Welcome to the Renaissance.
By 1495, the Italian Renaissance reaches France.
French kings and nobility import Italian art and sometimes their artists.
They begin building ornate palaces (plural) at great expense.
They fill their courts with great writers, painters, and musicians.
The French Renaissance really gets a kick circa 1533. Henry II of France marries Caterina de’ Medici from THAT Florence family. Despite her un-Christian role in the religious wars, she did do some good. She brings arts, sciences, and music to the French court. She even introduces the origins of ballet from her native Florence.
Loire Valley and the Reformation.
By the 1530s, the Reformation ideas reach the Catholic Loire valley, and some people become Protestants.
King Francis I takes a stance against the Protestants after they denounce Catholic doctrine. It leads to public burnings at the stake for the heretics.
Henry II becomes king on his father’s death circa 1547. He is even more anti-Protestant. He restrains them from worshiping, assembling, or even discussing religion in public.
But the Protestants (Calvinists) continue to grow. Possibly half of the nobility converts, and there are more than 1000 Protestant churches in France.
With the accidental death of Henry II in 1559, his son, 15-year-old Francis II, becomes king. The year before, Francis II marries Mary, Queen of Scots, Claude’s granddaughter, Duke of Guise.
To protect the House of Valois-Angoulême, Catherine steps in as Regent to her young son.
The House of Guise, claiming descent from Charlemagne, makes a play for the crown. They make themselves champions of the Catholic faith.
And Another House.
Enter Louis de Bourbon, founder of the Condé branch of the House of Bourbon, a cadet of the Capetian dynasty. He sides with the Protestants.
The Guise branch wants to eradicate the Bourbon branch, the legal successors, to France’s throne. The Bourbon branch wants the throne back from Catherine’s House of Valois-Angoulême. Catherine is not giving up anything. Where could this lead?
Religious wars soon follow.
By 1562, Orleans is a protestant stronghold. The Duke of Guise leads Catholic troops to recapture Orleans. The duke’s assassination leads to the Edict of Amboise, establishing peace between the two communities.
The edict allows the protestants (Huguenots) religious privileges and freedoms in the privacy of their homes.
A 1572 wedding between Margaret, Catholic King Charles IX’s sister, and Protestant Henry of Navarre does nothing to ease tensions. Or, it never has time to.
A few days later, the king, with his mother Catherine’s pushing, begins a bloodbath against the Protestants. The St. Bartholomew’s Day massacre targets prominent Huguenots in Paris for the wedding. It goes on for weeks, crippling the Huguenots. The final death toll throughout France ranges from 3000 – 5000 people.
The Massacre does not reach Tours. Instead, the Alderman imprisons the Protestants, so the Catholics cannot kill them.
The Edict of Nantes.
Finally, in 1598, Henry of Navarre, heir to the French throne, converts to Catholicism and becomes King Henry IV of France. He issues the Edict of Nantes, which grants Huguenots rights and freedoms.
Although the outright fighting ends, Catholic hostility will continue. The final Protestant death toll in France is between 5,000 and 30,000 during the 38 years of war.
Tours In The 1700s
The 1700s is a time of discovery and exploration for France. Traveling from French outposts in Eastern Canada, they travel the River Colbert’s length to its delta. They claim the lands on either side for France.
Later, the French will call the river by the local Algonquin or Ojibwe tribes name, Misi-ziibi (Great River).
Realizing the importance of the river, they set up their capital near its mouth in 1718. They name it la Nouvelle-Orléans in honor of Philippe II, the Duke of Orleans, and King Louis XV’s regent.
Through marriage alliances, Philippes II’s great-grandson Louise Philippe II is probably the richest man in the world by 1789.
In that year, he would use his riches to support the Revolution of 1789 in favor of a constitutional monarchy. He would vote for the death of King Louis XVI, his cousin.
During the Reign of Terror, they find him suspicious of treason and put him on the guillotine in 1793.
His son Louis Philippe I goes into exile for 21 years. During this time, he marries Maria Amalia of the House of Bourbon-Two Sicilies.
The French Revolution breaks out in 1789 to replace the Ancien Regime with a constitutional monarchy.
A Constitutional Monarchy (1789 – 1792)
Starting with the bastille storming on July 14, it was obvious the populous was at a boiling point.
King Louis XVI appoints the Marquis de Lafayette commander of the National Guard.
With help from Thomas Jefferson, Lafayette draft a constitution, the Declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen. It borrows from Jefferson’s Declaration of Independence.
King Louis accepts the constitution and commits to a constitutional monarchy. He is now King of the French.
Unfortunately, Louis cannot give up control.
By April 1792, France is declaring war on Austria and Prussia. The Prussian commander threatens Paris with “unforgettable vengeance” if it opposes any steps to restore the monarchy’s power.
In August, the Parisian National Guard and the federes attack the Tuileries Royal Palace. The king and his family took refuge while a hurriedly-assembled group of deputies votes to “temporarily relieve the king.”
First Republic (1792–1795)
In the late summer, under much intimidation and cheating, they hold elections for a National Convention. With the war against Prussia going well, the Convention abolishes the monarchy and establishes the French First Republic.
By January of 1793, they condemn Louis to death and lop his head off in the Place de la Concorde.
Conservative groups around Europe call for the removal of this revolutionary Convention. France declares war on the Dutch Republic and Britain. The kingdoms of Spain, Portugal, Tuscany, and Naples rally around England, and we have the First Coalition War.
The Convention thinks the population will support them. Higher taxes and a lack of food has the opposite effect. Their popularity plummets. The people begin revolting.
To keep the people in their place, the Convention starts the Reign of Terror. This period includes massacres and public executions to scare the revolutionaries. Citing anticlerical sentiment, treason, or other charges against authorities, the Committee of Public Safety rounds people up.
This quickly leads to anyone that might oppose them. Marie Antoinette, Louise Philippe II, Duke of Orleans, and Robespierre are some of the 16,600 executions. Another 40,000 die in jail.
By 1795, the wars with Prussia, the Dutch, and Spain come to an end.
A committee drafts a new constitution, establishing a legislature with two houses. Hopefully, this will slow down the swings in power like before.
They call it the Directory.
1795–1799.
The Directory is a mix of Republican, broadly centrist, and Royalists. Many of the centrists believe the restoration of Louis XVIII will end the war with Britain and Austria. An election in 1797 shows a significant gain for the Royalists.
The Republicans fearing a return to the monarchy, stage a coup forcing the Council to cancel the election results. They deport sixty-three of the stronger royalists and pass new laws limiting emigres, Royalists, and ultra-Jacobins.
When France invades Egypt circa 1798, the Second Coalition War begins between France and much of Europe.
The Directors rely on the army to enforce decrees and collect revenue from the conquered territories. With no safeguards in place, generals like Bonaparte and Joubert become political players. The system is notorious for its corruption.
A 1799 coup replaces the five Directors of the Directory with five new leaders, the French Consulate.
The 1800s
The French Revolution fizzles out while the world watches Bonaparte.
After his campaign in Egypt, Napoleon heads toward Switzerland on his way to Austria and Italy. He reoccupies Italy
By 1802, France and England sign the Treaty of Amiens, ending the revolutionary war.
Napoleon faces several assassination attempts by the royalists and Jacobins. Using these attempts as an excuse, he creates an imperial system, similar to the one used by the Romans.
He wants his family in important positions with the current constitution that a Royalist (Bourbon) restoration would not be possible.
Next, he runs for Emperor of the French, receiving an overwhelming vote from the people. The Pope officiates the 1804 coronation.
England breaks the peace agreement, and by 1805 Russia allies with them against France. The War of the Third Coalition is on.
Napoleon fights most of Europe until the tide turns circa 1814. The British will spare France if they depose Napoleon. They put him in exile on the island of Elba.
Louis XVIII, the Count of Provence and brother of King Louis XVI, returns from exile and takes the throne.
Napoleon escapes from Elba a year later and returns to France. He restores the French Empire, and Louis XVIII goes back into hiding.
When Bonaparte loses at Waterloo, the British place him on St Helena island, with little chance of escape.
Napoleon, like many conquerors, finally ran out of support.
Tours After Bonaparte
Louis XVIII returns to the French throne and stays until 1824.
Upon his death, his youngest brother Charles X takes the throne. He is unpopular from the start due to his belief in rule by divine right and opposition to civil liberties.
Charles attempts to unify the House of Bourbon by granting the House of Orleans privileges of Royal Highness. His brother Louis did not offer this due to their father’s role in Louis XVI’s death.
By 1830 the people and the government are calling for his abdication.
Members of the Chamber decide that Louis Philippe d’Orléans should take the throne from King Charles.
In August, Charles abdicates, and Louis Philippe I proclaims himself the King of the French.
His reign starts well as he is not pretentious as earlier kings. However, over time his increasingly conservative and monarchical style of governing irritates the politicians. The deteriorating conditions of the working class and the widening gap in income irritate the people.
The 1848 Revolution sees the abdication of Louis Philippe and the creation of the French Second Republic.
French Second Republic
The Republic lasts from the 1848 Revolution to an 1851 coup. The people elect Prince Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte by a landslide.
With the First Republic’s motto, Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite, they write a new constitution helping everyone. It is immediately unpopular. Prince Louis pretends to get along with everyone without actually committing to anything. Then, when the time is right, he dissolves the Chamber and arrests all the party leaders. He summons a new assembly that prolongs his term of office to ten years.
Second French Empire
The Imperial regime of Napoleon III will last from 1852 to 1870.
On the homefront, there were good times with Napoleon promoting French business and exports.
The greatest achievement is a grand railway network using Paris as the central hub. Tours becomes an important hub in the system. This saves the city’s economy.
French Third Republic
Circa 1870, the Franco-Prussian War breaks out between France and Prussia. Today Prussia is part of Belgium, the Czech Republic, Denmark, Germany, Lithuania, Poland, and Russia.
The government fails, and they set up the French Third Republic as a provisional government. It works better than the last one and becomes the permanent form of government of France.
The Third Republic will stand until 1940.
To read more about the history of France, click the orange link.
The World Wars
In the First World War, The Loire Valley is far enough behind the lines it does not receive much damage.
Using arrival ports along the Atlantic, The American Expeditionary Force of 25,000 American soldiers sets up its headquarters in Tours. They set up textile factories, repair shops for motorized equipment, an army post office, and a military hospital at Augustins. American engineers lay an additional 1000 miles of railroad from the ports and through Tours, an important supply terminus.
Early in WWII, Tours suffers massive destruction. German incendiary bombs set the city center on fire. In an attempt to slow the German advance, local troops bomb the bridge. Unfortunately, they destroy the water line to the city center. Without water, the area burns to the ground. Tours briefly serves as the temporary seat of the French government while they are moving it to Bordeaux. After the Germans seize the town, Allied bombings destroy much of the railway station area, killing hundreds.
Less than 40 miles east of Orleans, the Germans build the Beaune-la-Rolande internment camp. The French will run this transit camp for Jews, waiting for the trip to Auschwitz. Records indicate more than 18,000 Jews will arrive at this camp.
Tours Today
Tours is the capital of the Indre-et-Loire department in the Centre region of France. The population is around 139,000.
Luckily, the city’s mayor was instrumental in protecting the historic center from demolition. His example will lead to French laws protecting historic districts.
Center-Val-de-Loire’s main industry is wheat and cereal. With 22 A.O.C.s, wine is also an important part of the regional agri-food business.
Tourism is becoming an important aspect of the economy as people spend more time in the Loire Valley. Besides the chateaus, there is plenty to see and do.
What is in Tours for me?
See & Hear.
Visitors can stroll cobblestone lanes and admire the beautiful architecture.
Sit in the cathedral and watch the sun cast colorful splashes of light across the interior through the stained glass.
Another option is to sit in a square, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Tours is in the garden of France. You could spend a day just smelling and tasting the local cheeses and wines. There are five different A.O.C. variations of goat cheese alone. And do not forget the wine. The Loire has five wine regions, including the Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé region.
Feel.
Sip a glass of wine from the nearby vineyards.
Watch the shadows growing longer across the same landscape Joan of Arc once stood on.
You are contemplating your day of chateaus, cheese, and Joan of Arc.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should-see Tours
With more than 130,000 citizens, Tours is the largest town in this area. In addition to the Loire, it also has the Cher river to its south. Beginning as the Roman city Caesarodunum, it dates to circa 40 B.C.
Le Pont Wilson (Pont de Pierre)
Dating from 1778, it is the oldest bridge in Tours. The bridge receives its current name in honor of U.S. President Woodrow Wilson during WWI. Tours is the location of a large US military base.
Place Porte de Loire
At the south end of the Pont Wilson is this living room of the city. Completely rebuilt after the WWII bombing. The Rue Nationale, the major north-south street, starts at the bridge and splits the city in two.
Château de Tours
This 11th-century castle is near the river. Unlike other chateaus, it does not sit on a hill overlooking the city. Today it serves as an exhibition space, usually showing contemporary exhibitions of paintings and photographs.
Basilique Saint-Julien
This 11th-century Romanesque church replaces several churches on this spot just off Place Porte. It is the largest Romanesque church in the area and has a cobbled floor and remains of frescos. The modern stained-glass really makes it interesting.
Musée du Compagnonnage
Next to the basilica, in a former Saint Julien abbey, is this museum to the city’s guilds. A member of UNESCO’s List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, it is worth visiting. The collections include guilds from the stone, wood, metal, leather and textiles, food trades, and more.
Centre de Création Contemporaine Olivier Debré
Across the street from the guild’s museum is this museum for contemporary art and design.
Cathedrale Metropolitaine de Saint-Gatien
The flamboyant Gothic cathedral dates from 1170 A.D., replacing an earlier church. The church has impressive stained-glass and a 16th-century organ. The marble tomb holds the children of Bourbon King Charles VIII, who died in infancy.
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Tours
The museum is next to the cathedral as it occupies the former bishop’s palace. In addition to the collection, including local artists, the gardens are also worth a look.
Musée de la typographie
This small museum packs a lot in. There are many interesting exhibits and artifacts. They cover the history of printing in detail. It is around the corner from Cathédrale Saint-Gatien.
Hotel Gouin
The structure began as a 15th-century mansion for silk tycoons. The Gouin family buys the property in 1738 and begins enlarging and improving. They will keep it for almost 200 years. Unfortunately, all but the south facade disappears in a 1940 fire. Today, it serves as an exhibit space for numerous programs.
Hôtel de Ville de Tours
The City Hall building, dating from 1904, is of a scale larger than life. This shows the strength of the city. It sits on the edge of the old city adjacent to the Palais of Justice.
Jardin botanique de Tours
The city’s oldest public garden dating from 1843 and began as a place to grow medical and exotic plants unavailable locally. The park, in the southwest corner of town, is free to the public.
Vieux (Old) Tours.
There is no specific “line” where the old town begins. However, the streets change from paved to cobblestone.
Basilique Saint-Martin de Tours
This makes a great starting point. On the Rue des Halles, they began construction of this basilica circa 1860. Its round dome is easy to spot from blocks away.
Across the street is Charlemagne Tower, part of the original basilica of Saint Martin. One block west is another tower from the original basilica. Once the Treasury Tower, today they call it the Clock Tower (Tour de l’Horloge.)
With the Basilica behind you and Charlemagne’s Tower on your right, walk to the back of the tower. On the street behind the tower, look left. Approximately three buildings down on the far side, you should see a half turret on the side of a building. It is on the corner of Rue du Change. Turn right down Rue du Change.
As you walk, look up. There is great architecture, including half-timber houses. At the first cross street (Rue du Petit Soleil), turn right and check out #22 on your right. Return to Rue du Change and check out the half-timbers on the other side of the street. Continue down Rue du Change but take the next block slowly. There is so much to take in.
Place Plumereau
Rue du Change runs into this charming square. If you do not feel you are standing in the middle of “Beauty and the Beast,” you’re not looking hard enough. When ready, depart the square at the far opposite corner from where you came in, on Rue Briçonnet. Here you will see a mixture of architectural styles. About five buildings down on your right is an open area. Look right, and you should see red brick and dark timbers on the building’s upper floors.
Walk a little further around the building to see the staircase behind the red brick. I would continue around the building to the next street. Here you will see an open area with more great buildings around it. Turn right, and the tunnel ahead of you takes you back into the square.
Museum of Natural History of Tours
The museum, near the Old Town, has been in this location after WWII bombings destroy the original museum. Here, you can learn more about the area’s flora and fauna.
Castle of Plessis-lez-Tours.
The remains of this Royal Chateau are a 15-minute drive to the southwest part of town. Much of this late-Gothic royal residence is a victim of the French Revolution in 1796.
North.
Dolmen de la Grotte aux Fées.
Dating from circa 2000 B.C., this stone house is 30 minutes drive north of town. Sitting in the middle of a flat field, with no other large stones in sight, it is the area’s answer to Stonehenge. The Dolmen measures 36 feet across by 14 feet deep. The walls are large boulders put into place on three sides. Three enormous slabs of rock rest on top of the boulders, nine feet from the ground. There are many more questions than answers here.
East, Vouvray.
Across the river and east of Tours is the village of Vouvray and its many award-winning wines. Many wine estates have short visiting hours and are closed at lunch. Many require reservations. I suggest calling ahead regardless, as schedules can sometimes only be a suggestion. Tastings are not free and reflect the quality of the wine. French is the main language with some staff speaking various levels of English.
Brédif Marc (ETS)
Less than 20 minutes drive east from the Pont Wilson is this wine estate. Do not let the size fool you. This wine estate has been producing incredible wines in both the Vouvray and Chinon regions since 1893.
Caveau du Château Moncontour – Vignobles Feray
Two minutes further east is this chateau and vineyard. They specialize in white and rose wines. The tasting area and wine museum are below the foundation walls blocking a clear view of the private residence. The best photos are near the turnoff from the main road.
Cave des Producteurs de Vouvray.
Three minutes north of Caveau du Chateau Moncontour is this wine estate’s cellar and tasting room. They produce white, rose, sparkling, and red wines ranging from sweet to dry.
Domaine Champalou
Another four minutes north is this winery. A family affair since the 1980s, they are producing several award-winning Vouvray Chenin Blanc (Pineau de la Loire) wines.
Domaine Huet – L’Échansonne.
Five minutes east of Caveau du Chateau Moncontour is this wine estate. Although there is no big imposing chateau, there are excellent wines from Chenin blanc grapes. The winery dates to 1928.
South
Domaine de Cande
This lovely Renaissance chateau, 30 minutes south of town, dates from circa 1499. Over the years, it has several owners, each one adding on more. The art-deco flavor dates from the 1920s when a Franco-American industrialist buys the property. The house hosts the 1937 marriage of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, former King of England, and Wallis Simpson. They do not live here. Their residence was south of Versailles near Paris.
Lac Chambray-les-Tours
A 20-minute drive south of town, this is a lovely park for a picnic for local families. There is nothing of major interest as the Easter Island moai head is a climbing space, not an original.
Château de Villandry
On the south side of the river, 20 minutes west, is this striking chateau. It is also one of the youngest, dating from only 1532. At this time, fortresses are becoming chateaus, and walls are giving way to extensive gardens. Villandry kicks every other chateau’s gardens to the curb. The chateau is lovely, but you come for the endless gardens. The gardens are open all year, while the chateau is only open for tours in the warmer months.
Less than 20 minutes drive beyond Villandry is this excellent example of early French Renaissance architecture. Dating from 1527, it is unusual for its “L” shape. This is because they did not finish the original design. Do the climb to the attic if you enjoy seeing building techniques from a different age.
Chateau de L’Islette.
This castle dating from 1530, is less than two miles west of Château d’Azay-le-Rideau. Many of the public rooms of this private house are open to the public, and in the summer, they offer evening tours on select nights. The chateau hosts an affair between the sculptors Camille Claudel and Auguste Rodin in the late 1890s.
Château d’Ussé
The Lord of Usse has had a fortification on this hillside since the eleventh century. In the 1400s, it changes hands several times, ending up in the hands of Jacques d’Espinay by 1455. His son will add the Flamboyant Gothic style and mix in new Renaissance motifs, creating the structure you see today.
The author Charles Perrault is a guest here on numerous occasions. He will author numerous stories using the castle as a setting. These include Cinderella and The Sleeping Beauty.
Circa 1813, the Duc de Duras purchases the property. Today the château belongs to his descendant, the 7th Duke of Blacas.
The chateau has been on a French railroad poster and is one of many that Walt Disney would use as inspiration in his castles. A 15-minute drive west of Chateau de L’Islette, it would be a shame to miss.
West
Le Prieuré Saint-Cosme
The remains of this 11th-century prior are on the far west edge of town, near the Loire. Since WWII, all that remains is the Prior’s House, the refectory, and fragments of the church. The gardens are lovely, garnering the classification Jardins remarquables.
Gallo-Roman Aqueduct of Luynes
Twenty minutes drive west of town, near the village of Luynes, are parts of 44 supports to an aqueduct. Only eight complete arches remain. Take a quick spin through Luynes, which has its own chateau on a hill. However, this one is still a private residence.
Château de Luynes
Dating from the twelfth century, the chateau sits on a rocky promontory overlooking Luynes. It plays host to Philip IV, Charles VII, Louis XI, Catherine de Medici, Charles IX, and Louis XIII. Today, it is a private residence, home to only the third family to live here. They have been in residence since 1619.
Amboise
Thirty minutes east of Tours is the town of Amboise. Beginning as the Gallic city of Ambacia, the Romans change that.
The Franks leave their touch on the chateau on the hill overlooking the Loire. Per the requirements of Loire towns, there are a Romanesque cathedral and other 12th century treasures. And, of course, the splash of Italian from the French Renaissance. The town Leonardo da Vinci will not leave.
Château Royal d’Amboise.
At the top, the fortress turn chateau is home to Anjou’s Counts, until circa 1460 when the French king takes it for himself. Charles VIII and his wife, Anne of Brittany, are responsible for the largest renovation, growing it to 220 rooms. François Ier will make it into a great Renaissance destination. The Crown moves its primary residence during the 1600s, but the Bourbon kings return in the 1700s. Much of what you see today dates from rebuilding after the French Revolution and WWII.
Chapel of Saint-Hubert.
On the grounds of the Chateau is this small chapel and final resting place for Leonardo DaVinci. Originally in the St. Florentin church in Amboise, until the people destroy it during the French Revolution.
Animation Renaissance Amboise Spectacle La Prophétie d’Amboise.
This is not a sound and light show. It is an extravaganza on the grounds of the Royal Chateau several evenings in the summer. Yes, there are lights, horses, actors, multimedia projections, pyro-techniques, and even Leonardo’s appearance. If you know a little history of the chateau, you can follow the story.
Château du Clos Lucé
Less than 10 minutes walk from the Chateau Royal is the summer home of the royals. This is where Leonardo DaVinci lives during his last days. Numerous rooms pay tribute to DaVinci, but don’t miss the oratory of Anne of Brittany and other royal rooms.
Château Gaillard Amboise
Young King Charles VIII returns to Amboise from Italy circa 1500 with 22 artisans from Naples. The team includes Pacello de Mercoliano, perhaps the best Renaissance garden designer of the time. Here at this small chateau, Charles has them create the first French Renaissance garden in this area. You can tour the chateau, but the gardens and park are the main draws. The location is three minutes east of Chateau du Clos.
Église Saint-Denis
This Romanesque Collegiate church sits on a hill west of the chateau. Dating from the beginning of the 12th century, it sits on a 4th-century church and Roman ruins. The decorations inside are excellent and appear to be originals, avoiding damage in the revolution or war.
Église Saint-Florentin.
Dating from 1484, King Louis XI builds the church for the village people. This is, so they do not bring illness to the castle. Although near the river and castle, it survives the revolution. The windows are post-WWII.
Musee de l’hotel de Ville
In the old city hall building, across the street from Saint Florentin, a small museum tells Ambroise’s history, predominantly through paintings.
North
Château de Valmer
The portal, outbuildings, and the Petit Valmer date from circa 1640 as part of Thomas Bonneau’s home, an adviser to King Louis XIII.
A 1948 fire destroys most of the original castle except the basement. Today, you can tour the gardens and sample the estate’s wine. Reservations are necessary. The estate is 20 minutes north of town.
East
Plou and Fils Cellar
A ten-minute drive east along the river brings you to this wine estate. There is no large chateau, but the cellars and wine tasting area are here. You can also explore the nearby vineyards if you wish.
South
Château de Chenonceau.
Less than 30 minutes drive south from town, on the River Cher is one of the superstar chateaus. You may not know it by name, but you will probably identify it by sight. The current château, dating from circa 1520, is the square section. In 1535, King Francis I, take it for himself. Circa 1547, Henry II gives it to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. When Henry dies, his wife, Catherine de’ Medici, used to having her way, makes it her chateau.
When her son Francis II takes the throne, she creates the grand gallery along the river’s existing bridge. King Henri IV would give it to his mistress, and the Bourbon kings would use it as a hunting lodge. Offering the only bridge across the river for miles saves it from destruction in the revolution.
Henri Menier, of chocolate fame, buys the chateau in 1913. After floods in 1940 and Allied bombing in 1944, the Menier family restores it to what you see today.
Castle Couldraies
Dating from the 1500s, it was part of the Chenonceau Castle property. This outbuilding was a hunting lodge where King Françoi could meet ladies who were not the queen. Today, it is a winery and bed and breakfast.
Castle Nitray
Dating from the 1500s, the castle counts Seventeen families as owners, many with royal connections. They have been producing wine on the estate for more than 400 years. Today, you can visit several outbuildings of the chateau and sample the wine. The castle is 20 minutes west of Chenonceau along the River Cher.
The Chanteloup Pagoda
This 1775 folly was the Duke of Choiseul’s idea, who had little to do after his exile from King Louis XV’s court. The structure is seven stories high, reaching 144 feet. The Pagoda (wedding cake) design gets smaller with each level. From the top, he could watch nearby hunting parties. The folly and the reflecting pool next to it are all that remains of the estate.
West
Les Caves Duhard
Five minutes west along the river are the more than 100-year-old cellars of this wine estate. Tours in English take place in the afternoon with a reservation. Wine tasting without a tour is also available.
ANGERS (WESTERN LOIRE VALLEY).