In a previous post, I gave some information on Christmas markets in Eastern Europe. Those with bloodlines tracing back to this region were as happy as children finding their most sought-after toy under the tree. Those descending from other countries had the same look as a child opening the box of underwear from grandma.
So let’s look at the rest of Europe.
Other Markets in Europe.
Northern Europe.
Some people don’t think Christmas markets exist outside of Eastern Europe. But they do. And they are magical.
Belgium
Milk, dark, with nuts, with fruits, solid blocks, or liquid heaven, chocolate is on the menu in Belgium. Then there is the Belgium Waffle, and the Liege Waffle or a baguette dipped in savory melted raclette cheese.
Besides the Belgium favorites, you will find the grilled sausages from neighboring Germany, French-style champignons, and even Italian pasta.
Favorite cities to check out include Antwerp, Brussels, Bruges, and Ghent.
Germany
Germany has a reputation for Christmas markets and should. They have been hosting them for more than 400 years.
Meats and sausages of all kinds are sizzling from many stalls and the Knoblauchbrot, fried garlic bread with sour cream, will meet your nostrils from several stands away. Spätzle is egg noodles that they boil and then pan-fry in butter. Topping options include chopped ham or fried onions. Reibekuchen/Kartoffelpuffer are potato pancakes they finish with a variety of toppings.
On the sweets side, the Schmalzküchen is one of the stars of the market. These lemon vanilla mini doughnuts are addicting. Schaumkuss are chocolates with a marshmallow/meringue center. They come in various flavors and are very sweet. The German version of fruitcake is Stollen. It can be savory (with olives) or sugary (dried fruit). Gebrannte Mandeln is sugared almonds. Even if you’re not an almond fan, they can be addicting.
Traditional cookies include the Lebkuchen (similar to gingerbread) and Pfeffernüsse (spice/gingerbread).
In addition to the glühwein and Heiße Schokolade (hot chocolate,) they have Eierpunsch, a sweet boozy egg-based drink (think eggnog) which they serve warm.
Favorite cities to check out include Berlin, Dresden, Munich, Rothenburg, Cologne, and Stuttgarter.
France
You will find sweet and savory waffles, chestnuts from the south of France and small cookies from Alsace called Bredele. Beignets are famous, and several markets will have local wine by the glass.
Favorite cities to check out include Strasbourg, (all of Alsace,) Lille, Bordeaux, Colmar, Honfleur, and Paris.
Holland
The Netherlands takes a little planning as many towns have markets for a limited time. Maastricht and Valkenburg (underground) go the entire month, while some special ones only last a weekend. (Heemskerk Castle Christmas, Dordrecht, and Haarlem to name a few.)
Kerstkransjes (Christmas wreath cookies) are edible ornaments you hang on the tree and eat. (not recommended as ornaments in houses with dogs.) No holiday would be complete without an Oliebollen which is a Dutch version of a beignet.
Appelflappen is a beignet with apple filling. Kerststol is the Dutch version of fruitcake (just try one bite.) Another traditional treat is the Banketstaaf (banketletters,) a pastry they shape into a log or a letter containing an almond flavor paste.
There are numerous traditional cookies including the kruidnoten, a crisp small spice cookie, and the Speculaas, a spiced shortcrust biscuit. And then there is the Marzipan, which is sugar, sometimes a little honey, almond oil, and lots more sugar.
Why so many sweets? Many of their traditional treats stem from a time when sugar and spice were at a premium. Therefore, they would only use these on special occasions and festivals. You will be able to find traditional pea soup and grilled meats as well.
Bischopswijn (Bishop’s wine) is the Dutch version of mulled wine. They enhance the red wine with sugar, spices, orange, lemon, cloves and cinnamon sticks.
Advocaat (advocatenborrel) is a traditional Dutch drink made from eggs, sugar, and brandy. Additional flavoring may include honey, vanilla, and sometimes cream. In other words, think Dutch eggnog.
Favorite cities to check out in addition to the ones mentioned above include Amsterdam, Deventer, The Hague, and Dordrecht. Check for dates and duration.
Also check out the Baltic countries, the United Kingdom, Ireland and Switzerland.
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Other Markets in Southern Europe
When you say European Christmas Markets, Southern Europe drops off many people’s radar. You don’t know what you’re missing. These other markets are worth experiencing.
Italy
From the handmade nativity scenes (presepi) of Naples to Milan’s December fair (early December), Italy puts on a great holiday. They are the first to admit they did not invent Christmas markets. Instead, they borrow from their neighbors and put an Italian spin to it.
In the Northwest, near the border with France, you will find tartiflette, a French dish with potatoes, reblochon cheese, onions, and pancetta. Also look for melted Alpine cheeses and local wines. Other market sweets include micooula, the local version of panettone.
South Tyrol, (Bolzano, Merano, Bressanone, Brunico, and Vipiteno,) near Italy’s border with Austria and Switzerland, also borrows from its neighbors. Famous for its apples (cider and strudel), speck (smoked meat), cheese, and wine.
Also try the other market goodies such as gnocchi, polenta, local cookies, biscotti, and tiramisu. Here they call the Christmas cake Zolten.
Florence hosts one of the most famous German Christmas Markets outside Germany, the Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt. So the culinary choices range from bratwurst to panforte, the local version of fruitcake.
Other favorite cities to check out include Trento, Rome, Naples, and Verona.
Greece City Markets.
Surely Greece does not have Christmas; it’s too sunny. I hear this same comment when I mention I celebrate Christmas in South Florida. We celebrate Christmas in the south.
There is also the misconception that Greece is warm year-round. In December, daytime temperatures are in the low to mid-50s. At night, it can drop down into the 40s. That is cocoa drinking weather to me.
The cities do not have the significant Christmas markets of other European countries. Athens and Thessaloniki do decorate their main squares and Christmas traditions, and dishes are on display. Also, boats get decorations and lights strung about them.
In addition, we need to thank Greece for a significant contribution to all the other markets in Europe. In 992 A.D. monk Gregory of Nicopolis (a town located in modern-day western Greece) set off to Bondaroy in north-central France. Here he taught the French Christians how to prepare the recipe he brought with him, gingerbread. So although many places will tell you they invented gingerbread, they didn’t. They only added their local twist.
Also see Spain, Portugal and even Christmas traditions in Turkey.
Other Markets Summary.
As always, this article just skims the surface. There are more countries, more towns and multiple markets in several of them.
Therefore, this post is not telling you what you “must-see” or what are “the best” other markets in Europe.
The idea is to get you to dream of your perfect Christmas market. See the possibilities and then darn it, make a trip there happen.
What tradition or holiday food item holds a special place in your heart?
If your roots go back to Europe, there is probably a Christmas market that is the “best” for you.
“See France“ Continued on Page T8. “Taste Milan” Continued on T14