THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
Lesvos, Lesbos or Mytilini, is Greece’s third-largest island after Crete and Evia.
It covers over 600 square miles with a coastline stretching more than 200 miles. Fortunately, the population is just over 90,000 locals, and it is not a major tourist destination. That means you can still find much of its traditional vibe.
So, where is it?
The island is part of the Northern Aegean islands. Lesvos has the west coast of Turkey, in some places only six miles, off its north, and eastern side.
Ancient Lesbos History
In prehistoric times, the island was a lush forest of vegetation. It went by the name Lassia or Lazpa due to its fertile landscape. The name Lesvos comes from this word.
The history of Lesvos begins circa 1507 B.C. The Pelasgians from the mainland establish Thermi on the coast, famous for its hot springs.
In the 6th century B.C., the Persians are in command for almost 100 years.
Circa 479 B.C., the Athenians, take a stab at it.
Alexander the Great passes “G.O.” and collects the island and adjoining mainland circa 334 B.C.
The Roman Empire arrives circa 88 B.C., on their real estate conquest. They will keep it until 1204.
Saracen. Latins, and Byzantium, will take turns until the mid-1400s.
In 1354, Genoa added Lesvos to its portfolio. The Genovese will leave almost 100 years’ worth of imprint on the island.
By 1460, there are more conquerors The Ottomans. They hold on to the island for the next 450 years.
Becoming Greece
The Greek War of Independence begins in 1821, and by 1832, there is the Kingdom of Greece. Unfortunately, it includes almost no islands.
Lesvos will officially join the Kingdom of Greece in 1923.
So there you have about 3,000 years of history in 300 words. Why is any of that necessary? It shows just how many different influences the island has. History and cuisine have to be unique.
Ancient Sites
Archaeological Site of Thermi
The remains of the island’s first settlement lie on the east coast 20 minutes drive north of Mytilene. The settlement dates from the Early Bronze Age (3200-2400 B.C.) Why? Hot thermal springs. The Greeks have been having spa days since the 13th century B.C. The Greeks did it first and did it right.
Archaeological Museum of Mytilene (Website in Greek)
The museum is in two buildings. The older Paleo section is a former mansion. The New Building, dating from the 1990s, is on the same site where the previous museum, circa 1935, stood. In the old section, you can see many pieces of the Aeolic Temple.
Sanctuary of Messon (Mesa)
The ruins date from the late 4th-century B.C. and many people mistakenly call it Aphrodite’s Temple. Clues indicate the cults of Zeus, Dionysus, and Hera were probably sharing the temple.
Ancient Mithimna
Dating from the end of the Bronze Age, 4th-century B.C., Ancient Mithimna (Molyvos) has a fantastic view. The views and the top of the hill position made it very easy to defend.
Castle of Molyvos (Mithymna)
The castle you see today towering over the modern-day village of Molyvos is predominantly Byzantine. But much of the building material dates from the original structure.
Less Ancient Lesbos
Roman Aqueduct of Moria
Northwest of Mytilene is the remains of a late 2nd-century Roman aqueduct. It carried water from the springs on Olympos Mountain to the ancient town of Mytilene, a distance of 16 miles.
Castle of Mytilene
The castle of Mytilene is one of the biggest castles in the Mediterranean. Sitting on a hill with views of the harbor, it covers approximately 60 acres. Today, only three sections survive from the Byzantine period and include one small gate, the eastern wall, and the tank.
Kremasti Bridge
This medieval stone bridge, dating from sometime in the 1500s, was a significant link between the east side of the island and the west. The bridge reaches a height of 28 feet at the top of its single arch
Yeni Mosque of Mytilene
The building sits in the center of what was the Ottoman market, during the Turkish occupation. The mosque is one of the newer sites in the area, dating from around 1825. Unfortunately, the building is in pressing need of restoration.
The Rest of Lesbos
On the grounds of the Plomari Ouzo Distillery, north of Plomari, you can learn about Ouzo. The ingredients and processes they use to make Ouzo. The distillery has been operating since 1894. They are open certain days, so please check ahead before visiting, especially in winter.
Closer to the beach in Plomari, this distillery has been making Ouzo for more than 150 years. Their museum includes many original pieces of equipment, including the original alembic dating from 1858. This quality of Ouzo is not something they were serving at a college party. The distilleries are less than three miles apart, stop and sample both.
The Petrified Forest of Lesvos
In Lesvos’s rocky, barren west remains of forest are coming to the surface as the lava rock erodes. The Petrification of the forest began with intense volcanic activity 20 million years ago. It hardly looks like a forest now. Remnants of trees, some still standing, dot the hillside. The feeling of the area is somewhat surreal and empty.
The Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest
This unusual geological museum is in the seaside village of Sigri, approximately 20 minutes drive from the forest site. It serves as a center for the study, management, education, and preservation of the petrified forest.
Religious Sites In Lesbos
There are enough sacred sites on the island to keep you on a pilgrimage your entire visit. And many come here for that exact reason. Some of the more impressive sites include:
Saint Therapon
This church dome is hard to miss if you sail into Mytilini harbor. Dating from 1860, it may sit on top of the ruins of an ancient temple to Apollo. It is the largest church on the island.
Glykfylousa Panagia
The church sits upon the rock (Petra in Greece) overlooking the village of Petra. (Petros = Peter.) A sea captain had an Icon of the Blessed Virgin that keeps ending up on top of the rock. After retrieving it several times, he builds a church upon the foundation. The present church dates from 1747.
Moni Perivolis
Dating from the Byzantine period, there is mention of the church as far back as 1590. The site still includes a courtyard, convent, and church. The must-see here is the incredible cycle of wall paintings, circa late sixteenth century, depicting the life of Christ.
The church is one of twelve historic churches on Lesvos that are on the World Monuments Watch.
There are numerous more churches and monasteries on the island. While most churches allow women and people of all faiths, monasteries can be much more strict.
The Term Lesbian
So many people have misconceptions about this island, and they have never been here.
For the last 3400+ years, the term Lesbian refers to something from the island of Lesbos/Lesvos. This label includes men, women, wines, cuisine, and more.
No discussion of Lesvos, Lesbos would be complete without a quick 101 on Sappho.
Around 600 B.C. the lyrical poet Sappho was born on the island of Lesvos. Her works, poems set to lyre music were numerous and well received.
Unfortunately, of the few remaining, only two may be in their entirety. The larger one, “Ode to Aphrodite,” is a significant key to everything that follows. And no one knows for sure which door it unlocks.
Many believe the ode is a parody based on a scene in book five of Homer’s Iliad. The rest of the poem is definitely a nod to Homer.
Others believe it is Sappho revealing to the world her unrequited love of another girl. And that stems from one word out of the entire poem and its translation 2300 years later.
None of the other bits of Sappho’s work reveal anything of her personal life. In later Greek drama, they portray her as a man-hungry woman.
Centuries Later
Why is any of this important? Skip ahead to circa 1870. English poets take it upon themselves to comment on some poems dealing with female homosexuality as being Lesbian. From the island of Lesvos, and insinuating that Sappho likes women.
They begin applying the term Lesbian to all works involving women with other women.
Soon there are renderings of Sappho with other women. If you see it on Facebook or in a painting, it must be true.
By the 1900s, gay female writers have proclaimed Sappho their patron saint.
So How “Gay” is Lesvos?
Let me answer by sharing some of the questions over the years.
Is the island overflowing with gay females?
No. It will surprise me if the island’s population has 10% of gays, as Alfred Kinsey claims.
Do they allow men on the island?
You have been reading too many stories about Amazons or Wonder Woman. Yes, there are men on the island.
Are the men on the island gay?
Well, they are Lesbians. Of course, so is the cuisine, the wine, the…
Of all the men I have met from Lesvos, they seem to love women too. Confusing?
In short, it is the locals who make the island.
People, gay or straight, need to understand that most of the Greek people are going to like you first.
You have to really screw up to get them not to like you. That is a general statement, but it certainly applies to most of the Greeks I have met in Greece.
If you do not shove it in their face, most Greeks will not care. They do not like public displays by gay or straight people. Neither do I, so get a room.
Should I avoid Lesbos because it is a gay island?
Females who identify as gay do come to Lesvos, predominantly in the warmer months.
Yes, there are a few who give all the others a bad name. (All groups have a few of those.) But I feel the majority come for the community of like people, not to find a partner. That the island is fabulous is just whip cream on top.
So should you skip Lesbos?
If people being different bothers you, yes, you should. In fact, you should never leave your house.
Get over the labels and be a little more Greek-like.
Lesbian Cuisine
We didn’t even hit upon the Lesbian food, wine or Ouzo. That’s a whole other chapter. Lesvos is a culinary destination. Lesbian Cuisine.
Lesbos Summary
There are flights daily from Athens and other European cities. There is a 10-hour ferry from Piraeus year-round. In the summer, there is a ferry connecting the island with Kavala in northern Greece. Ferries are connecting Lesvos with Chios, Ikaria, Lemnos, and Samos.
Lesvos is another secret corner of Greece you really should visit.
PLEASE scroll down to the “Leave a Reply” section at the bottom and tell me your thoughts on:
“Would you visit Lesvos?”
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3 “Taste the World” Continued on T11
This is a particularly engaging history of an island I knew very little about – of course, other than the pervasive social history and pop culture references to Lesvos. I am drawn to one picture in particular- the church of Panagia Gorgona – I have never seen anything like it. It is so beautiful and I can only imagine what it would look like in person. Thank you for the lessons learned today.
Definitely would go! So pretty. Looking forward to learning more about the food and wine.
I am overwhelmed by the history and diversity of this island. I knew nothing of it until I read this article. From the hot springs, petrified forest, Castle of Molyvos, and the food I definitely want to visit and explore. The history is complicated and the derivation of the name is enlightening. Isn’t it amazing how a successfully publicized name can color our perception. The island of Levsos is on my list of musts.