BACK TO GREEK WINE
Table of Contents:
GRAPES
P.D.O. and P.G.I. WINES
EPIRUS WINERIES.
Wines of Greece Greek Beers. Greek Spirits.
Epirus has a good amount of rugged, mountainous landscape that does not lend itself to widespread winemaking.
Luckily, that’s not all of Epirus.
Most of the viticulture takes place in the valley that stretches from Ioannina, northwest to Zitsa. The Pindus Mountains border to the east.
I call it a valley, but there are large mountains to the east and west. Within the “valley,” there are numerous hills scattered about, and the valley is 2000+ feet above sea level.
The Mediterranian (Ionian) sea, approximately 40 miles west over the mountains, delivers summer rain and snow in the winter. The mountains and the higher elevation keep the warmer sea breezes out, creating a continental climate versus a Mediterranian one.
The cooler climate means a slower ripening period. Its leading wines are elegant, low-alcohol reds and refreshing still and sparkling whites.
Much of the soil contains limestone, which helps drain the heavy moisture away and avoid rot. This also makes the vines work harder, producing smaller grapes with higher sugar concentration.
The Ioannina Appellation.
This the largest of the three Epirus wine appellations.
It has P.G.I. status and produces a wide range of grape varieties for producing dry to semi-dry whites and roses. Also, they produce dry reds.
Zitsa Appellation.
Less than an hour’s drive northwest of Ioannina is the town of Zitsa and its wineries. A little closer to the sea and a higher elevation than Ioannina produces a different climate.
Zitsa has P.D.O. status (more rules and regulations) and makes top-rated wines.
Metsovo Appellation.
To the east, up into the Pindos mountains (3000+ feet elevation), are a few small winemakers. The rocky terrain is not conducive to large scale production. You will have to visit.
After WWII, Greece, along with several European countries, race to replace the vineyards and wine destroyed in the war.
Because of its mountainous locations, the Epirus wineries avoid the destruction going on all over Greece by the Germans. The bad news is that the Germans take any wine they find for themselves. After the war, vintners begin experimenting with different styles of grapes, making better wines.
The Epirus Wine Grapes.
The most popular grapes from the Epirus wine region are:
Epirus Whites.
- Debina – is the area’s champion white wine grape. It has been growing around Zitsa for hundreds of years. It is a young white, producing a delicate, dry, and crispy taste. The aroma is fruity and includes scents of apple, peach, and pear. It is also an important grape for the local sparkling wine. Debina makes up over 90% of the white grape production. Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminer make up the rest, mostly for blending.
Epirus Reds.
- Bekiari – is a red grape you only find in Epirus. It is ideal for light reds and roses due to its thin skin.
- Cabernet Sauvignon – is a grape you can find in almost every Greek wine region now. But guess where the first plants in Greece began circa the 1950s?
- Vlachiko – thrives off of cold climate, limited sunlight, and regular rainfalls. They use it to make a rose sparkling wine.
The good news is that recent interest in Epirus wines helps reintroduce other indigenous grapes to the local wines. Local wines complement local cuisine.
You need to sample Epirus wines now and go back in ten years to see where they are.
P.D.O. Epirus Wines.
- P.D.O. Zitsa – thrives at an altitude over 2000 feet above sea level. The area now includes parts of Ekali (northeast) and Klimatia (south), and Zitsa. The wines all contain 100% Debina grape. They produce dry, semi-sparkling/sparkling dry, semi-sparkling/sparkling, medium-dry, and sparkling medium-sweet whites through various processes.
P.G.I. Epirus Wines.
- P.G.I. Epirus – is the largest zone and stretches from Ioannina to Arta, Thesprotia, and Preveza. The area is in mountainous terrain, with the most extensive areas in the Ioannina district’s central part. Here they produce whites from dry to sweet, sparkling, roses, and dry reds.
- P.G.I. Ioannina – for the most part, covers the Ioannina and Zitsa wines that do not qualify for P.D.O. status. For the white wines, they only need to use up to 60% Debina. Rose wines require a minimum of 50% Vlachiko and Bekiari grape. The reds require a minimum of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.
- P.G.I. Metsovo – wines all grow at an altitude of 1600 feet or higher. Until 2008, they are only red wines from Cabernet Sauvignon. Today, they also grow Debina, Gewurztraminer, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Vlahiko. In addition to the traditional dry reds, they also produce dry to sweet whites.
This is an area that is starting to make a name for itself (again), and by the time I hit “save,” there will probably be some new wines to try.
In short, get to northern Greece and try the Epirus Wines.
Epirus Wineries.
As wine production grows, so will the number of wineries.
Here are some to give you an idea of all the wines you need to sample.
Domaine Glinavos – just outside Zitsa village on the east, has been making quality wines since 1978. After studying wine production in Bordeaux, Lefteris Glinavos becomes one of Greece’s first modern oenologists. In addition to Debina, Vlahiko, and Bekari grapes, they also plant many international varieties on their 145+ acres. Food pairings are available with the wine tasting with previous reservations.
Zoinos Winery – west of Zitsa village, dates from 1974 and is the oldest wine cooperative in Epirus. Using the Debina grape, they are producing quality dry whites, roses, and pink sparkling wines. They also produce the local tsipouro, a high octane liqueur from the grape distillate after pressing.
Katogi Averoff Hotel and Winery is in Metsovo’s village and is an award-winning hotel and award-winning winery. Evangelos Averoff brings the first Cabernet Sauvignon vine here in the late 1950s, hoping to revitalize the area. During the 18th and 19th centuries, Epirus wine was popular. Looking around today, I think most agree he did the Metsovo Miracle. A tour of the winery includes sampling their reds, whites, and roses. You may also prearrange food pairings. The hotel includes a restaurant that specializes in traditional Greek products with its breakfast. At night, it features a menu by Michelin star chef Nikos Karathanos.
There are some smaller wineries, one near Dodoni, and another near Zitsa that I am aware of. Unfortunately, they do not seem to open to the public. As I do not speak fluent Greek, this may or may not be the case.
Epirus Wine Summary.
The Greek wine world is centuries ahead of the United States in wine production.
Well, for that matter, it is ahead of most of Europe and the Western Hemisphere.
But where they lead in production, they fail at tooting their own horn.
Many people visit Greece without tasting the wine, and much too little reaches the shores of America.
If you are old enough to remember the Napa Valley of the late 1970s, you may have a time warp.
Epirus is much like it in feeling. The mountains are higher, and the towns smaller, but you get the personal feel in Epirus.
No tour buses are lining up outside. There are no bus parking lots.
Although they now have fancy machines, quite often, it is a family member pouring the wine.
For this reason, you should make reservations as opening times may vary.
I recommend confirming with all wineries in Greece.