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Rouen is on the Seine River approximately two hours drive northwest from Paris. It is about one hour from Le Havre where the Seine empties into the English Channel.
Its history goes back to the days of the Gauls. The Veliocasses tribe was living on the northeast side of the Seine river in one of Gaul’s three parts called Belgica. Their presence dates to the third century BC.
They were indeed present during the time of Julius Caesar’s conquests (58–51 BC) as he found them the fiercest. During the Roman occupation, the Romans refer to the town as Rotomagus. It was a principal city of Gallia Lugdunensis (Roman Gaul) after Lyon, (Lugdunum.)
Not so Ancient Rouen
By 284 A.D., the Roman Empire was showing signs of strain. The new Emperor Diocletian commands a reorganization and appoints his fellow officer Maximian as a co-emperor. He later divides the empire into four sections and appoints two Ceasars (Galerius and Constantius.) He makes Rouen the chief city of the divided province Gallia Lugdunensis II. Foundations of a Roman amphitheater and bath complex date from this time.
Franks For the Memories
In 476 A.D. there is the Fall of the Western Roman Empire. Clovis, the second king of the Franks, takes over Northern Gaul in the vacuum that follows the fall. By the early 500’s all of the Frankish tribes are under a single king instead of many tribes. Clovis also ensures that the kingship will pass down to his heirs. He is the founder of the Merovingian dynasty, who will rule the Frankish kingdom until 751. Their domain includes most of modern-day France, Germany, Switzerland, and Austria.
Remember how Clovis arranges for only his kin to be heirs? His relatives will put the fun in dysfunctional as they cheat, swindle and kill each other for power. The kingdom would divide into four divisions, Austrasia, Neustria, Burgundy, and Aquitaine. And then sometimes, it would come together into one before separating again.
While the Franks Play
While the Merovingian dynasty members are busy undermining each other, Charles Martel is active asserting himself and his relatives into the offices of mayor of the palace in the Merovingian kingdoms. Soon they are the de facto rulers of the Franks and the real power behind the Merovingian throne. With the support of the Papacy, in 751 the overthrow the Merovingian kings. The Carolingian dynasty will rule most of France for the next 500 years.
The Carolingian King Pepin begins an ambitious program to strengthen the kingdom. They reform the legislation, so the Mayor of the Palace no longer has as much power. Then he continues to support the reforms of Boniface. Moreover, Pepin secures the Pope’s position by defending him from the Lombards in Italy. Also, he acquires land for the Papal States.
Pepin dies in 768, and his sons take over. Their names are Carloman and Charlemagne.
Carloman dies of mysterious causes three years later. Funny how French history seems to have A LOT of mysterious deaths… His brother becomes the sole ruler.
Normans, Is That You?
The empire of the Franks, now Carolingians was ruling over most, but not all of today’s France. In the upper northeast corner was a band of some of the roughest bullies on the block; The Normans from an area they called Normandy. This group was ragtag of Franks, Gallo-Romans, and Norse Viking settlers, and they wanted land.
In 841, they overran Rouen. In 911, they sign the Treaty of Saint-Clair-sur-Epte, with King Charles III, the Carolingian king. The Normans get lands along the Seine, will defend against other Vikings, and will convert to Christianity. This agreement creates the Duchy of Normandy, and Rouen is the capital.
The Norman dukes create the most powerful, duchies in Western Europe. They help place Hugh Capet (a non-Carolingian) on the French throne. They support the church with the building of monasteries and schools, which allows integration with remote territories. The dukes impose hefty fees on their fiefs to supply an army of knights. They would also hire Viking mercenaries against their enemies around Normandy, including the king of the Franks.
Olaf Haraldsson crosses the Channel to support Richard II in the conflict against the count of Chartres. The year is 1014. While in Rouen, he receives his baptism. A year later he becomes St. Olaf, King of Norway.
Other Shores
In 1031, William I becomes the Duke of Normandy. Something happens in England in 1066 that draws his attention. Edward the Confessor, King of England dies. He is William’s first cousin, once removed, and without a child. Legend says he told William he was his choice as a successor. However, Harold Godwinson grabs the throne for himself.
William crosses the Channel, defeats and kills Harold at the 1066 Battle of Hastings. With Harold out of the way, he becomes King of England. He is William the Conqueror, and the Norman Invasion will go into the history books.
He rules from Caen in Normandy.
The Duchy remains part of the Anglo-Norman realm until 1204 when the French king Philip II conquers them. Philip trusts the Normans as far as he can throw one and installs French administrators immediately. It takes him a little longer to build the Rouen Castle, (Château Bouvreuil,) a symbol of French royal power. He constructs it on the Gallo-Roman amphitheater.
Rouen has a textile industry thanks to the wool they import from England. It also holds a monopoly on the Seine river for anyone wanting to go upstream.
Civil Unrest
In 1285, Philip IV became King of France. And with him come changes for the entire country. He wants to make the feudal country into a centralized state, giving himself more power.
In 1291, Rouen’s poor assassinate the mayor and pillage the residences of the nobles.
King Philip IV restores order and suspends the city’s charter and monopoly on river traffic. Three years later, he lets the people of Rouen purchase their old privileges.
He expels Rouen’s six thousand Jews in 1306. Unhappiness is smoldering just below the surface.
In 1389, the poor have had enough and stage another urban revolt. And again, the king takes away their charter and river-traffic privileges.
The Hundred Years War (1337 – 1453)
In January of 1419, Henry V of England captures Rouen and gives it and Normandy to the House of Plantagenet.
This action does not go over well. The commander of the crossbowmen of Rouen, Alain Blanchard, orders the hanging of English prisoners from the walls. The English capture and execute him.
Robert de Livet, the Vicar General of Rouen, excommunicates the English king. He becomes a local hero and celebrates his celebrity status in an English prison.
Jacques d’Arc’s Daughter
Jeanne (Joan) d’Arc became a heroine of France for her role during the latter part of the Hundred Years’ War. She receives voices and visions from the Archangel Michael, Saint Margaret, and Saint Catherine of Alexandria in 1428. They instruct her to support Charles, The Dauphin of France, in getting back his father’s crown. And to recover France from English domination. Charles sends Joan to the Siege of Orléans as part of a relief army. The British surround Orleans, a symbolic stronghold to the Dukes of Orléans. They support the claims of the disinherited and banished Charles to the French throne. If the British can seize the city, it will indicate they rule all of France.
A French legend says a woman will deliver them from the English and they believe Joan is that woman. Civilians start following her commands, much to the disdain of the army. But her strikes are successful, and with each new one, more and more French believe in her. In nine days, the British retreat. It is a massive win for France, especially mentally.
She goes on to win back several smaller towns along the Seine, bringing it back into French control.
She then marches on Reims where the Dauphin has his coronation as Charles VII of France. This event is the turning of the tide.
She Can’t Get a Signal
She has a few more minor wins but is unsuccessful during the siege to recapture Paris. Burgundian troops capture her the following year in an ambush. They sell her to the English at their headquarters in Rouen. After the mockery of a trail with only pro-English and Burgundian clerics, they find her guilty of heresy.
They burn her alive, tied to a stake, in the middle of Rouen’s Vieux-Marché during May of 1431. The English burn her two more times, so no relics remain. They then dump her ashes in the river.
Note – A new trial finds her innocent 25 years later. Pope Benedict XV canonizes her as a saint of the Roman Catholic Church In 920.
By 1449, Charles VII finally recaptures Rouen.
For the next 400 years, Rouen’s history is much like that of the rest of France. 1793 Napoleon rises and by 1814 meets his Waterloo.
Rouen becomes the seat of the Exchequer of Normandy during the Middle Ages. To read more about the history of France, click here.
The World Wars
In the First World War, Rouen was far enough behind the lines to receive much damage. It became a major logistics center with up to nine hospitals, many in operation for the duration of the war.
During the German occupation of WWII, Rouen is not as lucky. The Kriegsmarine occupies a chateau for their headquarters in a castle that is now the Rouen Business School.
The Germans use the city as an essential supply center, and it has several bridges across the Seine. It is a favorite target for the Allied bombers. By the end of the war, 45% of the city is in shambles.
Rouen Today
Rouen is a port city, the capital of Seine-Maritime département, and Haute-Normandie région, The town is old and new, old and young, traditional with a little cutting edge. Tourism is not its most prominent industry, but there is plenty to see and do.
What is in Rouen for me?
See & Hear.
Visitors can stroll cobblestone lanes and admire the beautiful timber-framed homes.
Sit in the cathedral and watch the sun cast colorful splashes of light across the interior through the stained glass. Some of the windows date back to between 1200 and the 1500s.
Another option is to sit in a square, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Rouen is where, in 1948, the tall California native Julia McWilliams fell in love. She did this while having lunch with her husband at Restaurant La Couronne. But it was not a scandal. Paul Child and his new bride were eating French food for the very first time. For Julia, it was love at first bite. She would take French cooking back to America and share it with a hungry audience. Restaurant La Couronne, is still open, (coming up on its 700th anniversary in 2045). Julia Child’s Foundation keeps her spirit alive and Mastering the Art of French Cooking is still in print. Splurge and experience the first French meal she had at the same location. Also, the first time she had wine with lunch. Bon Appetite.
Feel.
Sip a glass of Calvados from the nearby apple orchards.
Watch the shadows growing longer across the same cityscape that Monet and others captured on canvas.
You are contemplating your day of castles, camembert, and Joan of Arc.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should-see in Rouen.
Much of Rouen’s historical center is under consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Structures include the half-timbered buildings, cathedral, Saint-Ouen Church, and Saint Maclou Church.
Old Churches
Cathédrale Notre-Dame – is one of France’s largest and most impressive Gothic cathedrals. The main structure dates from the 13th century on the spot where other churches have stood since the fourth century. But building it took 300 years. It has two towers soaring over the town. The left tower, Saint Romain’s, began construction in 1035. It would see numerous fires and lightning strikes before completion. The Tour de Beurre, (Butter Tower,) is on the right. Financing the construction of the tower was by collecting offerings from the faithful. In turn, they had permission to eat butter during Lent.
The cathedral is home to France’s highest spire at 495 feet. Despite direct hits from bombs during WWII, the church still has some original stained glass windows. Fans of Claude Monet will recognize the church. He would paint a series of 30 canvases, catching it in different lights.
Eglise Saint-Maclou (Church of Saint-Maclou) – is a jewel of Flamboyant Gothic architecture dating from 1437. As with many churches that take centuries to build, it contains a blend of different architectural styles. Renaissance-era wooden doors, the church, Gothic staircase, and Baroque confessionals.
Abbatiale Saint-Ouen (Church of St. Ouen) – is a large Gothic Roman Catholic church famous for both its architecture and its large, unaltered Cavaillé-Coll organ. This 12th-century church for the Benedictine monastery of Saint-Ouen is a masterpiece of Late Gothic architecture. The “Crown of Normandy” tops the tower. Besides the organ, which they play recordings of, the most remarkable feature of the church is the light. Gothic churches are usually dark, but 80 impressive stained-glass windows change this.
In addition:
Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) – looks like it is part of the abbey. At one time it was the dormitory for the monastery’s monks. Behind Town Hall see the former abbey gardens, which are now a public park.
New Churches
Eglise Jeanne d’Arc – Overlooks the Place du Vieux Marché, the site of Joan of Arc’s burning for heresy in 1431. This modern church, dating from 1979 is to commemorate the famous saint with its unusual design. The shape of the church’s roof represents the flames of the fire. The interior is bright due to light streaming through Renaissance stained-glass windows from the former Saint-Vincent church.
Church Related
Aître Saint-Maclou – is more a cemetery than a church. The building sits over a mass grave from the 1347 Black Plague, responsible for killing over 30% of the population. Church construction begins in 1437 and the galleries of the aitre (churchyard) soon after the church completion. Later, it becomes a school, and in 1782, they no longer allow parish burials. The galleries decor is macabre, depicting skulls, bones, gravedigging tools, and funeral objects. There is a skeleton in the masonry. In the Middle Ages, black cats would protect against bad luck.
Today, the Ecole Supérieure d’Art et Design (Regional School of Fine Arts) is in the southern gallery. In 2018, they began a substantial renovation of the property. You can visit during select times, but much of the site is behind scaffolding. There is no set completion date as of June 2019.
Non – Churches
Place du Vieux-Marché – the old Market offers a little bit of all of Rouen’s history. Half-timber buildings, a church, the site of Joan of Arc’s execution and Restaurant La Couronne.
Palais de Justice – is a Gothic masterpiece dating from 1509. The palace serves as the Rouen Law Courts and the meeting place of the Parliament of Normandy. The building is not open to the public, but the exterior is enough. The ornate architecture and detailing includes a magnificent balustrade, soaring pinnacles, and perforated buttresses. Do not miss the incredible gargoyles jutting out.
The Monument Juif (Jewish Monument) – is a present. While renovating the Palais de Justice in 1976, they uncovered a stone building beneath the courtyard. Further excavating of the building reveals the lower level of an old Yeshiva (rabbinical school) dating from 1100. Outside is Rue aux Juif (Street of the Jews). This area was the old Jewish quarter during the time of William the Conqueror until their expulsion in 1306. It is the oldest Jewish monument (to date) in France.
Tour du Gros-Horloge (Big Clock Tower) – is a Gothic belfry tower dating from 1389 for defensive purposes. The sizeable decorative clock dates from 1889. Still working, the facade has incredible details. A globe shows the phases of the moon. At noon, a deity symbolizing the day of the week appears on a triumphal chariot. Sheep are representing the wool industry, and a Passover lamb represents the arms of the city. It is on Rue du Gros Horloge, a street running from the Cathedral to near the Palais de Justice.
Historical Streets
Rue Saint-Romain – is one of two more-historical streets with original structures. It runs east-west along the north side of the cathedral. In the 15th century, it was home to glass painters. Later it would be the street of the ironworkers, the archbishop, then the citizen during the revolution. Exteriors to view include the flamboyant Gothic gate, Portail des Libraires at #3, dating from the 1200s.
Further along at #70, is the blacksmith workshop of Ferdinand Marrou, one of many properties on the Historical Monuments list. At # 74, is one of the citie’s oldest and most picturesque houses. Fans of artist Camille Pissarro should look east while standing in front of #74. Around 1896 he did several drawings near here.
Rue Eau de Robec – is one of the more historical and scenic streets remaining. A short walk from the Church of St. Ouen, is this street of half-timber buildings, many with boutiques or cafes. Also, there is a museum and a children’s carousel. These buildings, many from the 15th century, were part of the cloth dying industry. At the corner of Rue Lamauve is the master dyer’s house, dating from 1735.
The National Museum of Education is in the Maison des Quatre Fils Aymon at #185, rue Eau de Robec. The structure, dating from the 1400s is one of the oldest buildings on the street.
Other Museums
Musée des Beaux-Arts – is one of the most important art museums in France. Napoleon I began the museum in 1801. Its current building dates from 1888. A 1994 renovation brought updating to the entire museum. The permanent collection resides in sixty rooms, including the François Depeaux collection of more than 50 Impressionist works. In the group are some of Monet’s Rouen series which Depeaux may have persuaded him to paint. It is the most extensive Impressionist collection in France, second only to the Musée d’Orsay. The painting collections represent every European school from the 15th to the 21st century.
Musée de la Céramique – is in the elegant Hôtel d’Hocqueville, a structure dating from the 1600s. It is adjacent to the Musée des Beaux-Arts. The museum contains five thousand pieces, including Rouen earthenware from the 16th to the late 18th century. Other exhibits include works by Masséot Abaquesne, Pierre II Chapelle, Delft, Nevers, and Lille.
Musée Le Secq des Tournelles – is another Gothic church, Ugh. But, it is now a museum with a unique collection of antique wrought-ironwork. The church building, dating from the 1400s retains its incredible stained-glass windows, including the Tree of Jesus. There are 14,000 items including railings, door hardware, scientific instruments, and jewelry, some dating from the Gallo-Roman era.
Legends
Tour Jeanne d’Arc – The tower is the only remaining part of the Rouen castle built by Philippe Auguste in 1207. Joan would spend time in this cold and imposing cylindrical tower during her interrogation. Her cell was in the Tour de la Pucelle, a nearby tower torn down in 1809. Bits of that tower’s foundation is visible at 102 rue Jeanne d’Arc.
Additional Sites.
Panorama XXL – takes the panorama 360-degree concept, IMAX and supersizes it. Guests stand on a tower in the middle of a large round structure. Then they project a multi-media presentation on the walls above and below you as well as the ceiling. It gives you a 360-degree experience squared. Past exhibitions include Rouen 1431 A.D., Rome 312 A.D., the wreck of the Titanic and others. Words and pictures do not fully capture the experience.
Historical Joan of Arc – if you like multi-media presentations, this one takes you through the second trial of Joan of Arc. Tour inside the Archbishop’s Palace, containing the remains of the “Officiality” hall, where, in 1431, they find her guilty. It is also the location of her 1456 rehabilitation trial. You walk through the building while receiving different parts of the presentation. It is a brilliant idea.
The Waterfront
Unfortunately, much of the historic waterfront was a victim of the Allied bombing in WWII. Near the Panorama-XXL are a few warehouses that now are home to cafes and entertainment outlets. Due to the fixed Guillaume le Conquerant bridge, large ships cannot proceed any further upriver. You may see some cargo boats alongside. There is a wide promenade for strolling.
In June each year, they have the Armada de Rouen, a gathering of some of the world’s largest sailing boats. Up to 30 tall ships arrive from various countries, and the event lasts approximately ten days. French warships and submarines often appear as well. The civilian vessels are free to visit during the day. At night, there are concerts by French bands and fireworks most nights. Close to one million people visit throughout the festival. Hotel rooms are at a premium during this period.
Outside Rouen
Route des Abbayes – is a scenic drive between Rouen and Le Havre, following the Seine River much of the way. The route will take you through the villages of Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville and Jumièges. Besides the ever-changing landscape and historic villages, you can see the Abbeys of Saint-Georges and Saint-Pierre.
Giverny – is just over an hours drive. This small village contains the home and gardens of the Impressionist painter Claude Monet. He was living and painting here from 1883 until his death in 1926. The gardens and lily pond were the subjects of some of his most famous works. The Foundation Claude Monet museum encompasses the house, studio, and gardens. It is open from March 23rd to November 1st.
Nearby, the Musée des Impressionnismes Giverny highlights the Impressionist art movement. Its primary focus is mounting exhibitions, but the museum also has a small but impressive permanent collection.
Église Sainte-Radegonde de Giverny is a small Romanesque church in the west end of the village. Parts of the church date to the 11th century. In the cemetery are the tombs of the Monet family.
Non-Monet Giverny
Chateau de Bizy – dating from 1675 is an overwhelming estate, complete with a grande house, gardens, stables, and park. It will be home to members of the House of Bourbon and House of Orleans. Today it belongs to the family home of the Duke of Albufera. The estate, gardens, and stables are open to visit March 22nd to November 3rd. The castle is also open at this time but requires touring with a scheduled group and guide.
Castle of La Roche-Guyon – is a castle and 18th-century manor house. The grounds include a vegetable garden, an observatory and defensive tunnels from WWII. The chateau, dating from the 12th century, is guarding what was once a vital river crossing.
By the Sea
Le Havre – being a port town during WWII, does not have a lot of historic buildings left to see. Well, yes and no. Anything pre-1942 is minimal. However, they have the technology, and they rebuild it. Between 1945 to 1964 they create a new city with a modular grid. They do this by pushing the use of prefabrication and concrete to new levels. This post-war urban planning puts Le Havre, the City Rebuilt by Auguste Perret on UNESCO’s World Heritage Site list. Drive the triangle of Avenue Foch, Boulevard François Ier, and Rue de Paris to see the best examples. These include the Hotel de Ville (city hall), Église Catholique Saint-Joseph, and Le Volcan.
Le Havre Cathedral – is a Roman Catholic church sitting in central Le Havre, an area leveled during WWII. Previously a parish church dating from the 16th century, it is the oldest building in central Le Havre. Nearby are numerous museums, many in the rebuilt area. These include The Museum of Modern Art André Malraux (MUMA), and the Natural History Museum.
Hotel Dubocage Bléville is a maritime museum in the home of Michel Dubocage, a navigator, privateer, and merchant. The collection includes models, prints, plans, paintings, and other items from his travels. The house is delightful, and it provides for the history of Le Havre and its port.
The Musée Maison de l’Armateur does not look like much from the outside, don’t let that fool you. This house of a shipowner takes you into 18th century Le Havre. The house, by itself, is impressive. Also, it is an art and history museum.
Honfleur
Honfleur is a little seaside medieval village, with cobblestone alleys, half-timber houses, and a beautiful harbor. It is across the Seine from Le Havre but worlds away. It will look familiar as it has been the subject of many artists. To me, a stroll through the streets around the harbor and a seafood lunch is a perfect day here.
Even Further Afield
Caen is approximately 90 minutes from Rouen by car. Bayeux is closer to two hours with traffic.
Omaha Beach and the other D-Day landing beaches are also two hours+ each way. I prefer to see them from a base in Bayeux or at least Caen. Caen is also an excellent base for those wishing to follow the camembert or cider (Calvados) trails.
Mont Saint-Michel is a good three hours drive each way. I prefer to make it an overnight trip, using charming Saint-Malo for accommodations. This location allows you to see it in the afternoon and morning (light) as well as at different tides.