THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Chios is off the main tourist routes. Cruise ships race by on their way to Turkish ports. It is not on the most popular ferry routes. So travelers do not go out of their way to get here. And although the locals are not unfriendly, the truth is, they do not need the tourist dollars like other islands.
But for those who do arrive, expect Greek hospitality.
So why do they not rely on tourists? Because for the last several thousand years, they have been mining white jewels off the local trees.
Chew On This.
Chios is the only island in the Mediterranian that commercially harvests mastic, from the tree of the same name. In ancient Greek, the word “masticheīn” means to grind or gnash your teeth (masticate.) The first use was as a breath freshener (long before toothbrushes) and to soothe the digestive system. You would gnash on the hard resin until it became soft. The bitter taste giving way to a refreshing pine-like flavor.
Later, they would incorporate mastic into foods, especially desserts and soups needing a thickening. In the Middle East, it is a seasoning. Much later, it will make its way into cosmetics, perfumes, soap, body lotion, varnish, and photo development as an adhesive.
And, of course, they figure out how to make it into liqueur (mastika).
In recent years, exports of Chios mastic have added around 30 million dollars to the economy of this island. To this, add the cultivating and exporting of olives, figs, wine, cherries, and mandarins. You begin to see why tourism is not its main industry.
Why Visit Chios?
The Mastic industry will, in my opinion, be responsible for some of the best “should-see” spots on the island. However, many travelers come for mainly one reason, the UNESCO site.
Nea Moni of Chios.
A short drive west of Chios town is this 11th-century monastery that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It shares this status along with the Monasteries of Daphni and Hosios Loukas (in other locations in Greece.) The churches share the same aesthetic characteristics, including a cross-in-square plan and an octagonal altar area with a large dome.
But there is much more to see when you visit Chios. Come, we are walking.
Visit Chios Town.
Many of the sites and museums are within walking distance of the harbor.
Castle of Chios.
Dating from the Byzantines around the 10th Century A.D., the current structure is predominantly from the Genoese period 14-16th century.
Within the walls, you will be able to see Saint George’s Church from circa 10-11th century. The Justinian (Giustiniani) Palace was an administrative center during the Genoese occupation.
Turkish Baths.
Also within the castle walls, at the north end, are these ruins from the 18th century. The site is open to exploring.
Visit Chios museums.
In addition to the Archaeological Museum of Chios. and the Chios Byzantine Museum, there is the Chios Maritime Museum.
For a non-touristy island, they are fascinating. All are within walking distance of the port.
The Rest of Chios Town.
Metropolitan Church of Saint Victors.
Dating from 1838, it replaces a Genoese church burnt down in the 1822 massacre. It is the island’s cathedral but not the largest church.
Anemomiloi (The 3 Mills).
North of the castle, along the coast, are these four windmills, although they refer to them as the three. Dating from the Genoese occupation (circa 1346-1566), they were part of this area’s leather tanneries (tampakika).
Vrondados.
Just north of Chios Town is this maritime village. Its history with the sea may go back to the time of Homer. Possibly Christopher Columbus studied here circa 1490 (Genoese period) before sailing the ocean blue. Two additional windmills overlook its small boat harbor.
Sanctuary of Cybele – Daskalopetra (Homer’s Rock).
Just north of Vrondados is this “stone of the teacher.” Legend says that Homer sat here and narrated his poems to students. Whether Homer was a person or a group of storytellers, the view from here is nice.
Visit Chios Outside of Town.
Virgin Mary Myrtidiotissa Monastery. On the east shore, between the highway and the cliffs, is this monastery. It is a few minutes north of Vrondados. It began as a church circa 1900. Then, as more monks arrived, they had to build a monastery around the church.
Saint Isidore of Sykiada.
This small chapel is 15-minutes north of the monastery. Legend says this is the spot where Agios (saint) Isidoros landed when coming from Egypt. Saint Isidore would establish the Christian faith on the island. The church dates from the 1700s.
Abandoned Village of Anavatos.
The town, a 20-minutes drive north of Nea Moni, sits on a hilltop. The town is almost completely empty since the 1822 massacre. The small church is under constant renovations. Some call the village the “Mystra of the North Aegean.”
The castle of Volissos.
It is easy to see the ruins of this castle as you are approaching the village. However, it still requires hiking the last 100 yards. The walls and towers, rebuilt by the Genoans circa 15th-century, are relatively good for their age. They are on top of walls dating from at least 400 years earlier.
The Monastery of Agia Markella.
Agia Markella is the patron saint of Chios. She lived on Chios in the 14th century. Her father, trying to force her to give up her Christianity, chops off her head. Where he does this, a fresh water spring has been flowing ever since.
Chios Mastic Museum.
In the southwest area of the island is an interesting museum to Chios’ most famous export. This is the only place they cultivate the Mastic tree in the Mediterranian. The museum explains mastiha, the resin from the tree, its history, and its place today. Also, discoverer why UNESCO includes Chios Mastic on its Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list.
Visit Chios Mastic Villages.
My favorite part of the island is the more than 20 villages in the southwest that support the Mastic industry. Let’s look at just a few of the best and see if you agree.
Pyrgi.
The closest village to the museum, Pyrgi, is one of the Mastic Villages and part of the UNESCO Intangible listing. Some call it the “Painted Village” due to the black and white decorations on the houses. You will find these predominantly in the central (pedestrian) part of town. So strap on those walking shoes; it is worth it.
Mesta.
This 12th-century Byzantine-era town is also one of the Mastic Villages. It is on the road between the cave and Vigla. The architecture and narrow streets are part of the defense from pirate raids. The Genoese strengthen the fortifications circa 1400.
The New Church of Taxiarchis.
This church, sitting in the center of Mesta, dates from 1412. They enlarge it circa 1794. A lot of villagers die during the 1822 Chios massacre. Turks kill more than a third of the island’s population at the beginning of the Greek Revolution. The Turks do irreplaceable damage to the older part of the church. Visit the church if for no other reason than to see the walnut Icon screen.
Beaches.
Like many beaches in Greece, many of the Chios beaches are more rock than sand. This varies from small pebbles to rocks large enough to climb on. I recommend shoes or water socks just about everywhere in Greece.
Karfas beach.
South of the airport, this is one of the largest and busiest beaches on the island. It is a full-service beach, with many hotels nearby. Fortunately, it seems to have more sand than pebbles.
Agia Dynami Beach.
Just beyond the cave is this small but lovely beach under the monastery by the same name. Worth a photo stop if you are visiting the cave. There is sand, very little shade, and no services, so bring everything you need.
Mavra Volia (Volcano Beach).
Just outside the village of Emporios on the south shore, this volcanic pebble beach is trendy. Unfortunately, there are no services, and the rocks get blistering hot mid-summer. I like it better for a photo than for sunning or swimming.
Visit Chios’ Neighbor.
Cesme.
Cesme is on a peninsula but is far from being an island. It is on the mainland of Turkey in Asia Minor. Although a different continent from Europe, Cesme is actually closer to Chios than any of the large Greek islands. Approximately seven miles away. In the summer, ferries usually run between Cesme and Chios Town once in the morning and once at night.
As the mainland and islands went back and forth as part of Greece, then Turkey, they share much in common.
Cesme alone is interesting, especially the museum. An hour’s drive from Cesme is Izmir (Smyrna in antiquity) and all it offers, including Ancient Smyrna. Departing from Izmir, Ancient Pergamon to the north, and Ephesus to the south are less than a 90-minutes drive.
Visit Chios Summary.
Just visiting Chios is enough to fill 2-3 days. However, the north end requires almost a day and the south another due to distances between sites.
Chios does not attract too many cruise ships, and rarely those over 600 guests. There is an airport, but many guests arrive by ferry from Pireaus (8 hours) or nearby Samos or Lesvos.
I said there are fewer visitors, but Chios is not completely void of them.
Anywhere in the Mediterranian, expect crowds in July and August. Understand that ferries may not run daily in the winter months.
If you can plan around this, Chios offers a wonderful experience.
Are you ready to visit Chios?
Want to read more about Chios? Click here.
Would you please scroll down to the “Hey Explorer, what are your thoughts?” section below?
Then, please comment or tell me your thoughts on:
“Where would you head first on Chios?
Would you mind helping me spread the news by rating, commenting, and sharing this blog below? – THANKS!
“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.
I can see why the grouping of villages is your favorite part of Chios- such charm, so much vibrant color, and so much to see and experience! I loved those photos!
I would love to hike and explore the abandoned village of Anavatos. It seems like a rare opportunity to explore. And then I would REALLY like to visit the ancient city of Smyrna in nearby Turkey. The architecture looks impressive. But, I would take the recommended 3 days to explore the multitude of villages in Chios and soak in the culture, people and food.