Table of Contents:
SEE ORLEANS.
SEE BLOIS
SULLY-SUR-LOIRE.
See Orleans, and you will quickly learn it is far from being a one site destination.
Just following the Loire River gives you more towns, villages, chateaus and vineyards than you can see in a week. And the Orleans section is just a third of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Loire Valley.
With a history that proceeds the Romans and cuisine beyond expectation, you should not only see Orleans but taste it.
Come, let’s see Orleans,
See Orleans.
Cathédrale Sainte-Croix d’Orléans.
This Gothic Roman Catholic church is the seat of the Bishop of Orléans. The original structure dates from circa 1329 and includes restoration and additions. This is the church where Joan of Arc would attend evening Mass during the 1429 siege on the city. There is a great view from the top of the 252 steps.
Hotel Groslot.
Dating from 1558, this private residence for Jacques Groslot, bailiff of the King of France, brings new meaning to extravagant. The residence would become a community-building, hosting important nobles and even kings. Take a stroll through the gardens behind.
Église Saint-Aignan.
The church is in honor of Anianus, the bishop of Orléans. He was able to persuade Attila the Hun from sacking the city circa 451. The current Romanesque structure dates from the 16th-century. Tours of the crypts are available.
Place du Martroi.
Today, this is the living room of Orleans. People meet, festivals take place, and a large statue of Joan of Arc guards the square. It has been a public area since the 1500s, starting as a grain market. With the building of the Chancellerie (ministry of justice) circa 1754, it also becomes the sight of public executions.
Protestant Temple of Orléans.
The round building on Rue de Bourgogne is the Protestant Church. Dating from 1839, the building is now a historical monument. The church is still active.
Notre Dame des Miracles.
Home to the Black Madonna of Orleans, which began as a 5th-century wooden figure. Joan of Arc would pray to this figure each morning during her week in Orleans. During WWII, Allied bombers level the entire neighborhood and chapel around her. She did not receive a scratch.
Église Notre-Dame-de-Recouvrance.
This Romanesque church from the sixteenth century is on top of ruins dating from the Roman Empire. Wives would pray for their sailor husbands’ return (recouvrance) as the Loire was a dangerous river. The church still has some of its 16th century stained glass.
Paroisse Saint Paterne.
This 19th-century structure is a rebuild of the original 13th-century church. Highlights include mosaics, stained glass, marble statues, paintings, and more.
Pont George V.
The arched bridge crossing the Loire dates from 1760. It sits on the sight of the previous 12th-century Bridge of the Tourelle. That bridge plays an important role in the Seige of Orleans. Unfortunately, none of the Tourelle, Bastion, or Fort Augustin, all part of the bridge’s defense, remain. You can see a great panorama of Orleans from the bridge.
The city also offers museums of modern and old. Street food to gourmet French dining, and wonderful narrow lanes to explore. See Orleans by day but also take a look around at night.
See Blois.
Blois first appears in writing circa 6th century A.D. at this time, the tribe of Blésois goes against the Dunois (inhabitants of Châteaudun) to the north.
Joan of Arc makes Blois her base of operations circa 1429 for her rescue of Orléans.
Louis XII, the future king, was born in the royal chateau circa 1462. By the 16th century, the chateau was the summer residence of the French court.
Château Royal de Blois.
Construction of the Medival fortress begins in the 13th century. It will serve as a residence to several French kings. There are more than 560 rooms, 100 of which are bedrooms. There are more than 70 staircases, although only about a third are in daily use.
In the summer, there is a light and sound show with English translations via an audio device.
Maison de la Magie Robert-Houdin.
In a house belonging to the Houdin family is a museum of magic. Inside, you will find accessories from Robert-Houdin’s 1800s act, portraits of other great magicians, and magic.
Église Saint-Nicolas-Saint-Laumer de Blois.
Anchoring the complex of buildings is the church whose real name is St-Laumer. It was the church of the abbey next door. Dating from 1186, the Protestants destroy it during the War of Religions. Additional renovations over the next several hundred years leave a church with several architectural designs.
Abbaye Saint-Laumer.
Between the river and Saint Nicolas/Saint-Laumer church is the abbey. Monks of Saint-Laumer were living outside the Blois walls by the 900s, fleeing the Normans in the north. They build the abbey in the 1200s. It will also need rebuilding after the Religious Wars (1562 and 1598).
Centre de la Résistance, de la déportation et de la mémoire.
Below the Chateau Royal on the backside is this interesting museum to the Resistance from WWII. Artifacts and journals piece together the experience.
Église Saint-Vincent de Paul.
Across the street from the Resistance Museum is the former church Holy Louis of the Jesuits. Dating from the 17th century, it will require rebuilding after the Revolution. The facade includes typical Jesuit decorations of Doric, Corinthian orders with wide volutes.
Cathedral of St. Louis of Blois.
The original church, dating from the 12th century, began as a collegiate church dedicated to Saint Solenne. Very little of this church remains. What you see today dates from 1544 and is in late Gothic style. The nave undergoes a 1680 reconstruction. Finally, the church receives cathedral status circa 1697. The organ console is a gift from King Louis XIV to mark the occasion. The new see takes the dedication to Saint Louis.
Across the parking area in front of the church, at #3 is a half-timber house dating to pre-1480. How do they know? The carvings all have design elements that would disappear after this time.
Maison de Denis Papin.
Down a flight of stairs (between the church’s front door and #3 above) is Denis Papin’s home. However, there is no proof he was ever living here. The Gothic structure is worth seeing for the enclosed bridge connecting the buildings on opposite sides of the street.
Hôtel de Ville de Blois.
Adjacent to the cathedral, this 18th-century building began as the Episcopal Palace. Since WWII, it is the city hall. Unfortunately, most of the interior charm disappears in the post-war renovations. Check out the
Rue du Puits Châtel.
Le Pont Jacques-Gabriel Blois.
Escalier Denis Papin.
This grand staircase and gardens honor Denis Papin, local doctor, mathematician, and inventor circa1647. The staircase, dating from 1865, includes a statue of Papin at the top.
In the summer, they often paint the steps with images. By rainy winter, most of the image disappears.
East of Blois.
Château de Chambord.
Perhaps the most famous of the Loire Chateaus, Chambord is actually three miles south of the river. There is no one designer of the chateau as changes began almost immediately. Construction. Starts circa 1519 on this grand hunting lodge for King Francis I. When he dies 28 years later, the chateau is still not complete, and there are no furnishings.
King Louis XIV takes control circa 1655 and furnishes the whole chateau. He adds a stable that can hold 1200 horses for weekend hunting parties. By 1685, hunting or the chateau bore him, and he abandons the chateau.
For the next 100 years, it will host friends or distant relatives of the king needing shelter. By the Revolution of 1792, the government sells anything they can from the chateau, including the paneling.
The French state takes possession in 1930 but does little to restore the property. During WWII, they use the chateau to store the Louvre Museum’s collection. Mona Lisa did not look happy.
Today, after major renovations, it is a major tourist attraction. You can visit the chateau, gardens, stables, and parks.
Château de Menars.
Circa 1646, Guillaume Charron, an adviser to the King, builds a modest chateau on a property overlooking the Loire river. Around 1669, his son, Jean-Jacques Charron, a principal magistrate in the Parlement de Paris, enlarges the property.
Mme de Pompadour, Louis XV’s mistress between 1745 and 1751 and influential confidant, buys the chateau circa 1760. She adds two additional wings and pavilions. Before work completes, she dies, and the château passes to her brother. He will double the size and add the Italianate influence.
Since 2017, the 102,257 square foot château has been on the market. As of 2021, it is still available.
South
Église Saint-Saturnin de Blois.
There is only one steeple visible if you look across the Loire to the south (left bank). This is Saint Saturin. There has been a Catholic church here since the 10th century. Like many churches, it will need rebuilding several times and change names.
Château de Beauregard, Loire Valley.
Twenty minutes south of town is this castle dating from 1545. While still a private residence, you can visit the property.
It is most famous for its Gallery of Portraits that includes over 300 portraits of people famous (at that time). It is the largest gallery in Europe to survive to the present day.
Château de Cheverny.
They build a prominent chateau circa 1510. Circa 1550, the French King Henri II grabs it with trumped-up charges of treachery to the crown. He gives it to his mistress Diane de Poitiers. Not good enough for her, she sells it to the former owner’s son and moves into Château de Chenonceau. The family still owns the property.
Blois certainly has its fair share of chateaus. Much of that has to do with the royals building (or acquiring) their castles in this area. But do not miss all the rest of what Blois has to offer.
See Sully-Sur-Loire.
Less than an hour’s drive upriver (east) of Orleans is this small village with a large chateau. There is no sign of Roman occupation in this area. However, due to the natural fording (crossing) of the river here, there were people passing through.
Château de Sully-sur-Loire.
The chateau sits on an island in an area along the Loire that would only flood in extreme conditions. Its main responsibility was to guard the ford. In the 1300s, excessive flooding leads to the construction of dikes around the town.
Circa 1390, Guy de la Trémoille marries Marie de Sully, the last surviving Sully. Circa 1429, the chateau entertains Charles VII and Joan of Arc during their Loire campaign.
Circa 1602, Maxamillian de Bethune, minister to Henri VI, buys the chateau. Four years later, Henri VI makes him a Duke. The de Bethune family will hold the estate until 1962. They restore much of the building after the revolution.
West
Carolingian Oratory of Germigny-des-Prés.
The oratory dates from 806 and was part of his palace complex. The Vikings will destroy everything except the oratory over the next 100 years. The structure survives, becoming part of a priory circa 1067, then a parish church sometime in the 13th century.
The jewel of the oratory is a Byzantine mosaic in the dome. It is the only complete Byzantine mosaic existing in France. It pictures the Holy Grail and manna. The church plasters over the mosaic pre-French revolution, probably saving it.
Fleury Abbey.
Downriver is this monastery dating from 640 A.D. It is one of the most important Benedictine monasteries in Western Europe. The church may possess the relics of St. Benedict of Nursia. The tomb of King Philip, I of France, is here.
The abbey is the only building dating to Mediaeval times. The abbey is still active with approximately forty monks. Volunteers lead tours between March and October.
The town cemetery is the final resting place of French poet Max Jacob, a friend of Picasso.
Jewish by birth, the Germans send him to Drancy detention camp outside Paris. By March 1944, he is dead. The Friends of Max Jacob pay honor to him every March.
See Orleans Summary.
As you can see, Orleans by itself can easily fill a day or two. And that’s before you add Blois or Sully-Sur-Loire.
Set aside some time for this area. Map out the must-sees and give yourself time to really experience them.
Come, see Orleans and discover for yourself.