THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Thanks to Jose Feliciano, most Americans, at least those over 40, know at least two Spanish words.
“Feliz Navidad” means I want to wish you a “Merry Christmas”.
However, “Prospero Ano y Felicidad” does not mean “from the bottom of my heart.”
I have the high school Spanish test to prove it.
So you would think that a stroll through Spain and a casual “Feliz Navidad” would get you through.
You would be as wrong as my Spanish test.
Spain has several versions of “Spanish.”
In Spanish (Castilian), you say Feliz Navidad. However, there are three other almost-official languages of Spain.
Catalan is similar to Spanish and is a co-official language in southern Spain’s Catalonia and Valencia communities. They also speak it on the Balearic Islands and neighboring Andorra. Here, Merry Christmas is “Bon Nadal.”
Galician is the local language of Galicia in northwest Spain. Here, a “Bo Nadal” will get you a little further.
In the Basque community in northeast Spain, you say “Eguberri on.”
It’s enough to make you drink Spanish wines.
Like the languages, Spain’s Christmas traditions are the same but different. How they celebrate in the North is not identical to the practices of the South.
However, they seem to agree on the exact dates, so let’s start there.
Come, we are walking.
Feliz Navidad and December 8th.
The Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary (Inmaculada) signals the beginning of the Christmas season.
While famous across Spain, in Seville, Inmaculada is the city’s Patron Saint.
In the Plaza del Triunfo (adjacent to the cathedral) is the statue of the Virgin Immaculada. Here, in traditional dress, musical groups from the university sing classic songs to young ladies. They call these groups “tunas,” and they represent the different university departments.
Also in Seville on December 8th is the “Baile de los Seises” (dance of the Sixes). Dating from the 16th century, six young boys sing while dancing in front of the Cathedral’s High Altar. Today, the number of singers varies.
Spanish Christmas and December 13th.
Santa Lucia (light) is the patron saint of the blind. She would feed the Christians in hiding while wearing candles on her head to see. December 13th is St Lucy’s Day and is the reason for the festival. Traditionally, the blind would sing Christmas carols during the festivities, but this is less common now.
Navidad on December 22nd.
Nothing says happy birthday to Jesus like indulging in a bit of vice.
“El Gordo” (the fat one) is Spain’s Christmas lottery and is the largest lottery in the world. Dating from 1812, it is also one of the oldest. Pre-printed tickets with a 5-digit number sell for 200 euros each. These tickets have ten sub-tickets (decimo) you can purchase.
Once they sell the first 99999 tickets, they start the second set of 99999 tickets. This system makes it almost impossible for one person to buy all winning tickets.
In 2021, there are 160 series, meaning 1600 winning decimos. A 2021 winning decimo is worth 400,000 euros, or just over $371,000 after taxes. The drawing also pays out on several additional levels, making for numerous winners.
There is a little partying in the streets after the drawing.
Some children participate in “Piden el Aguinaldo” in the days leading up to Christmas Eve. This activity involves them singing carols around their neighbors, hoping to receive monetary gifts.
Christmas Eve (Nochebuena).
Most Spanish families eat their large Christmas meal on Christmas Eve before mass.
A traditional dinner, “Pavo Trufado de Navidad” (Turkey stuffed with black truffles), was trendy. However, now that markets carry everything, seafood is quite popular. Lobster and shellfish such as crab are popular. Along the coast, seafood has always been more popular.
Popular Spanish desserts include the Mantecado. The base ingredients of these cookies are flour, sugar, and lard. But like Oreos, they have hundreds of additional flavors.
Lemon, almond, coconut, or extra cinnamon are just a few of the variations.
Polvorones are similar to Mantecados. These shortbread cookies, covered with powdered sugar, include flour, butter, sugar, and ground almonds.
This recipe makes for a drier cookie, which almost requires a shot of liqueur or sweet wine for dunking.
Turron is somewhere between a candy bar and nougat. Like a Mantecado, it starts with ground almond, but the other ingredients vary depending on where you are. The final product may be a soft nougat (Turron blando) or rock hard (Turron duro).
Mazapan is also popular, a mixture of ground almonds and sugar with some egg to bind. Some of the most famous are from the convents. However, many bakers use marzipan at Christmas to make scenes in their windows.
“La Misa Del Gallo” (The Mass of the Rooster) is the Christmas Eve mass. The name is due to a rooster who crowed the night that Jesus was born.
During the service, they sing traditional Christmas carols with musicians playing guitars, hand drums, and tambourines.
After the midnight service, some people walk through the streets carrying torches while the musicians follow, playing their instruments.
Navidad Gifts.
On Nochebuena, Santa Claus (Papa Noel) brings gifts to all the good children.
In the Basque Country, it’s Olentzero leaving the gifts. He is a big, overweight man who wears a beret and smokes a pipe. He dresses like a traditional Basque farmer.
In Cataluna and Aragon it is Tio (Tizon) de Nadal. Tio is not actually a person but a Christmas log. A small hollow log propped up on two stick legs. He has a smiling face painted on one end. Beginning on the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, they give the log a few morsels of food to eat. (Similar to Santa’s cookies and milk).
On Navidad Eve or day, a somewhat disturbing tradition begins. First, they hit the log with sticks while singing a song. Then, from the end opposite the face, Tio drops “gifts.” These may be sweets, nuts, or dried fruits.
Thanks to a specific brown emoji, the Christmas log also uses a more descriptive name.
Día de Navidad.
On Christmas Day, families gather together to eat again, but not in the quantities of the night before. Children may receive a gift, but the major gift-giving is still to come. Unfortunately, there are no college football games in Spain on Christmas day.
New Year’s Eve.
You celebrate Christmas Eve with your family, but you celebrate Nochevieja (New Year’s Eve) with friends.
Dinner and socializing lead up to the last 12 seconds of the year. At this point, everyone eats the 12 uvas de la Suerte (12 lucky grapes).
Each grape represents a month in the coming year, and eating them brings you luck. Therefore, you should eat one at each chime of the hour. Warning: most grapes in Spain have seeds.
Feliz Navidad in January?
January 5th.
Towns throughout Spain have parades featuring floats with musicians and people in costume. However, the most crucial float does not have a fat man in a red suit but the Tres Reyes Magos. The Three Kings wave to all the children before visiting them later that night.
Families then return home for an early dinner. After dinner, the children clean their shoes and leave them in the living room before bed. Then, in the wee hours of the night, the Tres Reyes Magos leave presents by the boots.
January 6th.
Children jump out of their beds early and race to see what gifts are sitting by their shoes.
Fiesta de Los tres Reyes Magos celebrates the Epiphany when the Kings arrive with gifts for the baby Jesus.
Today is the big day for presents. Not only do the three kings leave gifts, but so do the children. Before going to bed the night before, they leave a glass of brandy for each king. They may also leave a satsuma (mandarin orange) and walnuts. In addition, some will leave a bucket of water for the king’s camels.
A special cake, the Roscon (ring-shaped), is a special treat on the Epiphany. Spain’s version of a King’s Cake may have cream or chocolate filling. Somewhere inside is a little gift.
Navidad Pastorets.
Throughout the season, many towns present these presentations of the Christmas Story.
Nativity Scenes (Pesebres) are even more popular.
The Spanish go all out with their setups, also known as Belenes (Bethlehem). Often, the scenes include the whole town of Bethlehem and its inhabitants, down to the last animal.
Another Spanish tradition involving the digestive system is the El Caganer (the pooper). There is no definitive explanation for this figure, which possibly dates from the 17th century.
Each year, they hide this squatting figure somewhere in the Belenes like a “Waldo” you need to find.
Beginning as a peasant or fieldhand, today, many figures resemble politicians and entertainers.
Feliz Navidad Markets.
Christmas markets are in many major towns and villages. Here, you can find small gifts, ornaments, and food, many with a Spanish twist.
The closer you get to Christmas day, the more Spain closes down, especially in smaller towns.
You will need to go to the Pyrenees if you are hoping for a white Christmas. Northern Spain will get cold, but probably not frozen. In the south, the closer you get to the Mediterranean, the warmer it will be.
Here are just a few of the towns that get into Christmas.
Barcelona Navidad.
Not only will you find Navidad lights, but there are several markets. You can find nativity scenes outside and even ice skating.
Bilbao.
Gifts and decorations at the markets will have a Basque twist to them. The food and local wine is incredible, and you can meet Olentzero.
Granada Navidad.
You will find markets at Fuente de las Batallas and in the Plaza Bib-Rambla. There are many Christmas concerts and outdoor nativities.
Madrid.
Besides the large market in Plaza Mayor Square, there are parades and millions of lights. Madrid really celebrates Navidad.
Malaga at Christmas.
The city hosts Christmas light shows each night with music. These start in late November.
There are markets, and check out the “Route of the Nativities.” The Botanical Garden also has amazing lights.
Seville at Christmas.
Parades, concerts, and Navidad markets compete with the lights as to what is best.
Toledo.
This medieval town is a fascinating place year-round, but at Christmas, it’s just a little better. It is a shame more Americans do not visit here. The Alcazar fortress and Gothic cathedral are both must-see sites.
Valencia.
Any time of the year, visit the Central Market, but especially at Christmas. It swells in size, and many places sell fresh Christmas treats. You will find nativity scenes everywhere, but make sure to check out the one in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento.
Feliz Navidad Summary.
There is no way to cover every town and village. So explore on your own.
Spain is a fascinating country that does not get as many visitors as it should. Barcelona and Madrid are always busy, but there is much more to see.
Why not visit Spain in December and have a Feliz Navidad?
Would you please scroll down to the “Hey Explorer, what are your thoughts” section below?
Then, please comment or tell me your thoughts on:
“Would you consider going to Spain for Navidad?”
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.