December 06, 2020 – The Alhambra.

Thom

4 years ago

THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.

Palace of the Lions is one of many palaces within the Alhambra.

Who are the first people in Spain?

That depends on where you are standing. If you are in northern or central Spain, it is probably the Iberians, with relics dating back to 5500 B.C.

If you are standing along the Mediterranian coast, there is evidence of the Phoenicians (Greeks) since circa 1100 B.C.

The Carthaginians attack the coast circa 550 B.C.

Circa 206 B.C., the Roman general Scipio defeats the Carthaginians and claims Spain for Rome. The Romans will hold on to Spain for around 900 years.

Trouble From the South.

Circa 712 A.D., Moors, living in Morocco, cross into Southern Spain. In less than forty years, they will control Portugal and Spain except in the northwest.

They set up a sub-capital in Cordoba. The rename Spain Al-Andalus.

Almost immediately, the Berber warriors begin infighting with the Moors.

A group from Syria receives a little Roman outpost, Ihverir, in the foothills, as their share in the spoils.

They rename it Elvira and restore the town upon the Roman ruins.

The separate walled Jewish neighborhood on the hill outside town they name Albaicin.

The Reconquista.

The reconquest of Spain and Portugal from the Moors begins immediately. It will take approximately 780 years.

Christian soldiers are practicing before a battle with the Moors.

The Fall of Elvira.

Circa 1010, Arabic troops (fighting amongst themselves) sack Elvira. The survivors take refuge up the hill in the Albaicin.

Zawi ben Ziri comes along and picks up the pieces. He forms an independent kingdom and has his fort (The Alcazaba) built upon the Jewish ghetto on the hill.

They rename the town Garnata.

Muhammad Ibn Yusuf Ibn Nasr conquers Garnata (circa 1238) and begins his own dynasty, the Nasrid.

He renovates the fortress, more as a palace, with many intricate details.

Each Emirate of Granada will add to the palace. Yusuf I, Sultan of Granada in 1333, makes the Alhambra a royal palace. (Nasrid, Palaces).

The Nasrid secret to longevity is they purchase protection from the Kingdom of Castile with gold they import from Africa. They also provide military assistance against other Muslim areas.

The Kingdom of Granada.

As the last Islamic Emirate in Europe, it was bound to happen. In 1482, Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile turn their eyes and forces on Granada.

Grenada defends itself for nine years but finally surrenders. The Muslim Period in Spain comes to an end after only 750+ years.

Ferdinand and Isabella move into the Alhambra, making it the base of their court.

Ferdinand and Isabella are sending Christopher Columbus on a trip.

They immediately go about enlarging the palace and adding Renaissance features.

Isabella dies in 1504 and Ferdinand 12 years later. Their grandson Charles takes over and builds a new palace (Charles V Palace) on the Alhambra.

As he takes on more titles, including Holy Roman Emperor, he begins ruling from Castile allowing the city to rule itself.

With no royals in town, the royal palace falls into disrepair. It remains that way for nearly 300 years.

Granada Renaissance, Almost.

By the 1800s, something by the name of Tourism is spreading across Europe. Some make their way to Granada.

With a little money, the town can repair a little of the massive castle complex.

Circa 1874. railway construction connects Granada with the outside world. Tourism continues to grow.

Circa 1900, approximately 18,000 people are visiting Granada a year. A Duke builds a grand hotel with a casino. The famous across Europe begin to visit. The future looks great.

Grand Hotels attract the grand of Europe.

Then the 1936 Spanish Civil War begins. The Nationalists (Socialist) win the war. They will rule Spain until their leader, Francisco Franco’s death in November 1975.

As of the last report, Francisco Franco is still dead.

Tourism begins to return to Spain. The site finally gets the makeover the ol’ girl deserves.

The Alhambra.

Sitting on Alhambra Hill are two of Granada’s three UNESCO World Heritage Site, Alhambra and Generalife. The third is the Albaicin District, which you can read about in a previous blog.

Granada’s Alhambra is a fort and several palaces.

Like the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the Alhambra is an area with several sites within.

The Alcazaba – is the oldest residential part of the Alhambra. It becomes part of the defense when they finish the palaces.

Nasrid Palaces – are the original residences of the Moorish Emirs.

The Towers – are part of the complex but separate from the palaces.

Generalife – is a residential summer palace for escaping the official working palace.

Charles V Palace – is a lavish palace for the Christian monarchs, which they never finish.

The Alcazaba

Sitting on the western point of the hill is the oldest part of the Alhambra. The current structures date from circa 1250 A.D.

There are numerous towers, Torre de la Vela (watch), Torre del Homenaje (keep), Torre Quebrada (broken), to name a few. That is why the fortress remains part of the defenses when building new palaces further up the hill.

Arms Square

Plaza de Armas is the original entrance to the Alcazaba. Here are the remains of storerooms, a cistern, bath, Arab houses, and a dungeon.

Ismail I of Granada, the fifth Nasrid ruler, build a new palace during his rule circa 1300. Less than 50 years later, Yusuf I of Granada tears 90% of it down to build a larger palace. Over the years, other Emirs add additional palaces, halls, and gardens.

Decorations.

Muslim art does not allow the use of living figures with eyes. Plants are O.K. but, humans, animals, and even Mohammad are not.

Classical calligraphy inscriptions include “Only God is Victor” and poems by different court poets.

Mocarabe (Muqarnas) – is a form of ornamental vaulting some people call “honeycomb vaulting.” It hangs from the undersides of domes, cornices, vaults, or arches.

Scallops will also come into play.

Think of the decoration as decorating needlepoint. The detail is unbelievable. And as if that’s not enough, many arches in the middle of rooms are merely decorative, requiring more decoration.

Cuarto o Palacio de Comares (Comares Palace).

The first of the Nasrid palaces, very little of the original remains as later kings would tear down and replace. Much of the section dates from the early 1300s, with numerous refurbishments.

The Mexuar.

The only original part of the first palace remaining, numerous restorations leave nothing of the original design. The king possibly used the room for meetings with his council.

Cuarto Dorado (The Gilded Room.)

The room and adjoining patio connect the first palace to the Comares Palace. The name refers to the ceiling’s Mudejar style of decoration.

Patio de los Arrayanes (Court of the Myrtles.)

This courtyard sits between the Torre de Comares, the Patio of the Lions, and the Baths.

Salon de los Embajadore (Hall of the Ambassadors)

This is the most decorated hall of the palace as it is the throne room. This room was to display the wealth and power of the Emir during official receptions. During the Catholic Monarchs period, one of their first orders of business was to fund Christopher Columbus (1492.)

The floor’s condition is not too bad after 700+ years.

Palacio de los Leones (Palace of the Lions)

The gift of Mohammed V circa 1360, it is his legacy to the Alhambra. It becomes the private chambers of the royal family. Architects praise it for its use of light, water, colors, and exquisite decoration. It is a palace for all the senses.

Sala de los Reyes (Hall of the Kings.)

The painting on the central dome, of most of Granada’s Emirs, gives the room its name. However, the painting has more Christian than Arabic features.

One of my favorite ceilings in the palace.

Sala de Dos Hermanas (Hall of the Two Sisters.)

The name refers to the two twin marble flagstones on the floor. This hall was part of the sultana’s (favorite wife) residence for her and her family. I think the dome is the must-see of the room.

Sala de los Abencerrajes (Hall of the Abencerrajes.)

Adjacent to the Two Sisters is this hall where supposedly Abencerrajes knights lost their heads. However, accounts are blurry. Check out the detail on the arches.

Mirador de Daraxa.

Mirador means the overlook. This “sun porch” is in excellent shape, minus the floor. Look up. For a small room, I spend a lot of time here.

Patio de los Leones (Patio of the Lion)

Expect lots of people taking selfies. Twelve lions support a large basin of water on their backs while spitting water into the fountain below.

The Towers.

For those missing their step class, you can spend the better part of a few hours visiting the towers, several you can climb (no elevators.)

There are numerous towers, and no two are identical.

Torre de los Picos (Tower of the Points)

This 13th- century tower has pointy merlons (caps) giving it its name. It was guarding the path to the Generalife Palace.

The pointy defenses give the tower its name.

Torre de la Cautiva (Tower of the Captive.)

The next tower also went by the name Tower of the Woman Thief and Tower of the Sultana circa 1550. Legend says circa 1460, the Christian Lady Isabel de Solís becomes the king’s concubine and converts to Islam. He keeps her in this tower.

Torre de la Infantas (Tower of the Princesses.)

In the 1500s, the tower’s name was Ruiz y Quintarnaya’s Tower. Circa 1830, Washington Irving writes Tales of the Alhambra, which includes a story of three princesses. And the tower has a new name.

The section below is the Walkway of the Princesses.

There are more towers and four interesting gates worth seeing as well. Check out the Puerta de la Justicia, Puerta de las Granadas, Puerta del Vino, and Puerta de las Armas.

Are you starting to realize the Alhambra needs a full day to scratch the surface?

Generalife (Garden of the Architect.)

The home of an architect, Muhammed II, “acquires” the land circa 1290 to create a summer palace and country estate for himself.

It was a personal escape with excessive decoration and fewer water features than today.

Jardines del Generalife

The hanging (terraced) gardens are lovely to walk through. Depending on the time of day, they can also supply delightful shade from the Spanish sun.

Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel or Water-Garden)

Today, there is a long pool with flowerbeds, fountains, and colonnades surrounding it. These gardens are probably a 1930s attempt to present the style of the medieval Persian garden.

Photos from the 1800s do not show any of this. But it is still worth a visit.

Ciprés de la Sultana (Cypress of the Sultana)

This may be my favorite area as the mobs have never been here when I am. Also, part of the 1930s update, it just feels a little more authentic to me.

Charles V Palace

By 1527, Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor, feels The Alhambra is too small and not grand enough for his lifestyle.

Charles constructs his palace smack dab in the middle of the Alhambra.

He commissions a lavish Renaissance palace between the Alcazaba and the Comares Palace. That way, he can show off the Alhambra.

By 1530, when he adds King of Italy to his resume, he loses interest in the project. They never finish the palace, and it will not receive its first roof until 1957.

Today, the palace is home to the Museum of the Alhambra on the ground floor. Besides items from the Alhambra, it has an incredible collection of Nasrid Art.

There is no doubt the plans were for a showy palace.

The upper floor of the palace is the Granada Museum of Fine Arts. It includes a nice section to the hometown painter and sculptor, Alonso Cano.

The Alhambra Summary.

Now, do you believe me when I say you need a full day to see the Alhambra?

I recommend comfortable shoes and a pre-purchased ticket.

Stay to see a sunset and the Alhambra lit at night.

You could easily spend another full day, or two, exploring the rest of Granada.

The area is truly a treasure of the Sierra Nevada.