THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
Grand Tours by European Trains
America could learn so much from European trains. In Europe, you can still set watches to train arrivals and departures. In America, there are places I wouldn’t pencil in a day of the week based on train time.
It’s sad to see how low the American trains have sunk. In the early 1900s, you could get just about anywhere in America by train.
But the trains, the grand stations, and the tracks disappear with the American dream of a car in every driveway.
Europe has autos. But they never let their trains run down into such bad shape as other continents. They even went through two World Wars, where railroads and track were principal targets.
Today, they still have an enormous network of track and European trains. Yes, many of them are commuter trains. But there are trains running town to town, some departing every hour. There are locals and express, slow and fast, new and some beautiful old trains.
Eastern European Trains
The Golden Eagle Tran-Siberian Express began service from Moscow to Vladivostok in 2007. It brought a whole new experience to the Trans-Siberian rail experience. The eight-day train trip becomes a 15-day program eastbound and westbound. In-depth sightseeing fills up the extra days. Accommodations all have an en-suite bathroom. The train also has two dining cars and a lounge car.
Then they kick it up another notch and add Imperial Suites with a king-sized bed and lounge area. You can go to Siberia in style now. There is one eastbound and one westbound a month May through August.
Golden Eagles forth train goes by the name Golden Eagle Danube Express. This luxury train spends much of its time in Eastern Europe. Popular itineraries include Budapest to Venice, Venice to Istanbul and other cities near the Danube. They also make special trips to Italy and Switzerland from time to time.
Western European Trains
Spain
In Northern Spain, running from San Sabastian to Santiago de Compostela is the El Transcantábrico Gran Lujo This luxury train carries 52-passengers in style across the north coast of Spain.
While a luxury train, they do not enforce the dress code strictly. However, most guests do use it as an excuse to wear seldom-used formal attire. The cuisine is of Northern Spain and features traditional recipes from Castile. The train overnights in towns letting the night-owls party, while others enjoy a peaceful sleep. Off-train programs, included, take place every day.
Also operating in the same area is the El Transcantábrico Clásico. If the sister train above is the Ritz-Carlton, this is the JW Marriott. Both are nice. The cabins on the Clasico train are smaller. It also includes off-train experiences and excellent cuisine.
Another difference is it does a seven-night itinerary, adding Leon and dropping San Sabastian. You can also book a portion of the seven-night, doing three nights or four.
In the south of Spain is the Al-Andalus offering a most popular six-night round trip program from Seville. Here you see the highlights of Andalusia including Rhonda, Jurez, Cadiz, Cordoba, and Granada. You will see/visit UNESCO sites in Granada, Cordoba, and Baeza.
Like its two sister trains in the north, they do not strictly enforce the dress code. However, it is an excuse to wear seldom-used formal attire. The cuisine is a mix of Mediterranian and Andalusian.
Northern European Trains
Scotland
For the last four trains, we go back to Belmond. Starting in Scotland with the Belmond Royal Scotsman, or as your kids or grandkids may know it, the Hogswart Express. The train makes an appearance in the Harry Potter movies.
With only 40 guests, this is an intimate, luxury train — plan on dressing for dinner. There is gourmet, dining, wine-pairing, superior service, and exciting excursions.
A majority of the train’s cars, date from the 1960s. Todays interiors mirror an Edwardian country house with varnished woods, polished brass, and muted fabrics.
You visit castles, distilleries, lochs, and other heritage sites. Trips depart and return to Edinburgh on three, four and seven-night adventures. Just about everything is inclusive, including alcohol. The train pulls onto a siding at night for sleeping. This trip is an authentic Scottish experience.
Ireland
If only there were a train like that in Ireland. Well, there is. The Belmond Grand Hibernian decked out like an exceptional Georgian home, does many itineraries all over the Emerald Isle. It is a Grand-hotel on rails like its sister in Scotland. Most departures are from Dublin.
From your rolling country home, you will visit or view castles, crystal, countryside, coastal scenery, and cities. From the Republic of Ireland in the south to Northern Ireland, there is something for everyone. Itineraries range from two to four and six nights, or you can combine them.
England
If only there were a train like that in England. Well, there is, and there isn’t. Directly out of the old British movies comes the Belmond British Pullman. This luxury train embodies everything fabulous about English train travel. You expect to see Holmes and Watson, or perhaps Hercule Poirot sitting in one of the wood-paneled cars.
However, this train only does one-day excursions. There are no sleeping accommodations on board. But the daily trips (most Wednesdays through Sundays) are incredible. The first-class service begins the moment you step on board. You depart from London Victoria Station, with a Bellini in hand. Next, enjoy a deluxe brunch en route to a castle, coastal village, cathedral or college town. The choices are numerous.
After plenty of time to explore your destination, reboard the train for the return to London. Depending on the time of day, either afternoon tea or an excellent four-course dinner with wine awaits.
They also offer weekend programs with train travel and overnight accommodations in a hotel.
But I want to ride the Belmond British Pullman, and overnight on A train, there is a way. Book our last train to/from London.
France
Perhaps the most famous train of all, the star of books, movies, and documentaries, is the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE).
First though, some clarification. This train began service in 1982, using vintage cars from numerous European trains, restored to their former glory. The train of today is a beautiful Pheonix of the train from 1883.
The original Orient Express was a long-distance passenger train service between Paris and Istanbul, (Constantinople at that time.) The Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits (CIWL) was running the train. Not only did they own the train cars, but the staff was also CIWL employees. They were the premier provider and operator of European railway sleepers and dining cars from 1872 into the late 1900s.
They were the first in Europe to run trains between countries and in luxury cars, like the Pullmans in America. Soon they are running all of the “best” luxury trains in Europe and to Asia and Africa.
Todays CIWL, with several parent companies, still owns the Orient Express Brand which they lease to Belmond.
Intrigue, or at least clarification
Belmond leases the name of the Simplon Orient Express which began service in April 1919. With the success of the original train, CIWL starts adding “Orient Express” to the name of other routes. The Simplon Orient Express follows a southerly path from Paris to Milan, Venice, Trieste, Zagreb, Belgrade, Sofia, and Istanbul.
By this time, the original O.E. daily departure is between Paris and Budapest. Do you see where this is going? In 1934, H Peirot would have been boarding the Simplon Orient Express in Istanbul. Fun fact for Agatha Christie fans.
Why did Belmond not lease the original Orient Express name? Maybe because in 1982, the original, well, the remains of it, Orient Express was still running. It would do scheduled service until 2009. In the end, there are no wagons-lit cars, although the staff is from CIWL. And the service was between Strasbourg and Vienna.
Intrigue Today
The name Belmond has been around since 2014. But, wait, you said the train began operating in 1982. It did. At that time, they were also leasing the name Orient-Express Hotels Ltd. So in 2014, after more than 30 years, they change their name. We need a new face; it’s too expensive to lease the name anymore; there were many rumors as to why.
Then in 2017, AccorHotels, who sold CIWL to SNCF (national state-owned railway company) partners with them and announces their “new” Orient Express Hotel portfolio. SNCF still owns seven Wagons-lit carriages which they will operate as private charters. I don’t believe in coincidences.
What About The Train?
The current Venice Simplon Orient Express is a once in a lifetime experience. It will transport you back to the glamour and elegance of the Golden Age of travel. Sit in an over-stuffed chair with wood paneling surrounding you. Sparkling crystal by Lalique glitters in the soft lighting. Even the air feels different.
I have only been on the train once, and just long enough to tour and have a glass of champagne. For those 40 minutes, I was in a different world than the one I left on the station platform. The traditional trip is from Paris to Venice.
Departing Paris in the evening, you have dinner on the train. In the morning you wake to the Swiss Alps outside your window. By 6:00 that evening, you are crossing the viaduct to Venice’s Santa Lucia station.
Throughout the year, they also make different special trips. Once a year, they do the Paris to Istanbul run. It is a five-night extravaganza with hotel overnights in Budapest, Bucharest and three nights on the train. This itinerary usually sells out a year in advance.
Retirement, 50th-wedding anniversary or milestone birthday, this makes one heck of a memory.
You Never Told me about the British Pullman Overnight
Guests booking the Venice Simplon Orient Express from/to London will also ride on the British Pullman. Departing London, you will enjoy brunch on the British Pullman as you make your way to Folkestone on the coast. Here you board a luxury coach for the approximately 35-minute ride on the Eurotunnel Shuttle under the English Channel. The Venice Simplon Orient Express will be waiting for you in Calais to continue your journey.
European Trains Summary
Today, the European trains are a destination in themselves. Why? This I can sum up in one word, tradition. Well, it is more a wishful tradition than reality.
There never was an Orient Express Train. Its a route like Flight #23. Different engines and train cars made up numerous departures. It was and is a route and an experience.
The Trans-Siberian experience of today is a luxury trip. A trip to Siberia used to have a much different connotation.
So there is some tradition. The cars are like nothing you board for a daily commute or trip to the next city. Most of them have new carpets and upholstery to feel like days of yester. So there is nostalgia.
Comfortable beds come with a view. Dining salons feature fine cuisine and excellent wine. So, they are part luxury.
And there is the experience, both on the train and off. The European trains are tradition, nostalgia, and luxury resulting in a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Do you want to come aboard?
Want to know more about any of the trains? Click any of the Orange Links above.
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“See Bergamo Italy” Continued on Page T3 “Taste Athens Greece” Continued on T4