In a previous post, I discussed the “best” Christmas for you. In it, I touched on Christmas markets. Several people had questions about the markets. So, let’s take a more in-depth look.
The BEST Christmas Markets.
This expression, overused in every corner of advertising and marketing, makes me a little crazy. Is the Yugo the “best” car ever? It sold over 150,000 in the United States during its run.
What about Cabbage Patch Kids? They sold millions of them. Are they the “best” toy or doll ever?
People always ask me, “where is the best place to go,” or “what is your favorite place?” And I always ask, “For what?”
So, what makes a Christmas market the “best?” Every Christmas, list after list appears saying what market is “best.” Zagreb, Vienna, and Prague always seem to be at the top of lists, but why? What makes them the best?
Home is Where Your Heart.
Christmas is a season for home, family, and traditions.
My ancestors came from the United Kingdom, Ireland, and Germany. My guess is several of the family Christmas recipes, and other traditions stem from these countries as well. Therefore, I might enjoy these markets more than Vienna and Prague due to familiarity.
Along the lines of tradition, you can also add religious beliefs. In Prague, the main religion of those who believe in the Christian faith is Catholic.
I was not brought up in the Catholic Church. So although we believe in the same higher power, there are differences in our way of conducting services. Maybe even what Christmas songs we sing.
So, the Czech Republic might not be my first choice as “best” Christmas destination for me.
That does not mean I do not want to experience it. I look forward to hearing a Czech choir tell me about Wenceslaus I, Duke of Bohemia in song. (He became a king after his assassination). How neat to stand in Prague as he did and look out on the Feast of Stephen, when the snow lay round about, deep and crisp and even.
Bigger isn’t Best.
Rarely do I find that bigger is better. Cruise ships of 3000+ guests, resorts covering acres, and hotels with miles of hallways are not on my list. Are they engineering miracles? Most often yes. Do I want to be in or on one of them for more than 30 minutes? No.
The same is true of markets. In Paris, the Village de Noël at La Défense is massive. It has over 350 temporary chalets selling any/everything imaginable. They even have an area of French-Canadian items. It puts me in a Christmas mood, but the crowds and the size remind me more of a mall.
For me, I prefer the smaller markets. Although there may be crowds, they often tend to be more the locals. Also, more personal interaction seems to happen in smaller markets.
For example, in Paris, the Abbesses Christmas Market in Montmartre has maybe twenty chalets. Each one seems different (variety). The mass markets often have several booths that are almost identical. You start to suffer deja vu.
And then there is the charm. The smaller markets feel like walking into the mom and pop store from your childhood instead of the big-box store.
I Could Have Dined All Night.
First, let’s understand that some markets are merely a few stalls selling merchandise with a candy or popcorn stand. However, others can be a culinary winter wonderland.
Cocoa, gingerbread, and mulled wine are pretty commonplace at many markets, but some markets bump it up. Here is a quick glimpse.
Eastern Europe.
There is still something mysterious about the countries that were behind the wall. A strange land frozen in time since the wall went up in 200 B.C.
In reality, the wall went up in 1961, so it did not protect/freeze the traditions. They were already firmly in place. The great news, they were still there when the wall came down.
Even better news for their marketing departments, Americans are curious to see them.
Austria
This country has been doing Christmas markets for more than 600 years, and they do them well. Edibles to seek out include Gözleme, a pancake made by hand, an open-faced grilled Raclette cheese sandwich, Erdäpfelpuffer, a potato pancake, and Rösti, a potato fritter.
Krapfen is a local doughnut and roasted almonds, are the traditional nut.
Fruit punch with or without liquor is available in addition to mulled wine.
Favorite cities to check out include Vienna, Innsbruck, Salzburg, and Graz.
Hungary Christmas Markets
The markets seem to be an even balance of shopping and food/entertainment.
Kürtőskalács (Chimney Cake) is a warm doughnut-like treat on a stick. It’s Hungary, so you find (and taste) strudel on every corner. A beigli is a spiral-shaped pastry with sweet walnut or poppyseed filling. They serve them in thin slices, so you don’t feel guilty about getting a second.
For a heartier meal, there is Gulyásleves (Goulash Soup,) töltött káposzta (Stuffed Cabbage,) Toki pompos, a Hungarian pizza with bacon, and onion, and Paprikás krumpli (Paprika Potatoes.)
Besides the mulled-wine, try a glass of Hungarian sparkling wine.
Budapest has the major Christmas markets. Smaller towns will have holiday events but not a month-long market.
Poland Christmas Markets
Polish markets are a delight at Christmas. Each city is different from the others, and you should check them all out. One thing they have in common is a large selection of traditional foods to taste.
Smalec is a traditional spicey spread they layer on hot slices of fresh bread. Toppings may include sausage, bacon, fried onions or ogórki (Polish-style pickles.) Ocsypek is smoked sheep cheese. They heat it in small pieces and serve it plain or with cranberry or red currant jelly.
Piernik is Poland’s take on gingerbread. You can find the hard version in cookies but try the cake-like version as well. Also, try the Krowki, a cream fudge and sample the many different traditional cookies.
Favorite cities to check out include Krakow, Warsaw, Gdansk, and Wroclaw.
The Czech Republic Christmas Markets
The Christmas markets in Prague are some of the best known in Europe. Like many cities, there are several. Most popular are the Old Town Square, Havel Square, Wenceslas Square, Republic Square, Peace Square, and the Holešovice Exhibition Grounds. There are enough to fill a whole season. You can feel the traditions through cultural programs, glittering decorations, and Christmas specialties.
Sunka is Spit-roasted ham. You will smell it long before you see it. Klobasy, barbecued sausages also send the salivatory glands into high production mode. Bramboraky is a salty potato pancake. Some add grated garlic or onion for additional flavoring.
Vanocka is the traditional Czech Christmas cake. More like a fruit bread than a fruitcake, you should try a piece with some mulled wine.
Vanocni cukrovi is a traditional sugar, butter, egg, flour cookie which is the parent of many offspring. Depending on the shape or if you add a topping, you can create several cookies from the same batter. Try them all. Maslove Pecivo is more of a butter cookie. Plain, with a chocolate coating or strawberry jam in the middle, these are also on the tasting requirement list. Medvedi Tlapicky (Bear Paws Cookie) is a cocoa cookie with almonds for the claws. Vanilkove Rohlicky (Vanilla Crescents) They roll in sugar (confection or flavored) after baking.
Trdelnik is a sweet pastry dough that they wrap around a metal stick and grill over an open flame. Then they sprinkle with sugar, or with a filling like ice cream. Every country in Eastern Europe has a variation of this.
Traditional drinks include the Czech versions of Mulled wine, Mead, Punch, and Eggnog.
Besides Prague, favorite cities to check out include Český Krumlov, Brno, and Olomouc.
While in Eastern Europe, also check out Slovakia, Slovenia, Romania, and Croatia.
Christmas Markets Summary.
These are only some of the countries in Europe that celebrate Christmas. Of these countries, I touched on very few of the cities with markets. Of these cities, I only mentioned a few of the venues. Some towns have over ten different markets.
In other words, you could spend a month eating your way through the markets. I’m in.
In future posts, I will cover other European countries.
Let me ask you something. From where does your Christmas come?
“See Thessaloniki“Continued on Page T8. “Taste France” Continued on T14