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LYON (lee on) sits at the meeting place of the Rhone and Saone Rivers. It is between two hills: Croix-Rousse to the east and Fourvière to the west.
It is France’s third-largest city approximately 300 miles south of Paris, and 200 miles north of Marseille. The first and second largest being Paris and Marseille.
It is the capital of the Auvergne-Rhone-Alps region and a culinary destination.
However, It does not have one site that qualifies as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has so many that they list much of the town as the Historic Site of Lyon.
Ancient History
The Gauls
Somewhere in the 5th century B.C., Celtic tribes begin moving into the area of modern-day France. They are the Gauls. The Gauls were never one tribe or group of people. They were several tribes that would band together with other Gaul tribes for protection.
By the fourth century, the Gauls rule over much of today’s Belgium, The Netherlands, Switzerland, Southern Germany, Austria, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and France. They do that by controlling the major transportation routes, the Rhône, Seine, Rhine, and Danube rivers.
Soon they also hold control of today’s Spain, Portugal, Northern Italy, the Balkans, Transylvania, and parts of Turkey.
Despite Ceaser’s possible declaration on his 52 B.C. Veni Vidi Vici world tour, Gaul is already in five parts. Gallia Belgica, (Belgium) Celtica (Cental France becomes Lugdunensis), Cisalpina, (Western Italy) Narbonensis, (Southern France), and Gallia Aquitania (Southwest France.)
Today’s Auvergne-Rhone-Alps takes up a good part of eastern Celtica (Lugdunensis) and the northeast corner of Narbonensis.
The Arverni
The name Auvergne comes from the Arverni, one of Gaul’s most powerful tribes. It consists of several smaller tribes that work as one and inhabit the regions of Celtica (Languedoc) and Aquitaine.
The regions are mountainous, making them easy to defend. Within their valleys are pastures for livestock and gold and silver mines to finance them.
One of their most influential leaders is Vercingetorix, who becomes their king circa 53 B.C. He starts by kidnapping children from the other Celtic kings, returning them for the tribe’s alliance to him.
The Arverni defeat Ceasar in the battle of Gergovia early in 52 B.C. Ceasar launches the Battle of Alesia in the fall of 52. After greatly outnumbering the Arverni, Vercingetorix surrenders himself.
The Romans pull many of the Gaulic tribes into their Republic. They allow them to keep some rights and home rule.
Circa 43 B.C., war refugees from nearby Vienne, are camping in the area where the Rhone and Saone Rivers merge. The Roman senate orders the building of a settlement on the western hill. They call it Colonia Copia Felix Munatia.
The Romans quickly realize that the new settlement is in a critical position. With the merging of the two rivers, communication between regions improves. They immediately begin building roads from here to move armies.
Soon it becomes the capital of Gallia Lugdunensis. It may be around this time when they start calling the town Lugdunum.
Not so Ancient Lyon
By 284 A.D., the Roman Empire was showing signs of strain. The new Emperor Diocletian commands a reorganization and appoints his fellow officer Maximian as a co-emperor. He later divides the empire into four sections and appoints two Ceasars (Galerius and Constantius.) This change stabilizes the realm.
His attempt to destroy the growing Christianity is bloody but fails.
When Constantine creates the second capital in Byzantium in 324 A.D., it begins the end of the Roman empire. However, during his reign, he succeeds in many things.
He stops the persecution of Christians in 313 with the Edict of Milan, which allows Christians to follow their faith.
Here Come the Burgundians.
With two capitals, The Roman and Byzantine Empires stretch themselves too thin. They become easy targets for stronger enemies.
The Burgundians are a Germanic tribe in the upper Rhine. The Romans let them settle here under foederati. (Rome provides benefits, the Burgundians provide military support.) Circa 400, they set up the Kingdom of Burgundians.
However, the Burgundians begin taking area along the Rhine. Rome sends in Hungarian troops and destroys much of the Burgundian army.
The Romans allow the remaining to resettle in Lugdunum circa 443. They make it their new capital.
This “new” kingdom stretches from west of Lyon to East of Bern Switzerland, a distance of 200+ miles. It begins around Dijon in the north and extends south to today’s Avignon, just under 300 miles.
It encompasses most of today’s Rhone-Alps. Auvergne is part of Aquitania Prima.
With the Visigoths to the south and the Huns behind them to the north, they are not able to expand. Circa 451, the Burgundian side with the Romans against Attila the Hun and manage to push him back into Italy.
When the Burgundian King Gunderic dies in 473, his four sons divide the kingdom.
Gundobad becomes the king of all of Burgundy. His brother Chilperic II rules from Valence, Gundomar, the area of Vienne, and Godegisel, the regions of Vienne and Geneva.
Franks For the Memories
In 476 A.D., the Western Roman Empire falls. Clovis, the second king of the Franks, takes over Northern Gaul in the vacuum that follows. King Gundobad allies with him. By doing this, he secures the Burgundian holdings.
He compiles the “Lex Burgundionum” about inheritance and marriage. He then murders his brother Chilperic II. Then he exiles his niece Clotilde, the wife of the Merovingian Clovis, King of the Franks.
The Franks go against the Visigoths to the west in 507. With the help of the Burgundians, they push to Visigoths to the border Hispania (Spain.) As they pass “go.” the Franks collect Auvergne.
Circa 523, the sons of King Clovis, go against the Burgundian lands, with a little instigating from their mother, Clotilde. By 532, they kill King Godomar and incorporate Burgundy into the Frankish kingdom two years later.
Clovis also ensures that the kingship will pass down to his heirs. He is the founder of the Merovingian dynasty, who will rule the Frankish kingdom until 751. Their domain includes most of modern-day France, Germany, Switzerland, and Austria.
Remember how Clovis arranges for only his kin to be heirs? His relatives will put the fun in dysfunctional as they cheat, deceive, and kill each other for power. The kingdom would divide into four divisions, Austrasia, Neustria, Burgundy, and Aquitaine. And then sometimes, it would come together into one before separating again.
While the Franks Play
While the Merovingian dynasty members are busy undermining each other, Charles Martel is actively promoting himself. Also, he places his relatives into the offices of Mayor of the Palace in the Merovingian kingdoms. Soon they are the de facto rulers of the Franks and the real power behind the Merovingian throne.
With the support of the Papacy, in 751, the overthrow the Merovingian kings. The Carolingian dynasty will rule most of France for the next 500 years.
The Carolingian King Pepin begins an ambitious program to strengthen the kingdom. They reform the legislation, so the Mayor of the Palace no longer has as much power. Then he continues to support the reforms of Boniface.
Moreover, Pepin secures the Pope’s position by defending him from the Lombards in Italy. Also, he acquires land for the Papal States.
Pepin dies in 768, and his sons take over. Their names are Carloman and Charlemagne.
Carloman dies of mysterious causes three years later. Funny how French history seems to have A LOT of mysterious deaths… His brother becomes the sole ruler.
In 800, the Pope makes Charelsmagne to Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. His kingdom includes the Kingdoms of Italy, Germany, Bohemia, and Burgandy.
Charlemagne will only have one son who outlives him. When Charlemagne dies in 814, Louis becomes king. Louis dies in 840, leaving three sons.
All of France is Divided Into Three.
After three years of feuding, the brothers finally agree to share.
The second son, Louis the German, rules over the East Frankish Kingdom or East Francia. It consists of much of today’s Austria, Switzerland, and Germany.
The youngest surviving son, Charles the Bald rules the West Frankish Kingdom or West Francia. It includes the Duchy of Burgundy. Today, this area includes much of southern and western France.
The Kingdom of Burgundy is …
Lothair I dies in 855. His will divides the kingdom between his three sons.
The eldest, Louis II, receives the title of emperor and the Kingdom of (northern) Italy.
Lothair II receives Lotharingia (Belgium, the Netherlands, Luxembourg, Switzerland.)
The youngest son, Charles, receives Arles, Burgundy, and Provence.
However, he is only a child (age 10) and Count Gerard II of Vienne, becomes his Regent. Gerard arranges that if Charles dies without an heir, Provence will revert to Charles’ brother Lothair II.
Charles dies at the age of 18 before ever taking charge, (suspicious? Nah.) His other brother Emperor Louis II also claims Provence, so they split the kingdom circa 863.
Circa 869 Lothair dies while Louis II is away. Uncles Louis the German and Charles the Bald take control of Lothair’s kingdom. Six years later, when Louis II dies, Charles the Bald becomes emperor.
He nominates his brother-in-laws Richard the Duke of Burgundy and Boso the Duke of Provence.
He dies two years later, after his brother Louis the German. Charles’s son, Louis take control in 877.
Louis, the Stammerer, is not healthy and dies two years later. His two sons Carloman II and Louis III, divide the kingdom. Carloman receives the Kingdom of Burgundy and the Kingdom of Aquitaine.
The Hazzard of Dukes.
Duke Boso of Provence renounces his allegiance to both brothers and has himself elected King of Provence. Carloman and Louis III, along with their cousin Charles the Fat, march on Boso.
It is not until the early summer of 882 he takes it back. Louis III dies in August of an “accident.”
Carloman II became the sole ruler of a kingdom in awful condition. After numerous attacks by the Vikings, the castle’s state and bank account are not healthy. Also, many of his nobles are rebellious.
Two years later, while hunting, Carloman II dies of an accident. His cousin, Emperor Charles the Fat, acquires West Francia.
Around the same time, Richard, the Duke of Burgundy, attacks his brother Boso and seizes his kingdom.
The Duke of Burgundy Circa 888.
Richard supports Duke Rudolph as the successor to the recently departed Charles the Fat. His connections will allow Richard and his descendants (the Bosonids) to hold the Duchy of Burgundy until 956.
When the last Bosonid, Gilbert, does not produce a male heir, he pulls a hail-Mary. He marries off his oldest daughter to Otto of Paris, from the Robertian family.
Circa 1004, the king, a member of the House of Capet, annexes Burgundy making it a free county. The Capets, under the name House of Burgundy, will rule for around 350 years.
Auvergne bounces around as a gift to members of the royal family but keeps coming back to the French Crown.
This passing around is not a bad thing. During this period, significant development takes place, including the building of famous abbeys and churches.
Auvergne makes it through the Hundred Years’ War, the religious wars, and epidemics, with fewer casualties than many. Part of that maybe because it is predominantly an agricultural province.
The House of Valois-Burgundy
Circa 1361, the House of Capets, does not have a legal heir. King John II takes the land for his House of Valois. They are distant relatives from the Capetian Dynasty.
The king gives the Duchy of Burgundy to his fourth son Philip the Bold. Philip immediately begins to strengthen his position through advantageous marriages.
1380 and King Charles V dies. Philip is in a position to become co-regent to his 11-year old nephew Charles VI, the new king. A place he and his brothers will hold until 1388. In which time they spend almost all of the kingdom’s finances on themselves. Charles VI brings back his father’s advisors and saves the Crown.
Mad King Charlie
Unfortunately, Charles’s mental illness begins to surface. C 1394 he expels all the Jews from his lands. Around the same time, his wife Isabeau oversees a regency council. Philip the Bold, and Louis I, Charles younger brother and Duke of Orleans fight over influencing Isabeau, therefore Charles.
With the passing of Philip the bold in 1404, his son John the Fearless takes up the cause. Three years later, Louis I, is dead from murder. Louis’s son, Charles, calls on his father-in-law, the Count of Armagnac, for support against John. The ensuing Armagnac-Burgundian Civil War will go on until 1435, 14 years after Charles VI’s death.
The Hundred Years War (1337 – 1453)
During all the fighting at home, France is also at war with England. In 1415, capitalizing on the fight of the royal family and Burgundy, King Henry V defeats the French army.
The House of Burgundy takes sides with England against the Royal family.
Charles VI signs a treaty naming Henry V, and his heirs, as his successor. The 17-year old Dauphin Charles is out of the picture. Charles responds by declaring himself Regent for his father and seizes royal authority.
Henry V dies in August of 1422, leaving a 9-month-old Henry VI as king. Two months later, Mad King Charles dies. The Dauphin continues to rule from his court in Bourges. And all the while, the Hundred Years War continues.
Jacques d’Arc’s daughter
Jeanne (Joan) d’Arc became a heroine of France for her role during the latter part of the Hundred Years’ War. She receives voices and visions from the Archangel Michael, Saint Margaret, and Saint Catherine of Alexandria in 1428. They instruct her to support Charles, The Dauphin of France, in getting back his father’s Crown. And to recover France from English domination.
Charles sends Joan to the Siege of Orléans as part of a relief army. The British surround Orleans, a symbolic stronghold to the Dukes of Orléans. They support the claims of the disinherited and banished Charles to the French throne. If the British can seize the city, it will indicate they rule all of France.
A French legend says a woman will deliver them from the English, and they believe Joan is that woman. Civilians start following her commands, much to the disdain of the army. But her strikes are successful, and with each new one, more and more French believe in her. In nine days, the British retreat. It is a massive win for France, especially mentally.
She goes on to win back several smaller towns along the Seine, bringing it back into French control.
She then marches on Reims, where the Dauphin has his coronation as Charles VII of France. This event is the turning of the tide.
Charles in Charge
Despite their helping the English, Charles VII wishes Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, back on the French side. Charles does not want anyone in France to support England. The English forces are failing miserably in France, so Philip has no choice. They sign the 1435 Treaty of Arras.
Charles issues the Pragmatic Sanction of Bourges, which in short, reduces the Pope’s singular power.
He eventually wins back Paris and brings the Hundred Years War to an end.
When he dies circa 1467, his son, John the Fearless, becomes the Duke of Burgundy.
John is many things his father was not. He fights with the Duke of Orleans over control, appearing as a threat to the French Crown. When John dies in battle without an heir in 1477, the French Crown absorbs Burgundy.
John’s sister, Mary, marries the Archduke Maximilian of Austria and challenges the Crown’s claim on Burgundy.
The War of the Burgundian Succession will last five years. In the end, Burgundy is part of the French Crown.
Fast Forward
For the next 400 years, the Descendents of the Capetian Dynasty will continue to rule the kingdom. From the Valois, power will pass to the Lancaster (briefly) back to the Valois and finally to the Bourbons. Louis XVI will be the last official Bourbon losing his head in 1792.
There is a revolution, a few French Republics, and Napoleon in the mix as well.
To read more about the history of France, click here.
Lyon Specific History
Lyon remains a vital town from its early Roman days. During the Middle Ages to the Industrial Revolution, several “French” Duchys contain chunks of Italy.
The city benefits from the industrial fairs different Italian merchants are presenting.
Lyon has been the economic counting-house of France for at least the last 250 years. When international banking moves to Genoa, then Amsterdam, they still have to deal with Lyon.
The Best of Times, The Worst of Times.
The Renaissance is an incredible time for Lyon due to its connections with Italy and the silk industry.
Lyon is also a literary center due to its publishing industry.
The city thrives in the first half of the 1500s.
By the end of the 1500s, Lyon is the scene of mass violence in the St. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre. A plot by Catherine de’ Medici involves assassinations and mob violence by the French Catholics against the Huguenots (Protestants.) The Catholics kill more than 10,000 people across France. It ends by weakening the French Crown and prolonging the French Wars of Religion.
At the end of the 1700s, Lyon is again the scene of death and destruction during the French Revolution. For two months, the citizen armies besiege the city, killing and destroying many buildings, especially around the Place Bellecour.
A decade later, Napoleon will rebuild the structures demolished during this period.
By the 1800s, Lyon is a famous industrial town, with silk being one of the largest industries.
The World Wars
In the First World War, Lyon is far enough behind the lines not to receive much damage. It became a major logistics center with hospitals and a prisoner exchange.
During World War II, Lyon is a center for the occupying Nazi forces. It is where Klaus Barbie, the infamous “Butcher of Lyon,” leads the local Gestapo. He is responsible for nearly 14,000 deaths.
Lyon is a stronghold of the French Resistance, possibly why the significant Gestapo presence. There are still some of the secret passages (traboules) around the city. They would enable people to escape Gestapo raids. Today, there is a museum to the resistance.
Regions
By 1982, France creates regions to help decentralize government. On the mainland, there are twenty-one.
In 2016, to once again make government more manageable, they reduce the mainland regions to twelve by combining several. At this time, Auvergne combines with Rhône-Alpes.
Lyon Today
Similar to Paris, Lyon has arrondissements, smaller sections with their council, and city hall. Currently, there are nine with the first, second, and fourth making up much of the city center. The Old Town is in the fifth.
As the second most prosperous city in France, Lyon plays a vital role in the economics of France and Europe. High-tech industries, including biotechnology, life sciences, software, and video game development, are on the rise. Other leading sectors include medical research and technology and large industries.
The good news is that tourism is an integral part of the economy, but it is not the largest. More than 50% of visitors come for business. That does not mean the sites are empty, far from it, but they usually do not experience the stupid-busy crowds. Four festivals do see a spike in people.
The Nuits Sonores is an electronic music festival, usually in May.
The Nuits de Fourvière is a summer music and performance festival taking place in the ancient theater and Odeon.
The Biennale d’art contemporary (contemporary arts and dance) is usually for several months in the fall.
The Fête des lumières is usually the first Saturday in December for four days with incredible Christmas light displays.
What is in Lyon for me?
See & Hear.
The Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, That alone is worth taking a closer look. Or ride one of the funiculars up the hill for a view over the city.
Another option is to sit in a square, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Lyon has, at last count, 17 Michelin-star restaurants. It is redundant to say, as everywhere in France is a culinary destination, but bring an appetite. If you don’t, the smells from the boulangerie (bakery) will fix that.
Feel.
Sit at a cafe in the Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon.) Sip a café latté and plan your day as the city wakes up around you.
Will you explore the old section with its hilly streets and cathedral? Or explore one of the award-winning museums?
There may be better ways to start your day, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should-see in Old Lyon.
Vieux Lyon
Let’s begin in the old section, the fifth Arrondissement, which today includes UNESCO World Heritage Site status.
Passerelle du Palais de Justice
This pedestrian bridge links the Palais de Justice with the second Arrondissement across the river.
Le poids de soi-même (The Weight of Oneself.)
To the left of the bridge is this classic yet modern statue. Dating from 2013 by two sculptures, it shows a man carrying another man. fraternite? Look closer, and you will see he is holding himself.
Palais de justice historique de Lyon
The Palace of Justice, dating from 1845, is one of the most excellent examples of neo-classical architecture in France. The trial of Klaus Barbie took place here in 1987
Walk to the rear of the Palais and turn right on Rue Saint-Jean, a pedestrian street. After two long blocks, you will come to the small square Pl. du Change.
La Maison Thomassin
At number 2 to your right, is one of the oldest homes in Lyon. Parts of the ground floor date from 1298, although the facade dates from refurbishing circa 1493. The third and fourth floors were also part of the 1493 remodeling. The section to the right that does not look quite like the rest is an addition from the 1800s. Check out the original door to the pharmacy in the right corner.
Temple du Change
The first Loge du Change, dating from 1631, was sitting on the same site as this 1748 building. It may still include parts of the original structure. Across the Pl. du Change from the La Maison Thomassin, this beautiful neo-classic is the stock exchange until the revolution. The city assigns it to the Protestants for a church in 1803, making it a temple.
Walk to the rear of the temple and turn left onto Rue de Gadagne. Walk to the first small square, approximately one block.
Musée Gadagne
On your right in a circa 1527 private home, is not one but two museums. The building has undergone many renovations, including a large one in 1998 lasting ten years.
The Maison des Avocats has been housing the Historical Museum of Lyon since 1924. The museum includes archaeological remains, paintings, sculptures, furniture, and pottery tracing Lyon’s cultural history.
This building is also the location of the Musée des Arts de la Marionnette (World Puppet Museum) since 1950. Focusing on the Guignol (lead puppet in French exhibition), it presents a beautiful window into the art.
Le Petit Musee de Guignol Fantastique
You will pass this on your way to the Temple du Change on Rue Saint-Jean. It is a block down (east) of the Musee Gadagne. You enter via a puppet shop, which makes me think the museum is an afterthought. For a fee, you can listen to general information on puppets from around the world while watching videos. I prefer the World Puppet Museum.
As you come out of the Musee, turn right (south) and take a few steps. You are now on (in) Place du Petit Collège. At the south end (where it gets narrow again,) it becomes Rue du Bœuf.
Rue du Boeuf.
For the next several blocks (200 yards), most of the buildings are from the 1500-1600s. They began as private homes. By the 1800s, there were more than 140 silk workshops along the streets.
When you get to the corner of Boeuf and Patate, (just joking) Boeuf and Place Neuve Saint-Jean, stop. Look ahead of you at the building on the far left-hand side. On the corner of the building, about 10 feet up, is the namesake for this street.
Traboules
Meaning to cross or transit, in Lyon, these refer to hidden passageways. They “cross” between the streets parallel to the river. Roads were often narrow, twisting, or invisible to slow down invaders.
The first traboules probably date to the 4th century at the bottom of Fourvière hill. The inhabitants did not have running water, so they came up with a safe, quick way to access the river. Later, so the silk-workers, (canuts) can go quickly between their workshops and the textile merchants at the bottom.
Later, many of the houses will become housing for the poor. In WWII, the traboules become an essential tool for the resistance to strike the nazis and then disappear.
Today around 40 are open to the public during certain hours, thanks to the city. Many others are private entrances to homes, and the underground ones have become storage. The best way to see these are with a local guide.
Traboule “Maison (House) du Crible – Tour Rose
At 16 rue du Boeuf is part of the UNESCO Historic Site of Lyon. This 16th-century building was originally the Maison du Crible. The pink tower shows the wealth of the family, who were tax collectors.
At one time, there were several traboule connecting to the Maison. Now, the Maison has a new owner and a different company has a food experience in the traboule. Last time I was there, before these two new owners, you could visit between 10- noon and 2:00 – 4:00 pm.
27 Rue du Boeuf – The Longest Traboules
A little further along Rue du Boeuf on the left side, you will find #27. Give the door a gentle push. Behind it is the town’s longest traboule connecting to 54 Rue St Jean. Not all traboules are still open. I recommend checking with a local or local guide for which ones are always accessible.
Walk to the end of Rue du Boeuf. Welcome to one of Lyon’s confusing intersections. Look left that is Rue de la Bombard. Look right, and you are looking at Montée du Chemin Neuf. Across the street, what should be the continuation of Rue du Boeuf is Rue Tramassac. Cross over to Rue Tramassac and continue along its left side. Walk to the first street on the left, Rue de la Brèche. Turn left.
Place Saint-Jean
The square in front of you is Place Saint-Jean. You are at the furthest point from the church that offers an unobstructed view (photo) of the church.
Fountaine Saint-Jean
In the center of the place is the 1844 fountain by Rene Dardel. His inspiration is a small well 2 minutes away at 37 rue St-Jean, (left of the church.) Designing the fountain in the Renaissance style, it has a small ancient temple with a scene inside. This scene is St John the Baptist baptizing Christ.
Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste
Construction begins in 1180 on the site of a previous 6th-century church. It takes almost 300 years to complete, which is why it contains both Romanesque and Gothic Architecture. The Duke of Bourbon Charles II and his brother build an impressive chapel on the church. The cathedral also has a 14th-century Astronomical Clock, which is no longer running.
Jardin Archéologique
Facing the front of the cathedral, walk down the left side. Here you will find a few remains of the 5th-century cathedral and its baptistery.
Return to the front of the church and walk past the front (on your left) heading south. When you come to Rue Jean Carries, continue forward across the street on the right side. The third building on your right is the funicular station. Turn in. I recommend taking the train F 2 to Fourvière.
La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière
The basilica is somewhat hard to miss as you exit the station. This minor basilica dates from 1884 and sits on top of what was the Roman forum of Trajan. Forum Vetus, (old forum) eventually becomes Four Viere. The basilica has a great view of the city from its lofty perch. But go inside.
This church is not a dark old building. On a sunny day, the light inside will amaze you. The gold leaf reflecting off of half of the surfaces does not hurt.
If you do not mind stairs, well a pretty incredible but strenuous staircase, there is a rooftop tour some afternoons. (345 stairs to climb.) You will get many different views of the church and city. I highly recommend reservations.
SPOILER ALERT: The public tour is in French. Knowing this ahead of time, I was there for the views, and they did not disappoint. Private tours in English are available for groups up to 15.
Metallic Tower of Fourvière
As you exit the basilica, look to your right. You will see something trying to look like the Eiffel Tower. The Metallic Tower is three years younger than the tour in Paris and has a design by Eugène Colonge. You can see several nods to Mr. Eiffel in its design. However, the tower in Lyon stands 282 feet, where the Tour de Eiffel is 984 feet, not including its antenna.
The tower sits on the spot where a former Chinese pavilion once stood. During the 1894 International and Colonial Exhibition, it hosts a 24-seat restaurant and elevator. Today, the tower is an antenna, and not open to the public and, in my opinion, looks better from further away. The lighting at night is beautiful.
Musée d’Art Religieux de Fourvière
Housing the basilicas treasures from hundreds of years; this is another excellent way to see old Lyon. The museum is to the right of the basilica in a separate building behind the Rectorat.
Walk back to the funicular station, but turn left and follow Rue Roger Radisson (a French resistance fighter, not the hotel), which is on top of a Roman road. I recommend walking on the right side. Just past the large Y in the street, cross Rue Radisson.
Lugdunum
Lugdunum Museum (formally the Gallo-Roman Museum)
Part of the archeological (and UNESCO) site of Lugdunum, the museum has an impressive collection of artifacts. There is also the speech that hometown boy Claudius gives in 48 A.D. He later becomes the Roman emperor. The museum has interesting hands-on exhibits for people with vision problems.
Roman Theater
The Roman or “large theater,” is the oldest theater (so far) in Roman Gaul. It is one of the largest, similar to the theater of Autun, and Vienne to the south. As the city kept growing, they had to add the third (highest) level doubling the capacity to 10,000 spectators.
In the summer, music and dance performances take place during the Nuits de Fourvière festival.
Roman Odeon
Next to the large theater, this smaller venue was typically for political meetings, declamations, and occasional concerts. Odeons appear in critical (political) cities, and there are very few in this part of the empire. The initial stage is missing, a victim to ancient D.I.Y. people carting it off as building material. However, miraculously, they left the floor of the orchestra. Remember, there are no Tiles-R-Us (or next day delivery) in those days. Stones from all over the Roman Republic make up a rather modern design. The green comes from Greece, the red from Egypt, the purple from Asia Minor, and the yellow from Africa.
Thermes antiques de Lyon
My feelings on this site usually turn to anger. To visit, you need to exit the Lugdunum site onto Place des Minimes and turn right. Walk until the road curves to the right. You will see two staircases to your right. The one on the left is longer (higher). Of course, that’s the one you want. At the top, you will see arcades (breezeways) to your right going under the building. Pass through the breezeway, and you are in the middle of the few remains of the baths. The walk takes around five minutes. That does not make me mad.
The site has no signs or markings, but that doesn’t make me mad. The newer building, a college, is sitting on thousands of years of history. NOW, my temperature is rising. Just about every city in Europe is sitting on ancient sites, yes and I know this. But here it is so apparent.
Temple de Cybèle
Above the large theater are the few remains of this temple. There is little information, and from the ground, it is hard to make out any design or layout. The Romans were worshipping Cybele as the Magna Mater (Great Mother.) Her festival in April would include theatrical productions and hippodrome races.
Saint-Just
Adjacent to Fourviere is this charming neighborhood. It has several bits and pieces from the Roman period but no real stand-alone sites. Unfortunately, the few it does require a zigzag path up or down to reach the next. As they may appear in a guide or on a map, here are a few.
Aqueduc du Gier
There are a few pieces of supports remaining but no complete arches or any of the water channels remaining. There are better examples of aqueducts elsewhere, including the du Gier outside of town.
La fontaine de Claude
Dating from circa 48 A.D., it sounds promising. It includes a Roman fountain, a cyclops head, and an inscription to Emperor Claude. In reality, it is less than five feet high, and it is easy to miss. By itself, it just does not have the wow factor.
Tombeau de Turpio
The most exciting of the three is a set of ten funerary monuments. However, much like the fountain, unless you know where to look, you drive right past them. There are no signs or descriptions.
Church of Saint-Just
To me, the most scenic site in Saint-Just is its church, but it is not a Roman artifact. Little of the original 1591 church remains. What you see are the post-revolution renovations. They offer concerts on the renovated organ from time to time. The church is opposite the Thermes antiques.
Other Sites Around the Fifth.
Museum of Miniature and Cinema
What is Lyon’s link to Cinema? The Lumiere Brothers invent the Cinématographe motion picture system in Lyon. They show a “motion” picture for the first time circa 1895.
The museum, to me, is a look into many things dating from before digital. It shows off the prosthetic and make-up artists, costume designers, set builders, special effects modelers, and animatronic technicians. You can see the tricks, techniques, and incredible skills behind the scenes. There is a restoring shop for film props and objects.
Also, there are the miniatures, many by local Dan Ohlmann. The museum is in the Maison des Avocats, a 16th-century building and on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Église Saint-Georges (Church of St. George)
On the river adjacent to the Passerelle St Georges (pedestrian bridge) is this 1848 Gothic Revival church. It sits on the site of previous churches dating back to 550 A.D. I think the best view is from the bridge.
Between The Rivers
Arrondissements one (north) and Two (south) make up the area in between the rivers. I would like to say there is a clear line where the two separate, but there’s not. It appears to be in the middle of someone’s living room just north of Église Saint-Nizier de Lyon. So we will use the church and all points south when discussing Arrondissement 2.
Arrondissement 1.
Église Saint-Nizier de Lyon
Although “officially in the 2nd Arrondissement, let’s use it as a starting point. It is incredible Lyon has so many churches considering Christianity did not get off to a great start in Lyon. Possibly on the site of a Roman monument, the Bishop of Lyon builds a basilica. Besides for services, it is to store the relics of the Christian martyrs from circa 177 A.D. The remains of several bishops are here as well. The remnants of Nicetius of Lyon, (circa 553) attract many pilgrims due to the great miracles they are causing. They rebuild it in the 9th, 14th-6th, and again in the 19th century. Go on a bright day for the stained-glass.
Walk west two blocks to the river. From here, you get a great view of Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste and the Metallic Tower. Turn right and follow Quai de la Pêcherie. I like walking on the riverside as you get a better perspective of the French architecture on the buildings. Walk under the first bridge with traffic. The second bridge, a pedestrian one, is our next reference point. With the pedestrian bridge behind you, look to your left. There is a 7-story light mustard color building. Walk to the far left end of the building and look back.
Fresque des Lyonnais
This 1995 mural depicts people who were responsible for shaping the history of Lyon. Spreading more than 2000 years of Lyon’s history, it’s a fun who-is-who from ancient Rome to modern-day. Some of the people include:
On level one, with the blue silk is Joseph-Marie Jacquard (1752-1834) inventor of the Jacquard loom.
Level two on the right is Jean de Verrazane (1460?-1528) an explorer for the French King Francois I. New Yorkers may know the Italian pronunciation of his name better, Giovanni de Verrazzano. Notice there are no real windows on this side of the building.
Then walk around to the back (left) side of the building.
Here you will find more than 20 additional Lyonnais, and no real doors or windows. This site is great to see with a local guide who has the backstories.
NOTE:
There is a fresque (fresco) to the silk workers, Mur des Canuts, in the 6th Arrondissement.
Turn around and take the crosswalk to the other side of Rue de la Martinière and follow Place St Vincent. It will take you to Rue Sergent Blandan, turn right. Follow this until you reach the park on the left. There is no name (I can find) to this park, but the statue in the middle is Sergent Blandan. He receives the Legion of Honor, posthumously, for his historical resistance in Algeria circa 1842.
At the far end of the park is a set of stairs. Our goal is at the top of the steps. Our next goal is the set of steps above the first.
Auguste Burdeau Memorial
At the top of the second flight of stairs is a white marble monument. It is in honor of Auguste Burdeau, a local son of a laborer, who would go on to hold many cabinet positions.
Amphitheatre des Trois Gaules
Across the street (please use crosswalks) from the Burdeau memorial is another bitter-sweet Roman remain. The Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls (what remains of it) dates from circa 17 A.D. and indicates Lyon’s status as an Imperial province to Rome. Although the rediscover the structure circa 1820, they allow urban sprawl to steamroll over the southern part. It would be one of the sites where the persecution of Christians was taking place.
From the crosswalk, there is a sidewalk through the park to the left of the amphitheater. Follow that to the top left corner of the park. Use the crosswalk and walk up the left side of the building in front of you. Turn right at the first street, Rue Neyret.
Church of The Good Shepherd
Another bitter-sweet site as today, no one seems to want to claim it. The structure, dating from 1879, is in a Romanesque style similar to the technique builders use in Poitiers. The facade is fantastic, however, and here is where some of my bitter enters, you can’t see it. There is no open space in front of the church. The rest of the sour is, you cannot see the inside. The Catholic church departs circa 1984. The school across the street uses it for a gallery for a short time. It is a historical landmark, so the city is the owner? But take a look, from across the street as you pass by on the way to our next stop.
Continue along Rue Neyret (without warning it becomes Rue Imbert-Colomes) two long blocks to Rue Pouteau. Turn left and walk to the bottom of the enormous staircase in front of you. Turn right following the street, which is now Rue Diderot.
Traboule de la cour des Voraces
Some say this is the most famous traboule in Lyon. Dating from 1840, it is the site of Canut (silk worker) revolts. You will find access at #9 Rue Diderot.
Retrace your steps back to Rue Imbert-Colomes. This time you do not turn but cross the street and go down the steps. Continue forward to the top of the next staircase.
Passage Thiaffait
Dating from circa 182his 1827 traboule has curves, steps, the works. And the steps are downward thanks to your guide. The passage belongs to the UNESCO World Heritage Site. As you exit through the lower archway, you can get a snap of the passage’s name over the arch. You exit onto Rue Rene Leynaud. Turn left.
Église Saint-Polycarpe
A block down on your left is this Catholic church with, I think, an impressive facade. The church, dates from circa 1670, and the façade from 1756.
Just beyond the church is Passage Marmet. You can take a look, but I think Thiaffait has more charm.
With the church door to your back, head down place du Forez. When you get to the round square (you will understand when you see it), look for cars first. Then turn around. You can get a better view of the church’s facade. Continue down Rue Saint-Polycarpe. Yes, the name did change.
On your left, in the next block, you will pass the massive doors to the Bibliothèque (library for) 1st Arrondissement. At the end of the street, turn right on Rue Romarin. It will bend left in the next block. Walk to the end.
Place Des Terreaux
The area may be part of a monastic community dating back to circa 650 A.D. During the Renaissance (1300-1500s), it is a place for markets. As the town grows up around it, they finally pave it circa the 1700s.
Today, it is the living room of Lyon attracting people day and night.
Fontaine Bartholdi
The French sculptor, Frédéric Bartholdi, presents this beautiful fountain circa 1892. It symbolizes the Garonne River. Wait, there are two rivers in Lyon, and that’s not one of them. The sculpture was initially for the city of Bordeaux. When they saw the price tag, they did not take it. Lyon got it on sale. You may know the artist’s other works, including a lady in New York Harbor.
Hôtel de Ville de Lyon
At the east end of the Place Des Terreaux is the City Hall. The original building dates from circa 1651. A fire 20 years later destroys much of the original. It will take 20 more years before they have the funds to rebuild it. Then in 1803, another fire destroys it again. Tours are available through the Lyon Office de Tourisme.
The Royal Abbey of the Sisters of St. Pierre
The grand palace, the southern side of the square, began as an abbey for nuns from high aristocratic families. The French Revolution and the suppression of religious congregations put an end to the nuns in the convent. By a miracle, they do not destroy the palace along with other religious structures. The city moves the stock exchange into the empty building. With the addition of the of public education and trade.
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon
Today, the museum of fine arts fills the entire building. The collections include ancient Egyptian antiquities through to Modern art. It is one of the largest museums in France and one of the most important in Europe. Works by Rodin, Renoir, Cézanne, Van Gogh, Correggio, El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt, Matisse, Picasso, Braque, and more are on display.
Opéra National de Lyon
Behind the city hall is the 1993 opera house in the facade of the 1831 theater. The season runs November through June. Tours (in French) are on Saturdays. Tours in English are available on a private basis for groups up to 20.
From the Place des Terreaux, walk down either street on the side of the museum south. The starting point, Church of Saint Nizier, is a five-minute walk.
Arrondissement 2.
Starting from the same point, facing the Church of Saint Nizier, turn right and walk one block south to Rue de la Poulaillerie. Turn left. Walk 1 1/2 blocks.
Museum of Printing and Graphic Communication
The museum is in a Renaissance building, which was Lyon’s first city hall until 1655. Here is an exciting presentation of written communication from the last 500 years. The permanent collection includes a page from a Gutenburg Bible, (circa 1450) and several treasures from the 1500-1600s.
Turn left (carefully) when exiting the museum. Walk to the end of the street.
Palais de la Bourse, Lyon
With the 1860 inauguration by Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie, the building in front of you became the Palace of Commerce. Original tenants include shops, change agents, silk brokers, the Chamber of Commerce, and a museum of art and industry. The most impressive facades are on the north (Place de la Bourse) and south (Place des Cordeliers.) Today it houses a mixture of offices, including the Chamber of Commerce. Take a look inside at the central hall.
Return to Rue de la République on the west side, and with your back to the palace, turn left. Across Place des Cordeliers, it becomes a broad pedestrian street. As you cross, look right, because you want to see oncoming cars. Also, there is a beautiful view of the cathedral on the hill across the river.
Walk five short blocks to Place de la Republique where the street widens. This walk will take less than five minutes. Or the rest of the day, depending on how many shoppers in your group. Turn right on Rue Jean de Tournes, just past Printemps Department Store. I said, turn past, not turn in. At the next corner, you come to a lovely square.
Place des Jacobins.
Circa 1296, the Jacobins build a convent in this area. And it is a place of history. The 1316 election of Pope Jacques Duèze (John XXII) takes place here. Thirty-two years later, the last Dauphin of Vienne, Humbert II, assigns his States to the Duke of Normandy’s son. After his march across I Italy, King Charles VIII lives here briefly.
King Henri II orders a central square circa 1556. As the city grows, streets come and go changing the size and shape of the area.
What you see today are buildings from circa 1860 while the fountain dates to 1885. With 11 streets leading to or from the square, it is always busy. It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for Lyon.
You came into the square at the northeast corner. You want to exit from the southwest corner on Rue Jean Fabre.
Walk one block and take the fork in the road to the left. Walk one more block.
Célestins Theater of Lyon
The name comes from a circa 1407 convent and church of the Celestine order. The land is a donation from a future Pope who takes it from the Templars. The 1877 theater you see today is the second one on this site. The first theater dates from 1792. It is one of only three theaters in France with more than 200 years of continuous performances. There have been appearances by Sarah Bernhardt, Joséphine Baker, and productions by Jean Cocteau, Samuel Beckett, Bertolt Brecht, and more.
With the theater to your back, walk up Rue des Archers (ahead of you) to the first street, Rue Émile-Zola. Turn right and walk to the end of the road.
Place Bellecour
There are signs of Roman huts, although the area was a swampy delta area between the rivers. Circa 1200, the archbishop of Lyon, was growing wine grapes here. By 1715, it becomes the Place Royale.
During the French Revolution, it is the place de la Fédération and a place for public executions. Circa 1800, Napoleon I, lays the foundation stone for new construction, and the square bears his name. The current name, Place Bellecour, comes from the Third Republic. The square receives considerable bombing in WWII.
The equestrian statue is of Louis XIV and dates from 1825. The square is the largest pedestrian-only square in France, hosting many events throughout the year.
Clocher de Hôpital de la Charité de Lyon
This 1677 bell tower is all that remains of the 1622 Hôpital de la Charité (charity hospital.) While they are tearing down the hospital, the citizens rally to save the tower.
Follow Rue de la Charite, the street between the bell tower and Place Bellecour to the south, away from the square. Follow this for approximately three blocks.
Musee des Tissus et des Arts Décoratifs
At number 34 on your right are two beautiful, once private, mansions, each with its museum. The textile (Tissus) museum has more than 2 million units of textiles dating back more than 4000 years. It covers the world but has a special section for the local silk industry.
The Musee des Arts Décoratifs includes furniture, pottery, jewelry, painting, sculpture, and more.
Departing the museums, turn right and go to the first street, Rue des Remparts d’Ainay, and turn right.
Place Ampère
Roman relics indicate that there have been people in this vicinity for some time. The first formal square dates from 1828. The current square dates from 1976 with the building of the metro through the area.
The 1888 statue is of André-Marie Ampère, one of the fathers of electromagnetism. The ampere, a unit of measurement of electric current, bears his name.
Along the east side of the square is Rue Victor Hugo. Follow it south two blocks.
Place Carnot
There has been a square here since circa 1810, and it has many names to show for it. The current name is for Lazare Carnot, a noted mathematician, and politician. He was part of the scheme leading to the arrest of Robespierre. He also gave Napoleon his first command.
Statue of the Republic
On a broad base stands a larger than life woman (Marianne) representing the Republic. She strokes the head of a lion with her right hand. In the other, she holds out an olive branch in peace.
Other Sites Around the Second.
Paroisse Catholique Saint Martin d’Ainay
Two blocks west of Place Ampère, this church began as a Benedictine monastery circa 859. It becomes an abbey circa 1100 and by the Renaissance, has a palace, vineyard, and a private dock. The castle is a casualty of the French revolution. What you see today is a circa 1800s restoration in the Romanesque Revival style.
Eglise Sainte Blandine
Two blocks south of the Lyon Perrache railway station, on the beautiful Cours Charlemagne, sits this 1888 Neo-gothic church. The church is famous for the number of stained-glass windows. Also, The church hosts a weeknight contemporary praise and concert program with the pop-praise band Glorious.
Église Saint-Bonaventure
Across the street from the Palais de la Bourse, this Franciscan church dates from circa 1327. The current facade dates from circa 1806. It survives destruction in the revolution, becoming a grain storehouse until resuming as a church in the 1800s.
Musée des Confluences
Where the rivers join, this modern museum blends science and anthropology to tell the story of humanity. Besides being a fascinating museum, it has impressive views of the city from the cafe on the top floor.
Great Synagogue of Lyon
A five-minute walk from Place Bellecour, the Great Synagogue, is along the Saone river. The original neo-Byzantine buildings date from circa 1864.
The only renovation dates from 2014. A June 1944 surprise raid by the French militia, captures many of the congregation and deports them to Auschwitz. Three months later, the Allies arrive liberating Lyon. Most European Synagogues allow visitors with previous reservations.
Hôtel-Dieu de Lyon
The structure begins as an inn for both traveling and local clergy members circa 1184, Circa 1454, they hire a doctor, and it soon becomes a fully functional hospital. It would remain a hotel until 2010. Today it is a deluxe hotel and a separate gourmet food court.
Outside Central Lyon
Tony Garnier Urban Museum
Local architect Tony Garnier designs this urban social housing project that opens in 1934. By 1985 it is in pressing need of updating. The residents want artwork. They paint 25 enormous murals with a theme of Tony Garnier, his works, and his ideal city on the buildings. In 1991, the project won the UNESCO “World Decade for Cultural Development” award. From the visitor center, you can pick up an audio guide before walking between the buildings.
Church of Saint Pothinus of Lyon
Sitting in the 6th Arrondissement, this circa 1843 church resembles a Greek temple. There are several stained-glass windows by Lucien Bégule and his son Emile, some depicting the church founders.
Musée Lumière
Today, a family house and part of the first hanger (studio) are all that remain of the unique studio property. From the studio, a modern museum grows, showing insight into French cinema history. For an additional cost, you can also tour the family house, which becomes the offices of the studio.
Centre d’histoire de la resistance et de la deportation
“Capital of the Resistance” is the name General Da Gaulle gives Lyon. Today the museum is in the former military Health College. From 1942 the building is Gestapo headquarters. They use the cellars for cells and interrogation rooms. The Allied bombings of 1944 put an end to the use of the building. The museum covers commitment, propaganda, information, and a section on Klaus Barbie, leader of the Gestapo.
Institut d’art contemporain de Villeurbanne
Just outside the 3rd Arrondissement to the east, is the contemporary art museum. The drive from the city center is approximately 20-minutes depending on traffic.
Even Further Afield
Aqueduc du Gier
Dating from circa 50 A.D., the Aqueduct of the Gier is one of four providing water for Lugdunum. Although there are some small pieces in Lyon, the best part is near Chaponost, 20-minutes west of town. With a section over 500 yards long, It is the longest section of an aqueduct in France.
Domaine de Lacroix-Laval
25-minutes drive northwest of Lyon is this 16th-century castle, with numerous alterations, circa 1739 and again in 1919. The residence is only open for special events. You can see the exterior and stroll the grounds, which now make up the Parc de Lacroix-Laval.
Musée de l’automobile Henri Malartre
30- minutes drive along the Saone river is Henri Malartre’s museum. The collection is impressive, with over one hundred cars that date from 1892 until today. There are motorcycles, sidecars, public transport vehicles, and more. For vehicle fans, also check out the Fire Brigade Museum (Musée des Sapeurs-Pompiers.) The museum is a 20-minute drive north of the city and includes 12 vehicles going back 100 years.
Lyon Summary
One more gripe, so many of the websites in France do not have a version in English (or American.)
When you get out of Paris, many of the sites and museums also have very few English signs or descriptions.
I am not saying skip France, but I do recommend an excellent guide, either in print or a professional one.
Guides can add another dimension to a location.
Do not pass through Lyon racing from Paris to the Mediterranian. Stop and see what you are missing.