Table of Contents:
Honfleur comes from the Vikings and means estuary on the horn, or something similar.
Ancient History.
Although signs show humans here circa 400,000 BC., and during the Neolithic period (10,000–4,500 BC), the picture is incomplete.
There are signs of Celts and Roman towns along the estuary, but details pre 800 B.C. are vague.
Honfleur Not so Ancient.
The first written record of Honfleur is around 1027. However, the Vikings were arriving on France’s north shores beginning in the 800s.
It’s position on the south bank of the Seine, makes it a natural port over the marshy north bank. By the 1100s, the city docks are a central shipping point for goods from Rouen, approximately 45 miles upriver. Many of these goods are going to England, just across the channel.
In addition to the sea providing trading and abundant seafood, the farmland around Honfleur contains rich soil.
Who Is on First?
The House of Plantagenet, dating from the 12th century, is ruling a large portion of northwest France.
Circa 1128, the ruling Plantagenet, Geoffrey, Count of Anjou, marries Empress Matilda. She is the last blood descendant of King Henry I of England. When Henry dies circa 1135, Matilda becomes the Queen of England, sort of.
The British side of the family will eventually create splinter (cadet) branches as it divides kingdoms between heirs. The House of Lancaster and the House of York being two of these cadet branches.
While Matilda is dealing with her relatives, the French side of the family captures the neighboring Kingdom of Normandy.
At the same time, in France, the Capetian Dynasty (Kingdom of France) is having growing pains of its own.
The third son of Philip III of France and Isabella of Aragon, Charles, Count of Valois, is bored. With no clear shot at the throne, he breaks off and begins the Valois cadet branch.
This version is the history-101 lesson of the French and English Thrones leading up to 1300. There are many marriages, betrayals, illegitimate offspring, and battles, making it more of a Jenga game.
The Hundred Years’ War.
Around 1325, Charles, Count of Valois, and last living male sibling of the French King, dies.
Three years later, his brother Charles IV, the last House of Capet king of France, dies without a son.
Philip VI of France is the son of Charles, Count of Valois, and brother of the dead King.
Edward III of England is the son of Isabella, Queen consort of England, and sister of the dead King.
We have two nephews of the dead King and first cousins to each other. Guess who the French support as the King?
To sum up the Hundred-year war in seven words: cousin rivalry and the British in France.
England has Guyenne and Gascony (western France), thanks to the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Henry II.
The English keep attempting to take Flanders (northern Belgium), which the French also failed to obtain.
Edward III still thinks they should have Normandy and Valois.
And what does any of this have to do with Honfleur?
Honfleur and the War.
Honfleur benefits from the war due to its strategic position. Circa 1364, Charles V of France, (Philip IV grandson) ascends to the throne. He wastes no time turning the tide and taking back several areas from the British.
He strengthens the defenses of Honfleur and builds a second fort across the river in Harfleur.
The port becomes a major supply route for France.
In 1357, the British occupy Honfleur. The port becomes a major supply route for England.
The French will regain the town circa 1419.
Despite its importance to the supply chain, Honfleur never sees any of the significant fightings. Caen, 40 miles to the west, and Rouen, 45 miles to the east, will be scenes of significant battles.
After the war (1453), Honfleur becomes a major French port trading with countries all over the Baltic.
The 1500s and 1600s.
Several of the French explorers set out from Honfleur. Departing in 1503, navigator Binot Gonneville heading for the East Indies probably ends up in Brazil.
King Francis I, looking for a military harbor, begins draining the area across the Seine around 1517. He sees the need to protect the river opening, and the south bank is showing some signs of silting.
With a port, a town soon follows, Franciscopolis. This city will later become Le Havre.
Samuel de Champlain departs Honfleur circa 1603 on his first of 21+ trips across the Atlantic. He will establish the city of Quebec and explore Arcadia.
This exploration establishes a thriving trade with Canada and the West Indies.
The Protestant Reformation, beginning in the 1500s, does not affect Honfleur much until 1547 and King Henry on the throne. The conflict between Catholics and Protestants disrupts supply routes to and from Honfleur on and off. The violence never reaches the levels of nearby Le Havre.
The War of Religions will go on far into the next century.
By the middle of the 1600s, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, the First Minister of State, will develop Honfleur even more. This enhancement includes tearing down the walls in Honfleur.
Honfleur The Late 1600s.
The great cash-making import in French ports is slaves from West Africa. From Honfleur and nearby Le Havre, they ship the slaves to French Haiti (Saint-Domingue) and Louisiana. The French will send almost 800,000 Africans to Haiti.
This amount is nearly double the number of slaves the British will import to the colonies (later the United States.)
Three Strikes.
Circa 1786, King Louis XVI, approves plans to almost quadruple the size of Le Havre. Soon it is the second-largest port in France.
Honfleur becomes a backup port to Le Havre by the time of the French Revolution.
By 1804, the new republic of the Revolution falls, and the First French Empire, under Napoleon, begins. Napoleon takes on Europe.
Circa 1806, Napoleon calls for the Continental Blockade of England. By now, most of the trading going in and out of Honfleur is with English ports. The blockade is devastating to Honfleur. Strike two.
Honfleur never really recovers as a port. Also, silting begins to block the entrance to the port, limiting the size of vessels that can enter. Strike three.
The Back Seat.
Honfleur takes a back seat to Le Havre as a port.
At the turn of the century, it does not receive a large number of Parisians coming to the seashore. Direct trains from Paris to Le Havre play a large part in that.
Honfleur drops off the international map.
In the 1940s, this works to their advantage.
Although the Germans take control of the town in 1940, Honfleur is not a target on the Allie’s map. Supply ships cannot access the harbor, and it does not have the rail system of Le Havre.
By August of 1944, British, Belgium, and Canadian troops march into Honfleur, finding a town remarkably intact.
Honfleur Today.
Unfortunately, the population has been slowly dropping since the war. The most recent census reports just over 7,000 residents.
The younger population is moving to larger cities where there is a wider choice of jobs.
There are a small fishing industry and boating community that provides some employment. Some commute to Le Havre, 30 minutes away, for work in other fields.
Tourism and hospitality are the largest employers in the area.
What is in Honfleur for me?
See & Hear.
Visitors can stroll the 17th-century harbor admiring the 15th- and 16th-century buildings.
Another option is to sit at a harbor cafe, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Honfleur is in Normandy, and there is a local fishing fleet. There are incredible dishes and local products to smell and taste.
Feel.
The landscapes around Honfleur have been the inspiration for artists, including Monet, Seurat, and others.
Sip a glass of local cider with a piece of Camembert and picture yourself in a painting.
You are contemplating your day of nearby castles, Calvados, and William the Conqueror.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon in Normandy, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should-see in Honfleur.
Le Vieux Bassin (Old Harbor.)
Carrousel de Honfleur – Since 1995, this is a seasonable landmark. From May until October, this two-story carousel entertains children and adults. Look and listen for it on Quai de la Quarantaine at the northeast end of the old harbor.
La Lieutenance. – cross the bridge to your right (harbor on the left) This 17th-century stone structure on your left was once the former home of the King’s lieutenant (governor) of Caen. It was one of two entrances into the medieval village and part of the city walls.
Saint Catherine’s church – One building beyond the lieutenance, you will see the spire of Catherine’s Church on your left. The construction of the double-roof is almost entirely out of wood. The structure, dating to the 15th century, is the work of local shipbuilders. If you do not believe me, go inside and look up at the twin naves. Remind you of anything?
Clocher Sainte-Catherine (bell tower) is behind and separate from the church for fire reasons. This tower of oak construction is now an annex of the Musée Eugène Boudin. It features sacred works of art, ornaments, and other religious articles.
And We Are Walking.
Follow the Rue du Dauphin (closest to the harbor) away from the church, keeping the port to your left. You will pass patisseries, chocolate, and ham shops, and I do not fault you if you stop in every one. Warning, the Rue de Dauphin curves to the left at the Y, do not go straight, right.
The first street you come to is Rue de la République. Turn left and walk down to the water’s edge. See a building on the right of the harbor with a pointed steeple? The Sainte-Etienne church is home to the naval museum, your next stop.
Rue de la Republique is now Rue Montpensier. You will be coming back here after the subsequent two visits.
Musée de la Marine – has a collection of models, paintings, engravings, and various objects from local maritime history. It is an excellent glimpse into the life of Honfleur seafarers during the 18th and 19th centuries.
Musée d’Ethnographie. – This fascinating museum is in a half-timbered house from the 16th century. There are nine rooms (exhibits) with the furnishings and trappings of their theme. These include a haberdashery, weaver’s room, print shop, a bourgeois room, a young girl’s room, and more. As you face the front of the naval museum, take the street down the right side of the building.
Come, We Are Walking.
As you exit the naval or Ethnographie museums, turn left (harbor on your right) and return to Rue Montpensier. There is a sidewalk one building south of the museum and parallel to Montpensier. Turn left and follow this. At the next corner, STOP. Look to your right. Do you see the glass building across the street? This building is a great Office of Tourism.
Turn sharp left onto Rue de la Ville. Follow this charming street around the curve to the right. On your right, you will see two stone structures.
Grenier à sel d’Honfleur (salt granaries) – are the last two salt warehouses for the cod coming from Nova Scotia. These two structures date from 1670. Unfortunately, the city owns them and uses them for conferences and meetings, so you cannot go inside.
A few feet further on, on your left, is a tree-covered plaza. Walk into the square. In front of you are two white two-story buildings.
T
The City Hall at the corner of the harbor.
Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) – is the white building in the far right corner. This historic building dates to 1837, and on the far side of the building is the Carrousel, where you began.
To the East.
Starting at the glass Office of Tourism:
With the building in front of you, turn left.
Saint-Léonard Wash House – are just east of the Tourism office. Explore the remains of a public laundry for the St Leonard parish.
Eglise Saint Léonard (St Leonard’s Church) is behind the laundry. Take the steps behind and to the left of the laundry. Its claim to fame is the facade of Flamboyant Gothic, which is the only surviving part of the original building. The bell tower has a dome, which is unusual in Normandy. Check out the neighborhood as there are several half-timber houses.
Jardin du Tripot – This unique community garden quasi art park is a four-minute walk from the church. With the church front to your back, walk straight ahead down Rue Cachin to the first corner. There is no street sign, but there should be a sign for the Jardin on the far right. Turn right. Traffic will be coming at you, so stay on the sidewalks. The Jardin entrance is on your left, right before the next corner. When you exit, the tourism office is one block to the left.
To the West.
Starting at the La Lieutenance (Old wall gate):
Musée Eugène-Boudin de Honfleur – is a five-minute walk. This home town artist spent much of his time capturing local scenes. He was a friend of Monet and other top artists. Learn about him and other local artists. From the harbor, walk west on Place Hamlin until it splits. Take Rue de l’Homme de Bois to the left. The museum is three more minutes’ walk on your left.
Vieux Phare de Honfleur – is the “Hospital lighthouse” dating from 1857. It was in operation until 1908. Continue along Rue de l’Homme de Bois away from the harbor (west) until it splits. Keep to the right onto Rue du Trou Miard. You should be able to see the round lighthouse from here. Follow the street to the bottom. The lighthouse is on your left.
Naturospace Honfleur – is am indoor habitat featuring tropical plants. You may also see butterflies and colorful birds.
Le Jardin des Personnalités – sits behind the Naturospace, along the banks of the Seine. Several acres of manicured walkways also include busts of local celebrities.
Maison Satie – is the former home, now museum to French composer Erik Satie. The composer was very Avant-guard for his time, circa 1890-1920.
Fun Fact:
La Ferme Saint Siméon – today is a luxury Relais & Châteaux property. Circa 1840, the inn was home to several poor young artists. Mother Toutain, the innkeeper, took care of them like her own. This group would give rise to the Impressionist School of Honfleur, or School of Saint Simeon. The group includes Bazille, Boudin, Corot, Courbet, Daubigny, Dubourg, Jongkind, Monet, and many more. Visitors must have a dining or lodging reservation to enter.
Better By Car.
Chapelle Notre-Dame de Grâce – is on a hillside approximately ten minutes drive west of town. The current chapel dates to circa 1600. Many explorers, including Champlain, would pray here before departing.
Point De Vue Remarquable – is adjacent to the chapel. It offers panoramic views towards Le Havre, the Seine, and the English Channel. You can not see Honfleur from here.
Panorama du Mont-Joli – does offer views of Honfleur, buy not of Le Havre due to trees. It is on the way to or from the Point De Vue Remarquable.
Further Afield.
Caen is approximately 90 minutes from Rouen by car.
Bayeux is closer to two hours with traffic. The medieval center is cobblestone streets, houses of half-timber, and a towering, Norman-Gothic Cathedrale.
Omaha Beach and the other D-Day landing beaches are also two hours+ each way. I prefer to see them from a base in Bayeux or at least Caen. Caen is also an excellent base for those wishing to follow the camembert or cider (Calvados) trails.
Le Mont St Michelle is a Gothic masterpiece in western Normandy.
Mont Saint-Michel is a good three hours drive each way. I prefer to make it an overnight trip, using charming Saint-Malo for accommodations.
This location allows you to see it in the afternoon and morning (light) as well as at different tides.