THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
Juneau (read more) is one of the largest state capitals in the United States, covering an area of 3,255 square miles. With a year-round population of just over 32,000 people that gives you room to roam. The urban area only covers approximately 14 square miles.
Another unique aspect of Juneau is you can’t drive to or from the city. It has mountains on three sides and water on the forth.
So how do you get to Juneau? By plane, boat, or in the wintertime, dogsled.
Why would anyone put a city out in the middle of nowhere? That’s easy. Gold!
History
For hundreds of years, this area was a fishing area for the Auke and Taku tribes. They are the First Native people of Alaska.
The United States purchases the Alaskan Territory from Russia. The year is 1867.
It is not until 1879 when anyone begins taking notice.
There’s gold in them thar Streams
Summer of 1880 and Tlingit Chief Kowee leads prospectors, Joe Juneau and Richard Harris, to a stream. They find gold nuggets lying in the stream bed. They mark off a 160-acre townsite they call Harrisburg because Richard was doing the writing.
Within a year, over 100 prospectors were panning and living in a tent town. They eventually call the city Juneau.
The Russians are Coming
The town continues to grow, and the local Tlingit Indians don’t like the wild west atmosphere. Or that it is attracting the young men of the tribe.
They call on the Russian Orthodox Church to intervene. The church has been a peace-keeper between the locals and the Russians since the early 1800s.
They do the same in Juneau, giving the local Tlingits and a few of the new people faith and structure.
But not all of the new people. The town is still growing at a healthy rate. Numerous mining supply stores, a blacksmith, an apothecary, and a bakery open shop. Many bars are offering all the services saloons of the wild west “offer.”
The Juneau gold rush only lasts a few years. Then in 1886, news comes about the big strike on Forty Mile River. A majority of the prospectors, supply stores, and bar owners move on. But the blacksmith, the baker, and the candlestick makers remain, and Juneau soon grows into the largest community in Alaska.
A New Century
In 1900, Juneau wrote up letters of incorporation.
By 1906, Alaska moves the district government to Juneau.
In 1912 Alaska became a U.S. territory.
By 1920 Juneau is the largest town in Alaska with a steady population of over 3,000.
The primary industry is still gold. However, as the individual prospectors were leaving, significant mining concerns came in. The Treadwell, Alaska-Gastineau, and the Alaska-Juneau Mine, (The A.J.) were the big three.
Even the big mining companies have short histories. The first two shut their doors when WWI takes much of the metal and workforce.
The A.J. will succumb during WWII.
Estimates say that more than 220 tons of gold came out of the Juneau area. In today’s economy, that would be more than 11 billion dollars in value.
Modern Juneau
Today, the population is around 32,000 residents. When you arrive by cruise ship, that seems impossible. Much of the port area sits between Mount Roberts and the harbor along Franklin Street. In some places, it is only one block wide.
What is even more impossible to understand is how 1.3 million cruise passengers cram into such a narrow space.
If you fly in, the airport is in the valley north of town. You will get a better glimpse of the residential areas of the city.
Juneau Wildlife
Remember the other 3,200 square miles of Juneau not in use by humans? It is home to more than 280 species of birds. Some, including bald eagles, are year-round.
On land, there are brown (grizzly) and black bears, deer, goats, and other small animals like beavers.
The waters are teaming. There are five species of salmon. And then there are the aquatic creatures that feed on them. Humpback whales and the occasional orca come every summer for feeding. There are Dall’s and harbor porpoises, Steller sea lions, harbor seals, and sea otters.
The only thing that outnumbers tourists is wildlife.
Should-see in Juneau.
The town itself is not the reason you are coming to Alaska. None of the cities or towns are. Each of them is a gateway to something spectacular.
You don’t plan to spend your entire visit in town. But there are a few things to see there.
The lower station is right next to one of the cruise piers. This seasonal tram whisks 60 passengers at a time 1800 feet up Mount Roberts. The ride takes approximately six minutes. At the top is a restaurant, gift shop, and great views of Juneau below. But beyond are hiking trails through the top of the rainforest and higher into the sub-arctic terrain.
I always thought this was an impressive museum to learn about the real Alaska. After it underwent a 139 million dollar expansion, others began to agree with me. The museum initially dates from 1900, the same year Juneau incorporates. However, they will not have a building for 20 years. Over the next 120+ years, they acquire a collection of more than 35,000 objects. See the other treasures the state has besides gold.
Is it a museum? Is it an artist workshop? It’s a little of both. Living artists from the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian tribes are creating contemporary art pieces and installations, pulling from their traditions. There are permanent as well as temporary exhibits. The space is right downtown.
St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church
Further up the hill from the Capitol is this Russian Orthodox church dating from 1893. They still hold services on Saturdays and Sundays.
Juneau Downtown Historic District
Stand under the clock at the corner of S Franklin and Front Street. Every building you can see is in the Juneau Downtown Historic District. This whole area joined the National Register of Historic Places in 1996.
Salmon Eating
There are many opportunities to eat salmon in Juneau. Some are giant food factories. Others are smaller operations where sometimes the fish hardly saw a refrigerator between the boat and plate. Is one better than the other? I have yet to meet an Alaska salmon meal I did not like. Try salmon in Alaska, even if you do not like salmon. The halibut is tasty too.
Just Outside Downtown
Gold Creek
This creek is the one that began everything. From the waterfront up to Cope Park, Gold Greek is a storm drain. As soon as you get to the park, it becomes a magical place. There are several hiking trails and maps are available at the information booths near the piers.
The museum is in the former compressor building of the Alaska-Juneau Gold Mine. It was in use between 1912 until 1944. The museum is on the National Register of Historic Places and Alaska Gold Rush Properties. To bring authenticity to the setting, guests must cross Gold Creek and hike up a path over uneven terrain. It is worth the climb.
Douglas Island
Just across the bridge from downtown Juneau is Douglas Island. At the south end of the island was the Treadwell mine, for a while, the largest in the world.
Treadwell Mine Historic Trail Walking
Unfortunately, there are minimal remains as most everything was wood. However, the Treadwell Historic Preservation and Restoration Society are doing a great job of preserving the remains. There are trails throughout the area and interpretive signs with photos in several places. If you have the time, it makes a great walk in the woods.
Outside Juneau
Mendenhall Valley
The most famous glacier in Juneau is the Mendenhall. Is it the longest, widest, or tallest? No, it is the only glacier tour buses can reach. Well, come within viewing distance.
The glacier is on the other side of Mendenhall Lake from the visitor center. There is no trail to the glacier from the visitor’s center.
There is a staff who can answer questions. They have displays about the area, and they have restrooms. From the center, you can access trails to Nugget Falls, which will get you closer to the glacier. There are other hiking trails of various skill levels.
There is a $5 admission fee per person at the visitor center area.
On the Glacier
Several tour companies are offering a wide range of activities on and in Mendenhall Glacier.
There are hikes, for the healthy, up on the glacier. Once there, there are opportunities to do ice climbing or explore ice caves.
Helicopters drop people on the glacier for several activities. People can walk, take a quick dogsled ride, or even help care for the dogs for part of a day.
Auke Bay
The bay is famous for the Humpback Whales who swim here each summer from Hawaii and Mexico to feed. Due to the bay’s enclosure, the whales are almost always visible during their time there. Numerous boats go out of the marina holding four or many more on whale spotting tours.
Further Afield
To reach anywhere else from Juneau requires a boat, plane or helicopter
Juneau Ice Fields
The Juneau Icefield extends for 1,500 sq miles to the north and east from Juneau. The icefield is home to more than 40 massive valley glaciers. The Mendenhall is one of these. There are an additional 100 smaller ones.
Taku Glacier
The Taku is the ice field’s largest glacier. It is the thickest and deepest alpine-temperate glacier in the world. It is over 26 miles long and more than three miles wide at the terminus.
Floatplanes depart from the waterfront to take guests over the Taku and to lodges overlooking the Taku.
Everyone should get above Alaska at least once to begin to fathom its scope.
Admiralty Island
The Tlingit Indians gave it the name “Xootsnoowu,” meaning “Fortress of the Bears.” The island is home to the highest density of brown (Grizzly) bears anywhere in North America. There are an estimated 1,600 brown bears on the island, outnumbering humans almost 3 to 1.
Juneau Alaska Gold and Treasures.
It began with gold, but Juneau has so many riches. The scenery and the potential wildlife sightings are the reason for coming to Alaska. Juneau has both overflowing.
Juneau makes a great place to base yourself if you are not on a cruise.
Besides the sights in Juneau, you can make day trips to Haines and Skagway as well.
People often ask me if I could only choose two places to go to in Alaska, where would they be. Juneau and Anchorage is my answer.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3 “Taste the World” Continued on T11