Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD-SEE BARCELONA.
NEIGHBORHOODS
So many people love it, but so few explore Barcelona. They see it for a day off a cruise ship. Or (tragically), from a taxi or bus window en-route to the airport.
There’s the old section, the Gothic Quarter and Gaudi, but even these they only scratch.
Ancient History.
Who were the first people to live in present-day Barcelona is unclear. Ruins of an early settlement dating to circa 5000 BC. are nearby.
Some people believe that the city is the work of mythological Hercules.
Another accounting is the conquering of the settlement by Hamilcar Barca, father of Hannibal, and a Carthaginian general. But that story indicates there was already a settlement here. Like most European countries along the Mediterranean coast, the Pheonecians from Greece were probably some of the first.
Roman Barcelona.
By 15 B.C., we know the Romans have a military camp sitting on the Mons Taber. This little hill is near today’s city hall.
It was a backwater to nearby Tarraco (today’s Tarragona). But over time, it grew in wealth and size due to its large harbor. Excavating, they have found coins from the Roman town in Barcelona from the first century A.D.
The typical Roman grid plan is still visible today, looking at the layout of the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter).
Not So Ancient
Circa 5th-century A.D., along come the Visigoths, Germanic people from the north. They will hold onto the area for approximately 300 years.
Thunder From Down Under
In the early 700s A.D., the Muslim Arabs begin streaming into Spain from Northern Africa. They waste little time pushing the Visigoths out of southern Spain. Their hold will last less than 100 years.
Charle’s Kid
Circa 800 A.D., Louis the Pious, King of the Franks, marches his troops into southern Gaul. He claims it for himself and his father, Charlemagne, the Holy Roman Emperor.
Louis makes Barcelona the seat of the Carolingian buffer zone against the Arabs still in the southwest. He appoints Counts of Barcelona to oversee it as he continues to conquer other areas.
The Count of Barcelona becomes increasingly independent and expands the territory to include all of Catalonia.
The Moors Return.
Things are going well until July 985, when the Arabs, under Almanzor, sack Barcelona. They kill or enslave all of the population of the city. Almanzor will continue to conquer the kingdoms of southern Spain until he dies seventeen years later.
Upon his death, his son takes control but dies six years later. A power grab begins, and the Arab forces start to implode.
Simultaneously, the many Christian kingdoms north and south of the Arabs begin to ban together. By 1137, through marriage, the County of Barcelona merges with Aragon.
Later, this area will become the Crown of Aragon. At its peak, it will rule the western Mediterranean Sea. Its landholdings will reach as far east as Athens by the 1200s.
Unfortunately, as the Crowns of Aragon and Castile were growing, Barcelona was becoming less critical.
Ferdinand and Isabella – 1469
Ferdinand II of Aragon marries Isabella I of Castile, uniting the two royal lines. They make Madrid the center of their political power.
By 1492, Columbus is sailing his ocean blue. The Mediterranian trading takes a back seat to the colonies. Barcelona becomes an afterthought.
We’re Not Going to Take it.
Barcelona does not take its ejection from the cool-kids table well. By 1640, it is the center of the Catalan separatist movement.
They provide large numbers of soldiers to protect Spain from the French during the Franco-Spanish War.
The outcome being the powers in Madrid give everything Catalonia has east of the Pyrenees to France. This action leads to the first Catalan Revolt beginning in 1640 against the Kingdom.
Beginning in 1650, one of the worst bouts of Bubonic plague breaks out along the Mediterranian. Barcelona loses perhaps 50% of its population.
In 1652, the forces of King Philip IV took back Barcelona. Although Catalonia loses, they do gain better treatment from the crown.
We Are Family
The Guy with the Napoleon Complex
In 1803, Napoleon began his conquest of Europe. By 1807, he is in Spain. The Peninsular War between Napoleon’s empire and Bourbon Spain affects all of Spain. The French quickly inhabit the towns of Spain. The Spanish fight back, but are no match.
When troops from Britain, Spain, and Portugal begin arriving through Spanish ports, the tide starts to turn. However, this leads to many battles in these towns, including Barcelona.
It will not be until 1814 that the French finally retreat. Spain goes through a slow period of rebuilding while the nobles fight over control. The industrial age arrives in Spain.
Spanish Civil War
By 1936, two distinct camps are fighting for control of Spain. On one side are the Republicans, loyal to the currently-elected, left-leaning Second Spanish Republic. They go to war.
On the other side are the Nationalists, who wish to rule under Falangism. Like Socialism, it believes in the need for total authority, hierarchy, and order over society. One of their leaders is General Francisco Franco, who moves up quickly through the ranks.
By 1939, the Nationalists win the war. They will rule Spain until Franco’s death in November 1975. Barcelona and Catalonia were backing the Republicans. Their punishment is Catalan language, traditions, and autonomous institutions become illegal.
Due to its industrial strength, Barcelona continues to grow. Immigrants from the countryside and smaller towns make their way to the city in hopes of a better life.
Barcelona Today.
Franco’s death in 1975 brings on a period of democratization throughout Spain. Barcelona leads the movement. No doubt due to their nearly forty years of punishment for supporting the Republican government.
In the city, there are peaceful demonstrations of over a million people for the restoration of Catalan autonomy. The Spanish government agrees.
Spain becomes part of the European community by 1986. This inclusion benefits Spain and Barcelona.
Barcelona is the host of the 1992 Summer Olympics. This event benefits Barcelona and Spain.
Today, Barcelona is one of the ten largest cities in Europe and famous the world over.
What is in Barcelona for me?
See & Hear.
Watch a sunset from Tibidabo hill, featuring an observation tower, amusement park, and a beautiful Catholic church along its rim.
Around every corner in the Gothic Quarter is more impressive architecture. Sit in one of the squares and watch and listen to the world passing.
Taste & Smell.
Stroll the La Barceloneta waterfront smelling the salt air. Or find the bakeries and cheese shops hidden in the Gothic Quarter. Can you sense almonds roasting?
Taste a churro, hot out of the oil, and dipped in a chocolate pudding-like mixture.
Feel.
The Greek remains are no longer visible, and the Roman ones are underfoot. You can feel the thousands of years of history as you wander the streets of this fascinating city.
While sipping a glass of local wine on a terrace in Spain, you watch people pass. You remember the Gaudi world you have been experiencing earlier. A mixture of curves, and shapes, and glass.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Barcelona
Due to the recycling of building materials, there is nothing to see from the ancient Greeks.
Barcelona does hold on to a few signs of Barcino, the Roman town founded by Emperor Augustus circa 15 B.C.
If you stand at 19 Carrer de la Palla in the old section, look above you. Continue east to Plaça Nova, the plaza in front of the cathedral. Far from Gothic are three square towers in the building on your right.
The bases are probably Roman, although extensions above may be from later. The single arch coming out of the right tower is definitely from a Roman aqueduct.
Temple of Augustus – was the centerpiece of Barcelona’s Roman forum. From the back of the cathedral, walk east on Carrer del Paradís until it turns right. On the left is number 10, with a sign over the arch for the temple. Walkthrough the span and look up to your right.
The columns, almost 30 feet tall, are the four remaining from the 1st-century B.C. temple.
Return to the small plaza behind the cathedral and turn right. Walk to the next square, Plaça del Rei, which takes about 90 seconds. Turn left.
More Than a Few Pieces.
Museum of the History of Barcelona (MUHBA)- sits on Placa del Rei. In addition to its more than 35,000 items in the museum, it also helps oversee the ancient sites. Many of these are Roman, including the Temple of Augustus and the Placa del Rei site.
The square does not look Roman. That’s because the remains of Roman Barcino lie underneath. You access them from the museum. Below are ruins from the 1st century B.C. to 13th-century Barcelona. The museum closes on Mondays.
Catedral de Barcelona – we can include in the Roman section as it also contains part of the old Roman walls. The original church, Basilica La Seu, uses part of the walls. It operates until Almanzor burns the city in the first century A.D.
A Romanesque cathedral, incorporating some of the original structure, goes up in 1058.
The current Gothic church, dating from 1298, contains small portions of all the previous churches. Its completion takes over 150 years.
Gaudi’s Barcelona
Indeed no conversation about Barcelona can avoid Antoni Gaudi, the king of Catalan Modernism.
Seven of the nine UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Barcelona are his work.
And guides will tell you he gave us the word gaudy. The problem with that is it is a British term from circa 1500. Several hundred years before Antoni would pick up a crayon, let alone an architect scale.
That’s not to say that many thought Gaudi’s work to be vulgar at the time. It was not until years after his death before his brilliance catches on.
- Parque Guell – is an upscale housing development in a park. Construction begins in 1900 and ends 14 years later as a failure. In 1923 it became a park.
- Palau Güell – is an 1886 mansion of Gaudi’s design for industrial tycoon Eusebi Güell. The palace is in the El Raval district.
- Casa Batllo or Casa dels Ossos (House of Bones) is the renovation of a house the Batllo family buys for its location. They ask Gaudi to turn it into a home different from everyone else’s.
- La Pedrera or Casa Mila is an apartment building along Passeig de Gracia. The Mila family commission it after Gaudi’s success with their residence.
- Casa Vicens is a family summer home for tile and brick manufacturer Manuel Montaner. It is Gaudi’s first private house project.
- Crypt of Church of Colònia Güell – is the crypt to an unfinished church. It was a test for his new load-bearing system.
AND the Unfinished Masterpiece.
- Basílica I Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família – is the final masterpiece of Gaudi’s work. Work began in 1882. He knows he will not see the final product.
They hope to finish the basilica’s structure by 2026, 100 years after Gaudí’s death. Additional decorative elements will take another four to six years.
- Escoles de Gaudí – is the school Gaudi designs for the children of the workers. It’s on the grounds of the basilica, and if you do not look, you will walk right by it. It’s often open, and your church ticket includes admission to the school building.
There are ten+ additional Gaudi sites not on the list that are also unique and worth seeing.
Other UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
There are two other UNESCO sites in Barcelona. They also center around an architect, Lluís Domènech I Montaner.
- Palau de la Música Catalana – dates from 1908. Montaner is a master at Catalan Modernism but will always remain in the shadow of Gaudi. They still use the palace for music and culture events. It is in the Gothic Quarter.
- Hospital de la Santa Creu I Sant Pau – is another masterpiece by Montaner. Opening in 1930, it remains in service until 2009, upon the opening of a new hospital next door. Today it serves as a medical museum and cultural center. It is in the El Guinardó neighborhood, a five-minute drive from La Sagrada Familia.
A Beautiful Day in the Neighborhoods!
Let’s break the rest of the city into neighborhoods.
Sants-Montjuïc.
The area sits on a hill between the airport and cruise port, but few Americans go to the mount. It is an area complete with museums, a castle, and fantastic city views.
- Montjuïc Castle – is a military fortress dating back to 1640 with great views.
- Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya– is in a building from the International Exhibition in 1929. The museum contains art from numerous schools including Catalonian, Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Modern.
- Poble Espanyol (Spanish Village) – is an open-air museum also from the 1929 Exhibition. The site features replicas of 117 buildings from all over Spain, in full size. There are also restaurants, cafés, and small shops.
- La Fundació Miró – dates from 1968 and is a gathering point for the contemporary art movement. On display is an extensive collection of hometown kid Jean Miro’s works as well as other contemporary artists too.
- Olympic and Sports Museum – focuses on all disciplines and methods of Olympic sport through interactive displays that bring the games to life.
- Olympic Ring – Originally built for the 1992 Olympics. The complex contains the Olympic stadium, a smaller stadium, the Palau Sant Jordi, and the pools for the swimming events.
Going Down.
- Plaça de Les Cascades – is a series of steps and plazas cascading down from the National Art Museum. There are water features in the middle. At the bottom is what was one of the primary exhibit areas for the exposition. Today the convention center takes up much of the space.
- Font Màgica de Montjuïc – is the most famous fountain on the cascade. Pretty by day, its light show at night is beautiful.
- Archaeology Museum of Catalonia – is a ten-minute walk from the cascade at the bottom of the hill. For guests wishing to know more about Barcelona’s history, including the ancient Greeks and Romans, this is for you.
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya at the top of the Cascade.
Port Vell (Old Harbor)
This neighborhood dates back to the 18th-century and includes much of the waterfront. At one end, the old port area has beautiful architecture and the yacht marina.
Maritime Museum of Barcelona – has everything you would expect in a maritime museum, models, photos, instruments, figureheads, and maps. They have all these and more. For sea lovers, this is a to-do. Look for a part of the city wall in the building’s construction.
Old Customs House – sits on the oval surrounding Christopher’s statue and between the Maritime Museum and the port. Today it is an administration building. But do admire the exterior architecture and decoration.
Edifici de l’Autoritat Portuària de Barcelona (Port Authority) – is of the same style as the customs building. It has a tourism office on the ground floor.
La Barceloneta
This newer section of waterfront dates from the 18th century. The triangular spit of land has the old harbor on one side and sandy beaches on the other.
There are lovely beaches, several aquatic clubs, boatyards for luxury yachts, and a luxury hotel.
Transbordador Aeri del Port (Port Cable Car) – This is the San Sebastián tower for the aerial tram that runs to Montjuic (Miramar) mountain. There is a middle station near the world trade center, but it is not open to the public. The trip takes approximately 8-minutes each way. The tower has an elevator.
There is not much for explorers in the southwest end of the neighborhood.
Port Olympic
This area, northeast of La Barceloneta, is a creation for the 1992 Olympics. They regenerate an industrial area into hotels and even the Olympic Village for the athletes.
They bring in sand and create beaches. Today, the neighborhood is home to hotels, a casino, and too many cafes and clubs.
Las Ramblas (La Rambla)
This street is not a neighborhood, although many call it that. It is a pedestrian mall, for tourists and pickpockets. This site is one of those places I jump up and down about in my port talks. Be extra vigilant! Within an hour after arrival, the first purse or wallet-free guests return.
Is Las Rambla worth seeing?
YES! It begins at the Christopher Columbus Monument at Port Vell (old harbor) where all the cruise ships purge their guests. It stretches for 3/4 of a mile to the Plaça de Catalunya in the center of modern-day Barcelona.
The tree-lined street offers cafes, shops, sidewalk flower stands, and authentic Spanish items from Taiwan. And street performers every 3 feet. It is a large barrel of fish for pickpockets.
So if it’s not a neighborhood, what is it?
It separates the Gothic Quarter (east) from the historic El Raval neighborhood on the west.
El Raval.
This historic neighborhood was once best known for nightlife, prostitution, and crime. It was the closest area to the port and became a dumping ground for Immigrants. Even today, with living conditions substantially improved, it has a very diverse immigrant community. It is a minor sightseeing destination but is home to a few must-sees.
- Palau Güell – See Gaudi UNESCO above. Less than two blocks off La Rambla.
- Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria (Boqueria Market) – The jewel of the El Raval neighborhood is also Barcelona’s first local market. The opening day was in 1840. It’s an excellent place for a progressive meal as you can buy and eat while you walk. There are also a few little counters you can sit at IF you can get a seat.
Crazy from the time it opens (8 AM Mon-Sat), It reaches insane by 10 AM, and that usually lasts until around 3:00 PM. It calms a little from then until closing at 8:30 PM. The market closes on Sunday. Hard to miss as you can see it from Las Rambla.
Gothic Quarter (Barrio Gòtico).
The entire Gothic Quarter is worth seeing, but here are some highlights.
Las Ramblas Area.
- Plaça Reial (Royal Plaza) – is a block off Las Rambles, and is not that royal. A statue of the current king at that time, Ferdinand VII, was going in the middle. Due to his death in 1933, and the political upheaval that follows, there is no time for statues.
Today the lovely fountain of the Three Graces centers the plaça. The buildings surrounding the square were homes of the elite — some of them the size of small palaces, but no royalty. Perhaps the noblest thing about the plaça is the Royal Palms.
It also has points of interest by Gaudi. One of his very first commissions was for the street lamps in this square. A stop in this picturesque plaça will confirm you are in Spain.
Plaça Sant Jaume Area.
- Plaça Sant Jaume – was the central point of the Roman city of Barcino. The current day Plaça sits where the Temple of Augustus sat in the middle of the Roman forum. A two-minute walk to #10 Carrer del Paradís will reward you with four of the temple’s columns. (THANK YOU to the forward-thinking building supervisor ).
The Palau de la Generalitat building makes up most of the north side of this Plaça. It is a great meeting place and location to get your bearings. There is also a tourist office for information on the plaça.
- El Call, Old Jewish Quarter – Although not like it used to be (thank goodness), you can still get a feel for the Jewish Quarter. On Carrer de Marlet (street of the market), you can visit the Sinagoga Mayor de Barcelona, the oldest synagogue in Spain. It is one of only five medieval temples still in existence. The two-room building, now a museum, is just over 600 sq ft. They are not sure when construction begins. They know of renovations in the 1200s. These repairs may not have been the first. On Carrer dels Banys (Street of the baths), they discover a 12th-century mikvah (Jewish ritual bath) during renovations of a home-goods store.
Cathedral Area.
- Ponte del Bisbe – is a pedestrian bridge linking the Palau de la Generalitat to the Canon’s House over Carrer (street) del Bisbe (of the Bishop). This street is between Plaça Sant Jaume and the cathedral. Everyone who goes to Barcelona seems to go home with a picture of this ancient bridge. The catch? It only dates to 1928. It’s the newest construction in this area. But it’s pretty.
- The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia – is a five-minute walk from Plaça Sant Jaume. The building is ornate. If you feel like it, climb to the roof (3 euro). From the top, there are up-close views of the spire and across the Gothic Quarter. They require donations to visit the main church between 12:45 – 3:15 PM daily. The cathedral is free to see before and after this time. As with ALL religious sites and memorials, you should cover your shoulders and knees.
- Els Quatre Gats – A five-minute walk from the cathedral is this bar/cafe. It is where Picasso had one of his first showings (1899). It sat empty for several decades, before reopening in 1989 for tourists. I have never seen locals here except the staff. Go for the photo, not the Tapas.
- Passeig del Born is at the east end of the Gothic Quarter and is today, a leisurely street with cafes and shade trees. It began as the site of the medieval jousting (born) field. There is still a medieval charm in some of the architecture. Unfortunately, during the Spanish Inquisition (1478 – 1834), it was also the site of several autos-de-fe. The nearby Jewish Quarter being a prime target for victims.
Plaça de Catalunya area.
To many, the placa is the center of Barcelona. Sitting at the top of Las Ramblas, it has the nearby University district to the west.
The fashionable Passeig De Gracia is within walking distance to the north.
L’Eixample.
Passeig de la Gracia (Street of the Greeks) is a broad boulevard and home to upscale hotels and shopping. There are several should-see sites in this area.
In addition to the Gaudi properties we already know about, others are unique.
- Illa de la Discòrdia (Block of Discord) – Is the block containing the Casa Batllo (Bonehouse.) The neighborhood holds a collection of 1900 homes by different architects.
- #43 Casa Batllo. Remodeled by Gaudi in 1900
- #41 Casa Amatller was a design by Josep Puig I Cadafalch. (He is responsible for the hotel Casa Fuster at #132.) Dating from 1900, it is the home of chocolatier Antoni Amatller.
- #39 Casa Bonet is a building from 1887. Circa 1915, the Bonets hire architect Marcel·lí Coquillat to redo the facade to keep up with the neighbors. (Not part of the Discòrdia).
- #37 Casa Mulleras is a building from 1886. The current facade was under the direction of Enric Sagnier in 1906. (He also did the Catholic church on Tibidabo and the Customs House).
- #35 Casa Lleó Morera dates from 1864. The remodeling takes place in 1904 by Lluís Domènech I Montaner. (of hospital and Music palace fame).
Barcelona Summary
I usually spend two nights, giving me approximately two full days to explore. I try to do one neighborhood at a time, and this still never seems like enough time.
Then there is the Catalonian cuisine to sample. And what about the local wine?
Then there are many day trips. The wine country (and sparkling cava). Roman Tarragona or the beach town of Sitges to the south. The Christian pilgrimage site of Montserrat is an hour’s drive to the northwest. Or delve into Salvadore Dali at his Dalí Theatre and Museum in Figueres. On the way, see charming Girona.
After reading this, if I ask you, “Where are you going?” I hope the answer is Barcelona.