THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
A Grecian Waterfall, Trickle Trickle Trickle.
There are mountains in northern Greece and the Peloponesse, so Greece probably has waterfalls. But I am talking about waterfalls on a Greek island!
All Greek islands are dry and rocky, you say. Οχι (O-hee, No, in Greek,) They are not. Several islands have lush hillsides and even support livestock. Do you want to visit one of these islands? Ναί (neh, yes in Greek.)
Let’s head to the northernmost of the Cycladic Islands, which is almost due east of Athens. Andros. It is the second largest of the Cyclades and the only one with (small) waterfalls.
There is no airport on the island, so you reach it by ferry from the port of Rafina, near Athens. You can also connect to it by boat from several of the nearby islands, including Siros, Tinos, and Mykonos. That alone is a reason to explore Andros.
Historical Andros.
Excavations have found paintings dating to around 4500 B.C. Due to its strategic location, it has had inhabitants ever since.
So you go to Andros for the historical sites? Well, not exactly. Although they do have a few, they are, for the most part, untouched and not easily accessible. You can find some signs on the island in English. However, very few of the historic sites are for English speaking/reading explorers. Not only at the sites themselves but also the road signs to reach them.
So why explore Andros? It does not sound like a destination for non-Greek tourists.
But you are a traveler. Off the tourist track, into adventure, destination immersion you want to go. That’s why you want to explore Andros.
The natural beauty of the island is intriguing. And you get a Greek experience because international tourists are not invading. Do not get me wrong, June through August, the beaches are full, but with Greeks.
By Mediterranean standards, there are some lovely beaches.
There are several small museums of interest, and the island is an excellent destination for Greek food lovers.
Explore Andros.
Andros is an island for walkers and hikers. There are over 180 miles of trails that range from a stroll to a challenge. There are short walks of less than 3 miles. And there is the island trek that is over 60 miles in length.
For June through August, there are hikes through shaded sections. Some include streams to splash in or that end at a beach. It is a great way to see the island from another perspective.
Is There Anything to See?
The Monastery of Panachrantos is a fortress-like monastery built in the 960s (not a typo) during the Byzantine occupation. Once a thriving silk production center and school of philosophy, today it is home to three monks.
You can arrive from above on the predominantly paved but death-defying curvy road. Or from below up the even more treacherous, gravel lane. Either way, your reward is incredible views.
Explore the Southeast
Most locals refer to it as Hora, but it has several aliases, (Chora, Andros Town). This pedestrian-only town sits on a peninsula between two public beaches. Many of the mansions are/were the homes of sea captains and ship owners. Today, several have become boutique hotels or small museums.
The Venetian Castle of Cato Kastro (Lower Castle) dates from 1207 A.D. It was in use defending against invaders for over 300 years until the Ottoman conquest around 1566. They use it for almost another 400 years until the Germans use it for bombing practice circa 1943.
The small Church Panagia Thalassini (Virgin of the Sea) – protects the seafarers. The church is on a rock outcropping in the harbor. A chapel to either the virgin or Agios Nikolaos, (Patron Saint of sailors) is present in most Greek harbors.
Museums.
The Maritime Museum of Hora is at the far end of the town in one of the neo-classical mansions. There is a beautiful collection of nautical instruments, documents, and other items from Andros’s long maritime history.
The Museum of Contemporary Art is a beautiful surprise to fans of modern art. Today, besides featuring some of Greece’s most distinguished artists, you can also find works by Picasso, Matisse, and others.
Explore Andros’s Other Museums.
There are historical sites on the island. Most require a hike, have had a little restoration, and need a broad imagination.
Most people do not want to explore Andros’s sites but do better in visiting museums. Understand, the museums on the island are not huge. However, many of them are very interesting. Depending on your interest, there is a museum for several periods of the island’s history.
Palaeopolis is on the west coast, south of Batsi. It is the ancient capital of Andros (Classical period 8 B.C. – 5 B.C.) and later a port during Roman times. The few ruins require a vivid imagination.
The Archaeological Museum of Paleopolis Is for those guests not wishing to go off-path. It is adjacent to the turn off for the archeological site. This small museum packs a lot in when you consider its size and free admission.
There are three collections, sculptures, inscriptions, and everything else. Great news, the labels are in Greek AND English.
Exploring Andros Structures
The tallest structure from the B.C. period would be the Tower of Agios Petros above the village of Kipri. Dating probably from the Hellenistic Period (4th-3rd century B.C.) you can still climb part of the way up.
Exploring Villages.
Apikia Village – This hillside village, near Hora, is a convenient starting point for hikes to Sariza spring, Pythara ravine, and Gialia Beach. Watch out for waterfalls.
Stenies Village is a small hillside village with traditional Cycladic architecture. Buildings of note include the three-story tower of Bisti-Mouvela, from the 17th century, and Agios Georgios church, with a 1737 fresco.
Explore Andros Towns.
Batsi – used to be a fishing village. Today, it is the major resort area of the island. Little houses mix with small hotels circling the round bay. There is still a small fishing harbor at its south end and a sandy beach towards the middle. I use it as a base as there are several levels of accommodations.
Gavrio – is the gateway to the island as it has the ferry dock to and from the island. Here, the hawkers meet every ferry selling accommodations, vehicle rentals, and excursions. It attracts a lot of the backpacking crowd on a budget.
Then at sundown, something happens. Things “calm down.” It doesn’t turn into the sleepy fishing village; it was just 20+ years ago. However, it takes on the spirit of its past. You can still find excellent little tavernas, full of locals, enjoying ouzo, and a sunset. Later, enjoy an incredible seafood dinner caught locally that day.
Scenic Drives.
Hora (Andros Town) to Ormos to the south passes through the villages of Kohilou, Kochilos, and Episkopio. Traditional villages with stone houses will show you the real Greek experience. You can also reach the Monastery of Panachrantos by paved road from above, which I highly suggest.
Ormos to Hora – takes a more inland route. Going clockwise, it takes you to the hillside villages of Aidonia, Korthio, Amonaklios, and Piso Maria. See if you feel like you are on an island.
As you drive back towards Hora, make a detour to the Cyclades Olive Museum near Pitrofos. Here, you can see a real olive mill and how they work. This small museum is educational and indeed a view into Greek life.
Read more on how to explore Andros.
Beaches.
With around 100 beaches, there is something for everyone.
The “party” beaches are Aghios Petros, Psili (or Chrissi) Ammos and Kypri Bay. These are the popular ones with the young crowd.
Others have varying amounts of chairs, services, and facilities.
Living in Florida, I do not fly halfway around the world to go to the beach. On Andros, I find the public beaches in Ormos, Hora, and Batsi are perfect for my 1-2 hours. There are restrooms and tavernas with cold drinks nearby. Agios Petros (St Peters) between Batsi and Gavrio is also easy to access.
Explore Andros Cuisine
Thanks to a constant source of water, Andros has several “local” items besides spices. The local nuts and citrus also add a taste Andros does not share with other islands. Due to ample mineral water, they raise livestock (cows and goats) on the island. This source of milk leads to cheese.
Taste Andros Cheese
Armexia is a soft white cheese similar to feta cheese. Analati is a hard cheese with no salt, which they usually make with goat’s milk. They cover Kopanisti cheese with a cloth soaked in vinegar. This cheese for spreading has a spicy taste.
Volakia (Volaki) is a cow’s milk cheese. The texture is similar to mozzarella and is suitable for salads. Try it on a Horiatiki (Greek in America) salad.
A signature dish of the island is a potato omelet. Froutalia starts with potato slices and island sausage they saute until tender. To this, they add an egg and local cheese mixture (and spices including mint.) It cooks on both sides until you have an Androit omelet.
Andros honey is also a primary ingredient in several sweets. The Thyme pollen gives it a lovely scent, and it is velvety on the tongue.
As it is for local consumption, most jars of honey do not have preservatives or additives. Try it.
Read more on Andros Cuisine.
So how does exploring Andros sound to you? It’s a slower pace, fewer tourists and it features Greek food and sunsets.
Could you, would you getaway on a Greek island?
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What is most appealing to you about Andros?”
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