SEE ANGERS (LOIRE VALLEY WEST)

Château d’Angers.

Starting as a 9th century fortress for the Counts of Anjou, what you see today is from the 13th century. The chateau houses the Apocalypse Tapestry.

Cathédrale Saint-Maurice d’Angers.

This Roman Catholic church dates from 1240, although there have been several reconstructions and additions. The pipe organ dates from 1617.

Le palais épiscopal d’Angers

On the north side of the cathedral is the former Episcopal (bishops) palace. The current building dates from the 12th century although there have been many restorations. Tours take place on Saturday afternoons but they are only in French.

Montée St-Maurice staircase.

This grand staircase leads from the cathedral down to the Pont de Verdun. At the bottom is a lovely fountain and promenade area. In the summer, artists are often painting images on the steps.

Pont de Verdun

In 1028, the Anjou count replaces a wooden structure with this stone bridge. At the time, it is the only bridge in this area.  

Place Saint-Éloi.

This square, east of Galerie David d’Angers and south of the cathedral always seem to have locals passing through. Dating from at least medieval times, it has several sites to see nearby.

Musée des Beaux-Arts.

On the Place Saint-Elol, this art museum is in the Logis Barrault, the city’s oldest (1493) private mansion. Marie de’ Medici will be one of its owners. The museum has two permanent collections, fine art between the 14th – 21st Century, and Angers history. Objects and exhibits cover the local area from the Neolithic period to the present day.

Saint Aubin Tower

At the south end of the square is this imposing bell tower from the 12th century. It was part of the 6th-century Benedictine abbey of Saint-Aubain that was in this area. During the revolution, they destroy the abbey. Today, the tower hosts exhibits from time to time.

Distillerie Carre Cointreau

In 1849, local confectioner Adolphe Cointreau decides to expand into liqueurs. Starting with a cherry liqueur, he experiments with the recipe using the skins of sweet and bitter oranges for flavor. The result is a less sweet, more intense flavor. Cointreau is a clear liqueur they drink as an aperitif or digestive. According to Cointreau, the first Cosmopolitan (vodka, Cointreau, and cranberry) is in New York City circa 1988. Even if you think you do not like liqueur, it is an interesting visit.

Eglise Saint Laud

Within view of the chateau, much of this 1876 church will disappear during WWII bombings. The white interior and numerous large stained glass windows, (some original) make for a bright interior.

Across the River (Right Bank)

Église de la Trinité d’Angers.

The church dates from the end of the 12th century when it replaces a previous church. The current bell tower dates from the 16th century.  By a miracle, the church survives the Revolution with little damage. However, circa 1880, it goes through a major renovation. They replace the facade with the Romanesque Revival style. They also replace most of the stained glass windows with new ones by local master glassmaker Thierry fils.

North

Château du Plessis-Macé

This 15th-century castle is 20 minutes northwest of town on the route from Brittany. Its purpose was to warn Angers of approaching enemies and to hopefully slow them down. You can tour on your own or with a reserved tour.

South

Château de Brissac

On the site of an 11th century castle for the Counts of Anjou, they build a 15th century chateau. During the French Wars of Religion, the château is severely damaged. Circa 1611 the Duke of Brissac rebuilds the chateau in Baroque architecture.

Today, the house is still the private residence of the Duke of Brissac. You can visit this chateau, the tallest in France. It is 30 minutes south of Angers.

You can see much of Angers town in a full day. But what about the area around it? Angers makes a great base for seeing nearby towns, villages, and chateaus.

Let’s see the rest of the Angers area.

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See Saumur.

Approximately 35 miles upriver from Angers. Saumur dates back thousands of years.

Circa 845 the Normans sack the town. By the 10th-century, the chateau is in place to guard the Loire river crossing. Invaders destroy the castle circa 1067. King Henry II of England will rebuild it in the later 12th century. They build much of the town with the local Tuffeau stone. 

Château de Saumur

The building began in the 10th century as a fortification for Theobald I, Count of Blois. Circa 1026, the count of Anjou acquires the property and turns it into a chateau. After its destruction circa 1067, it sits empty for almost 100 years until Henry II of England rebuilds it. Today it is home to a museum of various local collections.

Le Cadre Noir.

After a dismal defeat during the 1815 Napoleonic wars, the French open a new cavalry school in Saumur. After strenuous training to create an elite cavalry, in 1825, they unveil the Cadre Noir of Saumur. In the 1970s, it will morph into the National Riding School.

Today, it still teaches riding disciplines mixing past military, and today’s sport. Tours of the facility are available and shows (galas) take place from time to time.

Distillerie Combier

Begining as a confectioner, in 1834 Jean-Baptiste Combier and his wife Josephine try making an orange liqueur.

Their clear sweet orange liqueur becomes an instant hit. They call it Triple Sec. They manage to reintroduce the production of Absinthe, illegal since 1915. For the fan of liqueurs, a visit here should be on your list.

Pont Cessart

Linking Saumur’s old town with the island of Offard, there has been a bridge since 1770. It has been a target many times with numerous renovations. 

Château de Breze

Ten minutes south of Saumur, this beautiful chateau dates from the11th-century. You can tour the inside of the chateau and purchase wine from their vineyard surrounding the property.

Château de Montsoreau-Museum of Contemporary Art

A 20-minute drive east of Saumur along the river brings you to this chateau dating from circa 1450. This makes it one of the oldest chateaus in this area.

Today, this flamboyant chateau is home to an impressive collection of works from the Art and Language conceptual movement.

Royal Abbey of Fontevraud

Dating from 1119, this is a double monastery with a separate side for monks and a side for nuns. They would all answer to the Abbess.

Henry II, The King of England, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and their son, King Richard the Lionheart, are all buried here. Isabella of Angoulême, the second wife of Henry II and Eleanor’s youngest son John are also here.

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See Chinon

The town of Chinon is just over 30 minutes drive southeast from Saumur along the Vienne river. For such a small town, it has much to offer.

The town is in the Appellation d’Origine Controlee (A.O.C.) Chinon, so expect wine and things relating to wine. Although a small town, it can get crowded with tourists in the day time. Note, many establishments, especially small wineries, only take cash. Also, bring a few words in French.

Forteresse Royale de Chinon

It starts with a history similar to Saumur’s castle, Theobald I builds it, then passes to Anjou’s counts. King Henry II of England also seizes it from his relatives in 1156 and makes it a residence. Much of what you see today is from this period.

Le Carroi, Musée d’arts et d’histoire

Inside a Chinon building from the 15th-century is a lovely collection of local objects, artifacts, and artworks. The collection includes items from prehistoric times to the present day. The museum is towards the center of town.

Domaine Couly-Dutheil

Although the grapes come from three different appellation areas, their wine tastings take place in town. They produce award-winning red, white, and rose wines. In 2021, they will celebrate 100 years of winemaking. The wine tasting is near the car park for the Chateau Chinon.

 

North Side of the River

Château de la Grille

North of Chinon is this lovely chateau with a history reaching back to the 14th-century. Today, after several renovations,  the chateau is in the Neo-Gothic style. The grapevines surround the property. Reservations are mandatory.

Just outside of Chinon to the east is this wine domaine. Open in the afternoon for visits except for Sunday, and special programs require advanced reservations.

 

South Side

Château de Marçay

This 15th-century chateau is on the foundations of an 11th-century fortress. For almost 50 years, it has been a lovely hotel and restaurant. The property is approximately a 15-minute drive south of town.

Château du Rivau

Dating from the 13th century, the chateau belongs to the Beauvau family. Circa 1454, their daughter Isabeau marries a member of the  House of Bourbon.  Their warhorses are famous. Joan of Arc would stop in 1423 in search of horses. Today the castle and gardens are open April – November for touring. The chateau, 15 minutes south of Chinon, is also a lovely bed and breakfast with a restaurant.

Picroboule

The French Boules is similar to the British Bowls and Italian Bocce. They all involve balls, and all descend from the Romans.

This “museum” explains the history, playing techniques, vocabulary, and folklore of the sport. You can often watch a match taking place. Signs are in English, but tours are only in French.

 

 See Angers Summary