THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Does the Peloponnese sound familiar? Did it have something to do with the Odyssey?
The Peloponnese is a landmass to the southwest of Athens and much of the Greek mainland.
But it did not start this way. Before 1893 it was part of the mainland. In that year, they finish a canal, cutting the peninsula off from the mainland. The channel was not for protection or out of spite. It was a shortcut, connecting the Ionian Sea (Gulf of Corinth) with the Aegean Sea (Saronic Gulf).
The canal is just under four miles long and 70 feet wide. So why did so many attempts fail dating back to the 7th century B.C.? The land they need to dig through is 300 feet above sea level. The Corinth Canal is a dramatic entrance to the Peloponnese.
The Peloponnese and Corinth
The town was there long before the canal. Historic relics date occupants back to circa 3000 B.C.,
Historical references begin circa 8th century B.C., making it a city-state of antiquity. Due to the short distance by foot between the gulfs, a trade path leads to a trading center. Corinth was an ally of Sparta in the Persian and later Peloponnesian War. Circa 146 B.C., the Romans destroy the city on their sweep east. They will rebuild it as a Roman City.
We know that the citizens were a little naughty as the Apostle Paul was writing them letters. When the Corinthians do not fall into line, Paul visits them during his time in Greece.
The Greeks and their visitors over the centuries continue to build upon Ancient Corinth until 1858. A massive earthquake creates so much destruction they begin a new town two miles north on the gulf.
Mycenae
Just over thirty minutes south, passing by the Nemea wine region is the Archaeological Site of Mycenae. The home of the real Mycenaean people. Also mythical Agamemnon and his not so lovely wife, Clytemnestra. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it has cyclopean walls dating back to before 1000 B.C. Nearby is a beehive burial mound from circa 1250 B.C. for a Mycenaean-era ruler.
Tiryns
Twenty minutes further south is the second site of the UNESCO Archaeological Sites of Mycenae and Tiryns. Tiryns dates to the end of the 13th century B.C.
Sitting on a low hill between Mycenae and the Argolic Gulf, it requires larger walls. More than 800 yards of the wall surrounds the citadel some up to 26 feet thick and 46 feet high. From the top of the site, there are views of the gulf less than two miles away.
Epidaurus.
Thirty minutes to the east is the Sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidaurus, another UNESCO site. It is the home to ancient Greek medicine since the 6th century B.C. Covering a large area, the principal monuments include the temple of Asklepios, the Tholos and the Theatre. These structures date from the 4th century B.C. The theater is one of the purest masterpieces of Greek architecture. Performances still take place June – August, and with the near-perfect acoustics, there’s not a bad seat.
Nafplio
Sitting beside and above the Argolic Gulf is this charming Peloponnese port town. Before the middle ages, it was a port town for nearby Argos.
With the increasing invasions during the Byzantine times, Nafplio’s natural hills by the bay makes for secure protection. The Venetians will build the mighty Palamidi Fortress during their second occupation circa 1686.
Today, the charming town is an excellent base for wine or historical outings.
Sparta
Less than two hours south, towards the center of the peninsula is Mighty Sparta. This town is the home to Leonidas. As king, he leads the 300 Spartans against the Persian army in the 480 B.C. Battle of Thermopylae. This place must be overflowing with sites, right?
Outside of some remnants of his tomb, there are no significant sites to see. There is a wall here, and three blocks west a foundation. Several blocks away is a doorway and wall section. There is a semi-circular hill covering a theater. These, by themselves, are not much, but they indicate there is a massive town underneath. I believe e, Sparta is not on a major tourist route and therefore does not receive the T.L.C. it deserves.
Mystra
Three miles to the west of Sparta is the UNESCO World Heritage Site Archaeological Site of Mystras.
This Byzantine city on a hillside began circa 1249. It includes the Byzantines, Turks, and Venetians, as occupants. It is not until 1832, and the end of the Greek War of Independence, that they finally abandon the city.
Monemvasia
Less than two hours away from Mystra, in the southeast corner of the Peloponnese, is Monemvasia. The “Gibraltar of the East” shoots skyward more than 300 feet out of the water. On the top of the plateau are ruins from a medieval fortress and upper town.
At the base is a charming medieval town dating from 583 A.D. Many Greeks are now buying up the houses and converting them into weekend homes. By 1971, they connect the Peloponnese to the island with a causeway. Nearby is a winery producing the P.D.O. Malvasia wine, a Greek Byzantine wine famous since the 1300s.
The South Coast of the Peloponnese.
There may not be any UNESCO sites along the south coast (yet.) That is no reason to skip the southern Peloponnese.
The ghost town of Vathia sits at the bottom of the Mani Peninsula.
The fortified castles at Methoni, Androusa, and the remains of Old Navarino Castle are worth looks by the historian and architect.
King Nestor’s Palace on the southwest coast is one of the best-preserved Mycenaean palaces to date. The castle includes storerooms, baths, light wells, reception rooms, and an intelligent plumbing system. Not bad for 1300 B.C.
You will have to pass through Kalamata (as in olive) and the Messinia wine region of Trifilia. International law says you must sample both.
Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae.
Two hours drive north of Nestor’s Palace is the UNESCO World Heritage Site Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae.
The temple, from circa 420 B.C., contains Doric, Ionic, and the oldest Corinthian column known to date. The temple to Apollo Epicurius, the god of sun and healing, disappears for 1700 years. It is not until the 1800s they rediscover it. Due to its remote location in the Peloponnese, it is in considerably good shape for a 2200-year-old structure.
Olympia
Less than two hours drive north, is another Peloponnese UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Archaeological Site of Olympia, home to the ancient Olympic Games.
Long before the first Olympic Games in 776 B.C., there was a sanctuary here to Zeus. As there were no “countries” in those days, the city-states from around the Greek world would compete. Besides the games, there was a festival, and city-states would make allys or work on peace treaties. Warring city-states would stop fighting for the duration. The Olympia games were every four years. Delphi would also hold games every four years, two years after the Olympia games.
Patras
Another two-hour drive north in the Peloponnese brings you to Patras. Here, the Rion-Antirion Bridge connects to the Greek mainland at the western end of the Gulf of Corinth. Dating from Mycenean times, it has a Roman Odeon, Byzantine Castle, interesting archeological museum, and more. We did some walking in the Apostle Paul’s steps in Corinth. In Patras, we seek the spirit of the Apostle Andrew, brother of Peter.
Circa 60 A.D. during the persecution of Christians by Emperor Nero, they arrest Andrew in Patras. Not feeling worthy of being crucified on a Latin Cross, like Jesus, they put him on an X-shaped cross. This type of cross will later take the name “St Andrews Cross”. Reports are that they bind Andrew, and he lives for two days, preaching until the end.
His remains, like most of the Apostles, disappear. Possibly circa 330 A.D., Constantine moves them to the Church of the Holy Apostles in Byzantium. Maybe they went to St Mary’s Roman Catholic Cathedral in Edinburgh, Scotland. Relics, part of his remains, finally return to Patras circa 1964 from St. Peter’s Basilica, Rome.
The current church began construction in 1908. It is Greek-Orthodox and open to the public.
Nature.
From Patras, it is 90 minutes back to Corinth on the highway along the gulf.
But what about the central part of the Peloponnese?
There are incredible ravines, gorges, stone bridges, hanging monasteries, and more ghost towns.
Cuisine.
We hit upon a few of the Peloponnese wine regions, but what about the food?
The Peloponnese has its spin on Greek cuisine as well. Besides the calamata olives, there are oranges from Nauplion. Eggplant from the east coast, Corinthian raisins, and honey from the southwest, to name a few.
Recipes include local olive oil, lemon, fresh fish, lamb, and the current harvest of vegetables.
Peloponnese Thoughts.
It could easily take a week to do justice to the Peloponnese, and that would still be just a tip.
See, Greece isn’t just about Islands. The Peloponnese can hold its own any day of the week for food, fun, and findings.
Take a look at some of the orange links. See if you don’t need a trip to the Peloponnese.
See more about Nafplio
Or See more about Monemvasia
See more about Olympia
Scroll down to the “Please Leave a Reply” section at the bottom. Please tell me your thoughts on:
“Where would you like to go in the Peloponnese?”
Please help me spread the news by rating, commenting, and sharing this blog below. – THANKS!
“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.
Such rich history! In celebration of what would have been a summer of Olympic Games, I clicked on the Olympia orange tab to learn more about the history and traditions of the games, and to see the ruins that are available for public tours. Thomas, your website is well organized and so easy to follow. There’s lots to learn here! Thanks!
The Peloponnese has a wealth of Greek history and is so different from the romantic Greek Islands. I would like to spend more time in Epidauris and Momenvasia to explore the sites and surrounding areas for a few days to soak in the people and the food. These areas are so majestic and are a special part of Greece.
Corinth was one of my favorite day trips away from Athens. Thank you for taking me back with this reading!