THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
The town of Chania from its Venetian Harbor.
Looking at pictures of snow on Athen’s Acropolis this week took me back to Greece. O.K., just about anything takes me back to Greece these days except planes and ships.
Greece, well all of Europe, is a great place for walking.
Why? Because for the first 3500 years, that was the only mode of transportation for the masses. Many of those walks and paths remain.
It is not that large touring buses cannot drive in many city centers; they cannot fit. Roads are for pedestrians and later an ox cart or chariot.
I am a big fan of the luxury touring bus with cold air and WIFi. However, you really need to get off the bus to experience a destination.
Today, let’s go for a walk on Greece’s second-most southern island.
Walking from the west coast of Crete to the east coast would cover around 175 miles. Let’s cut that down to a half-day saunter.
On the northwest coast is the port and town of Chania, which is a great walking destination.
Walking Chania.
Chania is the capital of Western Crete. It is approximately two hours’ drive west of the capital city of Heraklion.
Much of its charm comes from the 14th-century Venetian harbor with its pedestrian waterfront. There are nearby narrow streets you can lose yourself in, admiring tavernas and boutiques.
Let’s start in the harbor as people have done for centuries.
Walking Chania Harbor.
Chania’s history dates from the Neolithic period when the first inhabitants found the low hill of Kastelli. Seaview property in those days was not for the balmy breezes but defense. From the hill, they could see invaders from a distance and also defend from above.
The Minoans (circa 3000 B.C. – 1100 B.C.) would gradually extend the city’s walls and natural harbor. There is evidence that the Minoans were major players in the early sea trade.
There are no visible signs of the Minoans in the harbor, so let’s start at the 1601A.D. Lighthouse.
A ten-minute walk from the lighthouse is the Sabbionara rampart. Along the way, you will pass Venetian storehouses that are now shops. One storehouse contains the part of the Maritime Museums collection.
Most of the remaining walls and ramparts date from the Venetian occupation (1204-1645). Taking the island from the Byzantines during their second reign, the Venetians enlarge the city. They also add a moat.
Crossing back to the harbor, walk along the harbor to admire all the boats.
On your left will be the Venetian Neoria, arched buildings with pointed roofs. Outside of Venice, this was a major shipyard for storage and repair for the Venetians.
Walking Ancient Chania.
At the far (west) end of the boathouse, turn left on Archoleon street and walk 2 short blocks to Kanevarou street. Turn right. There’s a hill! This is the hill the original Kydonia was sitting upon.
Beyond the first house on the right is a section of a wall that is now part of several buildings. This is a great example of how they recycle from the previous generations. This is also why there are few remains from the Roman occupation (67 B.C.-330 A.D.) The structures are now part of other structures, or they become building material for another location. The Roman theater provides many of the stones and bricks of the Venetian walls.
Walk to the top of the hill. A block further on your right is the Choros Minoiki Kidonia archaeological site. This is one of the few sections of Kydonia you can see.
There is some evidence that there may be a great Minoan palace underneath.
Walk another four blocks west on Kanevarou street until it ends in a square. This is the Plaka area of Chania.
Circa 1551, the Venetian governor Loredan unveils a new fountain in the Plaka by the harbor. The Venetian fountain is still there.
Ottoman Chania.
Walk towards the harbor (north) to the tip. Here, you will find The Mosque Küçük Hassan (or Gialisi Tzami – mosque to the sea.) This is the only remaining mosque in Chania. The Ottomans build it on the site of a preexisting Christian temple soon after the Ottoman conquest.
It serves as a temple until 1923, when the last Turks depart after Greece reclaims Crete.
The Greeks do not demolish the minaret until 1939. This shows great willpower as it is usually the first thing they “circumcise” when the Ottomans depart.
The Ottomans seize Chania circa 1645. Venice and the Christians battle the Ottomans for control of Crete until 1669, when Candia (Heraklion) falls. The Ottomans will hold the island for the next 160 years. It is effortless for the Ottomans to defend the island using the Venetian fortifications.
Their plan is not to rebuild but remodel. The Ottomans see Chania as an easy fix. You will see Chania has several buildings with multiple architectures.
The Dominicans erect the Monastery and Church of Agios (Saint) Nicholas in 1320 A.D. The Ottomans will use it as a mosque.
Continue west along the harbor. A five-minute walk brings you to the Nautical Museum of Crete.
There is a collection of ship models, nautical instruments, and other artifacts from the Bronze age forward.
The museum building is part of the Firka Fort, guarding the Venetian Harbor area. The walls of the fort are still visible to the west.
Walk past the Firka Fort and turn the corner to your left. One block beyond is the San Salvatore Bastion, part of the massive Venetian defenses.
Walking Chania’s Walls.
Continue walking past the bastion. What? I want to see it. Stay with your guide. On the west side of the bastion is the former moat, now dry. From this vantage point, you can really appreciate the size and scope of the fortifications.
Between Firka fort and the San Salvatore Bastion is Theotokopoulou street. It will take you to the top of the bastion. Unfortunately, the area is undergoing a Greek refurbishment which means there is no end date.
I recommend walking along Pireos street on the west edge of the moat. Follow this to the first street leading back into the old section, Meletiou Piga street.
Directly in front of you is the round Schiavo Bastion, which, last I hear, is no longer open. Awww. Actually, no structures are remaining, and the views are not that great.
Follow the street around the bastion to your right until you reach Chalidon street. Turn left.
Christian Chania.
Two buildings down on your right, you will find the plaza of the Panagia Trimartiri Cathedral. (AKA, the Venetian Cathedral of the Virgin, Assumption of the Virgin, and 30 or 40 other names).
There has been a cathedral here since the 14th century. The current building dates from 1860. The interior includes large icons and a bell from the Czar of Russia.
During some excavations in this area, they think they came across remnants of the Bishopric of Kydonia. (Bishop’s Palace.)
At #46, across the street, is the “secret” entrance to the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption. Due to buildings all around it, you can not see this church from the outside. Dating from 1879, it is the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Crete.
Three doors further down Chalidon street on the left is a building that looks like a church. This is the Archaeological Museum of Chania.
One hundred clay tablets in Linear A explain that fire levels the city in 1450 B.C., but they quickly rebuild. They indicate there may have been a Minoan palace for the administrative business of the town.
Five buildings further down the street brings you back to the Plaka and Venetian fountain. You could stop now, But I wouldn’t.
Walking Chania’s Jewish Quarter.
Right as you enter the Plaka is Zampeliou street. Turn left. Now go lose yourself.
During the Ottoman occupation, most Jews from this area of Crete came to live in this area. Under the Ottomans, they were free to worship, as were Christians.
The quarter stretches from here to the city walls. Narrow streets zigzag through the area. Follow everyone that calls to you. Finding yourself is pretty easy. We are talking about an area approximately three blocks long and four blocks wide.
Yet, to me, it contains some of the prettiest streets in Chania.
Every ten feet, stop and look above you. The architecture is amazing.
The Jews will build two synagogues in the Jewish quarter. Nazi aircraft destroy one in World War II. The other closes when the Nazis destroy the Jewish community in 1944. Many of Chania’s Jews die en route to Auschwitz when their boat sinks with them locked up below.
By the mid-1990s, there is enough of a Jewish community in Chania to restore and resume Jewish services at the Etz Hayyim Synagogue. As it is an active synagogue, there is a dress code. Groups of more than ten need to make reservations. You may not take photos inside.
Nearby is Kondilaki street. Once the main road of the Jewish Quarter, today, it is a busy tourist street. Bring some imagination.
Chania’s Market.
The Chania Municipal Market dating from 1913, is a should-visit destination. See the locals and nibble on a progressive lunch. In the beginning, the butchers were in the eastern wing, the fishmongers in the west. Fruits, vegetables, and other products were in the north and south.
The market is less than a ten-minute walk from the Plaka going south and one block east.
Today, most of the fishmongers are in Souda. Many of the produce vendors only go to the daily neighborhood markets. There are a lot of cheesy souvenir shops in their place. However, you can still do a quasi-progressive lunch in the market, eating as you go. The small restaurants have incredible meals made with (guess) fresh everything.
Although no longer in use, somehow, the minaret of Achmet Aga survives as well. It is a block from the market.
And this is just Chania’s old section.
Chania is also a great base for day trips.
Rethimno is about one hour east. The start of the amazing Samaria Gorge all-day hike is an hour south.
And closer to Chania are numerous sights to see.
What are you waiting for? Let’s walk in Chania.
Read more about Crete.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.