THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
France is a place where Christmas traditions have been taking place for centuries.
Due to its geography, sharing borders with other European countries along the east, France shares some of their traditions.
The lands along the current border have seen numerous countries, duchies, and kingdoms as their landlords.
The intermarriage of the royal families would also bring new traditions and culinary dishes with the bride.
There are few places in France where you cannot find Christmas markets and decorations on some scale.
However, along France’s eastern side, you will find some places that take it to a new level.
Let’s take a Christmas walk through them.
Noel a Paris.
Indeed, the central city will have decorations and markets to stroll.
In Paris you can find them on the Place du Trocadéro, in Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and in Place de la Nation.
And a stop to see the tree under the dome at Galeries Lafayette, Paris, should be on the list.
And while this is a great place to start, don’t stop.
Noel dans le Nord (North) de la France.
The north of France already has a reputation for great food and drink. Now add the magic of the holidays.
Just over 75 miles north of Paris is the town of Amiens, famous for macaroons, chocolate orange cookies, and more. From the end of November through December, it also hosts the largest Christmas market in northern France.
Rouen is just over an hour to the west.
Our next stop is just over an hour to the northeast of Amiens.
Lille is a beautiful town any time of the year. Lille is the capital of the Hauts-de-France region in northern France. Its proximity to Belgium means it has a history with and influences from Flanders.
Vieux Lille, the historic center, is worth a stroll to see why Lille is one of several European Capitals of Culture.
At Noel time, Lille offers more than 80 chalets offering ornaments, gifts, food, and nativity figurines.
iLa Grand-Place is the center of activity from late November through December.
Noel Reims.
This Noel treat is about two hours south of Lille and about the same east of Paris. Reims is the unofficial capital of the Champagne sparkling wine region. Year-round you can sample champagne and enjoy cellar tours.
Just a few of the houses in town are Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger, and G.H. Martel.
Nearby you can see, unfortunately, only the outside of Louis Roederer, Bollinger, Krug, and others.
The champagne town of Épernay, home to Moet & Chandon and others, is only 30 minutes to the south.
So Reims is worth a visit anytime but think of December as adding Christmas fun to champagne.
Around the Cathedral, more than 140 chalets are offering Noel treasures you may not even know. Try a pink, oblong Rose de Reims biscuit. Or a local chocolate truffle with a glass of bubbly.
These three towns make a lovely introduction to France at Christmas. What a charming four-night round-trip, including one night in Paris.
Noel dans l’Est (East) de la France.
Further east from Paris, along the Rhine river valley, are towns with a varied pedigree. Here the borders have been going back and forth for centuries. Germany and Switzerland border much of France in this area today, but you will also find past influences.
Noel Metz.
Approximately three hours east of Paris is Metz. It sits along the Moselle and Seille rivers and has multiple ethnic ancestors.
In the first week of December, they start the season with the Saint Nicolas festivities. Then, chalets, food, and entertainment will fill six of the city’s squares for the rest of December.
Christmas in Montbeliard.
Montbeliard is 2.5 hours drive south of Metz and about one hour west of the Rhine. It resides in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region of France and is less than 10 miles from the border with Switzerland. Although never under Swiss rule, it will pass in and out of German authority over the centuries.
At Christmas, Montbéliard revives Württemberg, the tradition of lighting trees with real candles. The Christmas market has more than 160 chalets with authentic crafts and food items.
During advent, Aunt Airie (Arie), a protective fairy, appears along with Father Christmas.
Mulhouse.
Less than one hour east of Montbeliard is this industrial textile town. It is home to the largest automobile and railway museums in the world. Its industrial heritage also influences its Christmas festivities.
As you walk through Place de la Réunion, notice the local cloth and fabric printing intertwining with holiday gifts. Some of the chalets look like royal tents due to their fabrics. And do not forget the local treats.
Noel Colmar.
Less than an hour’s drive north is perhaps the poster child for Christmas villages. Colmar is less than 15 miles from the German border, and it reflects the traits of several nations.
The cobblestone streets of its old town weave between half-timbered medieval and buildings from the early Renaissance. Eglise Saint-Martin, the Gothic 13th-century church, dominates the place de la Cathédrale.
In addition, the town sits on the Alsace Wine Route, featuring Riesling and Gewurztraminer wines.
At Christmas, Colmar has six different markets, although you will not be able to tell where one ends or begins.
It is like walking into a Department 56 Christmas village with the lights and decorations.
You will find Colmar on just about everyone’s top five list for Christmas villages. This popularity means there will be crowds. Remember, the streets are for pedestrians and ox carts, not large crowds or vehicles. So chill and accept it. Luckily most things are within walking distance of each other.
Noel Strasbourg.
There is nothing small about Strasbourg, the capital city of the Grand Est (formerly Alsace) region. Due to its history, it includes German and French influences. Germany is across the Rhine river. The Cathédrale Notre Dame is a Gothic masterpiece complete with an astronomical clock.
Strasbourg touts itself as the Capital of Christmas, and looking at the crowds, it is the winner. But you cannot miss the city because of the masses. There is a reason why they are there.
More than 300 chalets spread out from the Christmas Tree on Place Kléber Square. Stroll Rue des Orfèvres and the other small streets shimmering with lights and decorations.
Attend a concert in the church, or be in place for the tree lighting each night at 5:00 pm.
And then there are the treats. Bredele are Alsatian Christmas cookies. The Winstubs are Alsacian restaurants with traditional dishes and authentic decor.
If that’s not enough to fill your tummy, there are more than 30 Michelin restaurants in Strasbourg.
You need more than one night here.
Trains back to Paris can take two to four hours, depending on the type. Trains are a great way to travel during busy holiday times. Parking is at a premium in tourist towns, and snow is a strong possibility.
To do eastern France justice, you need a week.
Noel Summary.
These are some of the most popular towns throughout France but far from all of them.
Each little village has its traditions for the Noel season.
Hopefully, this blog gives you some ideas and places to start.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.