December 20, 2020 – Christmas in Greece.

Thom

4 years ago

THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.

Christmas and Greece are two things I really like.

Kala Christougenna means Merry (happy) Christmas in Greek.

They do not celebrate Thanksgiving in November as Americans do. Our yearly day of thanks on the fourth Thursday does not go globally.

However, Black Friday is now universal. THIS is the holiday tradition we pass on?

I have seen Christmas decorations in Greece as early as the first week of November but most wait until December.

Greek Christmas Decorations

You will not find too many going overboard on outdoor decorations as you might find, say, in my yard.

However, they do decorate.

Thessaloniki has several areas with decorations. There’s a tree by a grand hotel.

Malls and city sidewalks have decorations.

A Greek Christmas window, in Glyfada (Athens), glistening once again.

While smaller towns have less commercial and more traditional decorations.

Trikala, in Thessaly, is festive at night.

And even the villages that cannot afford super-sized decorations get into the holiday spirit.

Leonidio, in the Peloponnese, shows their Christmas spirit.

Greek Christmas Markets

Athens, Thessaloniki, Trikala, Drama, and Ioannina have several Christmas markets. Other towns may have markets or festivals all month or just one weekend.

Athen’s has a Christmas Factory, complete with candy and a separate toy factory. Kids can meet Santa, and there are amusement rides and many food options. An indoor ice-skating rink in Athen’s has the Santa Claus Kingdom during the holidays, complete with kids’ rides.

In Ioannina, they convert one of the small amusement parks into a holiday park.

Thessaloniki’s Aristotelous Square, the Ancient Agora area, and their International Fair offer everything for the season. You will find Greek Christmas ornaments, treats, Santa Claus’ house, and amusement park rides.

Greek Christmas Entertainment

Even before 2020, outdoor concerts with bands or children’s choirs pop up everywhere, especially closer to Christmas eve. The Greek National Opera and Ballet offer performances during December. They may also include holiday programs.

Greek Christmas in the Outdoors

Snow skiing on Santorini? Hardly. It’s too hot there for snow.

The Olympian temple of Zeus in Athens rarely sees snow.

But 100 miles further south, they are swooshing down Mt Psiloritis on Crete. You will not find a ski resort here, but some local enthusiasts began the Pierra Creta in 2014. The inspiration is from the French Alp’s Pierra Menta. The Crete version takes place every other year in March. Currently, the 2021 event is still a go. Skiers compete in two different levels of cross-country.

There are ski resorts for those looking for downhill less than two hours from Athen’s, Ioannina, Patras (Peloponnese), and more. Greece has several mountain peaks over 9000 feet high.

With the snow comes hearty Greek meals, wine, and Metaxa.

Or maybe, find a hillside village in the mountains and have a very low key holiday.

Metsovo, a quaint village between Ioannina and Meteora.

Greek Christmas Cuisine.

Speaking of hearty Greek meals, what else do the holidays bring?

Like every other country celebrating Christmas, Greece has many treats that show up, especially at Christmas. Some now appear for every festival. Some are national, while some are still regional. Here are just a few.

Melomakarona

These cookies are probably the most traditional Greek Christmas treat. They start with semolina flour, olive oil, and honey. From here, there are as many recipes as Greek Yia Yia’s (grandmothers). They add orange, lemon, cinnamon, crushed nuts, some of the above, all of the above…

Kourabiedes

These cookies are, (no Greek will ever accept this), probably from the Ottomans during their 500-years-too-long stay.

The main ingredients include butter, flour, sugar, salt, and almonds. And as usual, the BEST ones include Yia Yia’s touch of vanilla, Metaxa (brandy), mastika, rose water, or…

They shape them into little crescents or circles, or balls or… All of these are the BEST shape.

Hot out of the oven, they roll them in powdered sugar, and then a second time when they are cool.

Koulourakia

Once, you would find this traditional Greek cookie only at Easter. Depending on where in Greece you are, you may also find them at Christmas. Traditionally, they hand-shape the buttery dough into rings, braids, figure eights, Greek letters, or… They may add a clove on top for additional flavor.

Mamounia

The Limnos island version of the Kourabiedes includes dipping them in honey before rolling in the sugar.

Because they are not too sweet already.

Psarakia

Are another version from the island of Tinos. Using a similar dough, they put walnuts in the middle. Another twist is they may fry them (or bake). Then a sprinkling of sugar.

Karydokourabiedes

And another variation from Arcadia includes nuts and healthy measures of cinnamon, clove, or…

Pontic Isli

A cookie much like the Melomakarona as it starts with a similar dough. However, they stuff it with walnut, sugar, cinnamon filling. Then they use a tool like tweezers to create designs in the dough. After baking, they drizzle a honey lemon syrup over the cookie.

Diples

This is a Greek Christmas pastry coming from the Peloponesse. They roll dough into long, thin strips, fold them, and fry them in hot olive oil. When they come out of the oil, they dip them in a sugar or honey syrup.

Christopsomo

Another food item the Greeks were not the first to make. Also going by the name Armenian Easter bread, this sweet bread has roots back to the Persian Empire.

The Greek version at Christmas has a cross out of dough on the top. For New Year’s Day, they bake a lucky coin inside. At Easter, you will find hard-boiled eggs.

Mamoulia

It is a Greek Christmas cookie from the island of Chios. The dough has a filling of almonds, pistachios, walnuts, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, or a combination. After baking, they may sprinkle them with rose water before dusting them with sugar.

Vasilopita

This is actually a New Years’ treat. It may be bread or a cake. Both are right. The yeast bread has an orange zest for flavor and sesame seeds on top.

The cake version does not include yeast or orange. It reminds me of a pound cake.

Into the treat, they bake a coin. On New Years’ Day, they slice it. Traditionally, the first slice going to Christ, then the eldest to the youngest. The one receiving the coin receives extra luck.

Are these the only Greek Christmas sweets? Hardly. But these are enough to spike your glucose levels.

Greek Christmas Celebrations.

Christmas celebrations in Greece start on Christmas Eve and last for 14 days. They end on Epiphany (January 6) with the ‘Great Blessing of Water.’

The Greek Orthodox Church, following the Gregorian calendar, celebrates Christmas on December 25.

Mosaic of the Virgin Mary and Jesus Christ.

Traditionally, kids get presents from Aghios Vassilis (Saint Vasilis (Basil)) on January 1st (St Basil’s Day). The gift-giving period now stretches over many days, depending on the household.

Decorating ships is an old tradition in Greece. Small ship models would receive decorations when sailors returned from sea voyages. With the advent of outdoor lights, larger models (sometimes frames) began to appear in harbors. Several mainland ports now sport boat displays and you will certainly find them in the islands.

It seems King Otto is the first to have a Christmas tree in Greece circa 1833. It is a tradition from his home country, Bavaria. After World War II, Christmas trees became more popular than decorating a boat. Luckily, it is now popular to have both.

Another place you may see boats are young boys caroling on the islands. Singing for treats, they carry a small boat, usually with nuts inside or as decoration. They sing these kalandas (carols) all-day on Christmas Eve.

A bowl resembling a boat is also part of an ancient tradition. A cross with a sprig of Basil hangs over the bowl, water in the bowl keeping the Basil fresh. This takes place during the 12 days of Christmas up to Epiphany. Dipping the cross in Holy Water and sprinkling each house’s room keeps the kallkantzaroi (bad) spirits away. They only come during this period. Also, keep a fire going as they can only enter down the chimney.

Don’t start with me, the fat guy probably comes in the door. Or maybe he’s a good spirit.

Christmas Eve.

Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve marks the end of the Advent fast.

Christmas day begins with Kataifi (a pastry of shredded filo dough and nuts and cinnamon for flavoring). Theeples (diples) are also popular in the morning.

The main meal is usually pork or lamb they roast in an oven or over a spit. Like any special Greek meal, it comes with an overdose of savory pies, various salad and vegetable dishes, and wine.

Pies with cheese, spinach, or other fillings are common.

New Years

Besides the lucky bread and lucky cake, there is the Pothariko. This tradition says the first-born, or “lucky” child or man of the house must first enter the house. Also, they must do it with their right foot. This brings luck for a year.

In other parts of Greece, they spread pomegranate seeds.

Epiphany

On the 6th of January, the Greek Orthodox Church celebrates the baptism of Jesus. The Waters’ Blessing includes a priest blessing a cross and throwing it in a cold body of water. Young men (surprisingly, not at gunpoint) dive in to be the first to get the cross, which will bring luck. Then the Greeks have a festival, bless the boats, dance, eat and drink.

Greek Christmas Summary

Who knew all this was going on in Greece?

On the mainland, you will find villages to cities with various traditions and decorations. And near the mountains, the possibility of snow.

And just because most of the islands will not have snow, that’s no reason to ignore them. The smaller islands all but close up in the winter, so that lodging may be a problem. But the larger islands go year-round, and the holidays are no exception.

So next time you are thinking of European Christmas markets, keep Greece in mind.

Jesus, traditions, homemade goodies, decorations, and saganaki. What could be more Christmasy?