Ham and Cheese in February?
If I say, Parmigiano, what comes to mind? If you answer a green round canister that has been in the refrigerator for an extended period, turn in your cuisine card.
Parmigiano-Reggiano is a hard, granular cheese from the area of the same name. Once you try the real stuff, you will be trading in your green can.
Parmigiano-Reggiano is a Protected designation of origin (PDO) product. And what better place to try it than in Parma Italy? But is that all that Parma has to offer?
Prosciutto di Parma This salume is also a PDO. Its production dates back to the Roman times. Thousands of years later, it still contains no additives or preservatives. They use sea salt for the salting (it pulls moisture/liquid out of the meat), air and time.
You Say Salumi; I say Salami
Salumi is predominantly pork cold cuts from Italy. Salumi comes from the Italian word salume, which means salted meat.
Salami is a specific type of salumi.
Parmigiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma are not the only PDO products from Emilia-Romagna. There are five other salumi alone. There are four protected sausages. Other protected meats include veal.
In the cheeses, there is also the protected Fossa from Sogliano, Grana Padano, and Provolone Valpadana.
So you could spend a day in Parma just eating cheese and salumi? Yes, And I have done just that to make sure you can.
Other PDO.
But it doesn’t end with cheese and meat. Emilia-Romagna has more than 20 products with Protected Designation of Origin. From nearby Modena, you have the sour cherry jam.
Even better is the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. You have not had anything like it. The Balsamic consists of part sweet wine, part vinegar and it’s so tasty too, just like candy. A little sprinkle of it over some Parmigiano…
Vegetables include asparagus, onions, potatoes and mushrooms.
Fruits include pears, peaches, and nectarines.
There is protected sourdough bread, rice, and chestnuts.
Also, there is garlic and two different olive oils. Yes, there’s that much of a difference (to them.)
Just eating the PDO products would be enough to sell you on Emilia-Romagna, but there’s so much more. The region is known as the breadbasket of Italy. Many would discuss “passionately” (hands and arms flying,) that it is also the gastronomical and culinary heart of Italy.
Emilia-Romagna
Made up of two historical regions, it stretches from around 40 miles inland of La Spezia on the Mediterranian to Comacchio on the Adriatic coast.
The capital is Bologna, home to the world’s oldest university. There are Romanesque, Medieval, and Renaissance old towns hiding within modern cities. Ravenna was a former capital of the Western Roman Empire.
Out of the 54 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Italy, 11 are within this region. All are within a two-hour drive from Parma.
And what about Parma itself? Parma is on UNESCO’s Creative Cities for gastronomy. The first city in Italy to a member.
So ladies, have you convinced your male traveling companion to pack their bags?
No? Tell them the following companies have museums and factories approximately one-hour drive from Parma; Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, and Ducati.
He’s googling them now, isn’t he?
Parma in February.
Isn’t it cold in February? Well, that depends. Compared to Chicago, no. The daytime high is in the mid-40s, and at night it can get down to the high-30s. They average about two inches of rain for the whole month. If you’re not going to be outside all day, then for most people this should be O.K.
The sun may not shine every day in February, but there are days of sun. Some of my best pictures happen when the sun is partially filtered.
January and February make up the low season in Parma. That means fewer tourists. This news is terrific in that lines are shorter and there’s a better chance to meet locals.
What Can You Do Inside? (Beyond the Parmigiano)
There is more to Parma than Parmigiano. Start in the Piazza del Duomo with the Parma Duomo, which is pretty much in the center of the old town. The current building, dating from 1074, replaced an earlier basilica lost in a fire. Inside, you have a dome painted by the Renaissance master Correggio. It showed the Assumption of the Virgin and was considered “scandalous” by critics at the time of its unveiling.
The Deposition, a carving in marble by Benedetto Antelami is believed to be his first great commission. This masterpiece of Gothic art was created in 1178 when the Gothic movement was starting in Northern France. (How did it find its way to Northern Italy years before the movement arrived?) There are several other great works in the Duomo.
As you exit the Cathedral, the baptistery is on the left. Straight ahead of you is the Bishop’s Palace. Across the piazza, in the far right corner is the Diocesan Museum.
The baptistery with a design by Benedetto Antelami dates from 1216. Gothic is still in its infancy, but you would not believe it was looking at this structure. The six-story octagonal building consists of pink Verona marble. There are four floors of open loggias.
The Diocesan Museum tells the history of the spread of Christianity in Parma. It starts during the Roman times and continues through the early medieval and medieval sections. The baptistery ticket includes admission to the museum. The Duomo is free of charge.
The Bishop’s Palace is not open for visits. But admire the architecture.
Piazza Garibaldi
A five-minute walk from the Piazza Duomo, (if you stop at every window) is the main square of Parma. A statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi, a man who played a large part in the unification of the Kingdom of Italy, is near the center of the northern half of the square.
The city’s most prominent government buildings face the piazza. You can see the Palazzo del Comune (city hall) on the east and the Palazzo del Governatore, (Governor’s Palace) on the north. The city hall interiors are not open to the public. The Governor’s Palace is quite often as it houses several art exhibitions throughout the year.
Piazza della Pace.
Another short five-minute walk is the Piazza della Pace. The Plaza of Peace was anything but that in May of 1944 after an aerial bombing during the German occupation. The Palazzo della Pilotta, with parts dating to 1580, and the Palazzo Ducale, (Duke’s Palace) dating from 1627, receive damage. The bombs destroy the Reinach Theater.
Today, the Pilotta is home to the National Archaeological Museum, the Bodonian Book and Manuscript Museum. Also the National Gallery, and the Palatine Library. It is worth at least a morning or afternoon of your time.
A small portion of the remaining Palazzo Ducale is attached to it.
The Teatro Farnese, dating from 1619 is also attached to the Pilotta. Although much of it is rebuilt post-WWII, it deserves a visit while at the Pilotta. A ten euro ticket covers all five attractions.
Teatro Regio
Another theater not to miss is Parma’s Opera house dating from 1829. Here, you can enjoy opera, dance and other performances.
Other Highlights in the City.
The Renaissance Sanctuary of Santa Maria from 1521 and the old hospital are very interesting. For music lovers, there is the birthplace of Arturo Toscanini just across the river.
Nearby
Within an hour’s drive are numerous villages and hilltop towns, several with castles. The city of Reggio-Emilia and its old town is also a beautiful place to spend an afternoon.
For music lovers, there is the town of Busetto which is home to the Verdi Museum. Just outside of town is the Villa Verdi, his last residence.
In short, you need a few days to see Parma and its surroundings. But with each additional day, you get three more excuses to eat in Parma. That’s a good thing.
A plate of local Parmigiano cheese, ham and a bottle of local wine. This is NOT a bad way to spend a February afternoon. But save room for an incredible dinner later.
If I gave you two-three days in Parma, what would you do?
“See Naples Italy” Continued on Page T8 “Greek Wine” Continued on T14