Table of Contents:
TAKE A HIKE.
SHOULD-SEE ANDROS.
Andros? Where is that? It is the northernmost of the Cycladic Islands and almost due east of Athens. It is the second largest of the Cyclades and the only one with (small) waterfalls. There is no airport on the island, so you reach it by ferry from the port of Rafina, near Athen’s International airport. The sailing is about two hours in length. You can also connect to it by ferry from several of the nearby islands, including Siros, Tinos, and Mykonos.
Historical Andros.
Its name is probably from a general in the Creten army, as it was at one time under Crete’s sovereignty. Excavations have found paintings dating to around 4500 B.C. Due to its strategic location, it has had inhabitants ever since.
So you go to Andros for the historical sites? Well, not exactly. Although they do have a few, they are, for the most part, untouched and not easily accessible. You can find some signs on the island in English. However, very few of the historic sites are for English speaking/reading tourists. Not only at the sites themselves but also the road signs to reach them.
So why go to Andros? It is not a destination for non-Greek tourists.
So I shouldn’t go? No, you should go. You’re not a tourist.
It is the island of shipowners and sea captains.
The natural beauty of the island is intriguing. And you get a Greek experience because international tourists are not invading. Do not get me wrong, June through August, the beaches are full, but with Greeks.
By Mediterranean standards, there are some lovely beaches.
There are several small museums of interest, and the island is an excellent destination for Greek foodies.
A Walk in the Woods.
Andros is an island for walkers and hikers. There are over 180 miles of trails that range from a stroll to a challenge. Some circle while others take you to a different part of the island. There are short walks of less than 3 miles, and there is the island trek that is over 60 miles in length. The northern part of the island looks very Cycladic with rocks and rock walls everywhere. The south part resembles Northern Greece with green hills and forests.
For June through August, there are hikes through shaded sections. Some include streams to splash in or that end at a beach. It is a great way to see the island from another perspective.
Culinary Andros.
There are several local flavors you need to try while on the island. Cow milk cheeses, sausages, and smoked pork pieces are unique. The most popular local dishes are confections with flavorings from almond, walnut, bitter orange, rose petals, sour cherry, and lemon. Fourtalia is an omelet type dish with potato, local sausage, and cheese.
What is in Andros for me?
See & Hear.
Visitors should focus on the natural beauty of the island. For historians, there is some history, but very little of it remains. Archeological sites are on the small size. Find a deserted beach and listen to the call of the Aegean.
Another option is to sit in the Hora (Chora, Andros Town) main square next to a Byzantine fountain, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Taste the spoon sweets. The Andriots (locals) eat these jammy concoctions they make from local fruit and vegetables with a spoon. They also use them as a topping or a spread. Take a walk through the woods and smell the fresh air. Taste the clean water that bubbles from one of the local springs.
Feel.
Watch the sunset from one of many spots along the west coast.
Think back about your hike earlier in the day or driving down gravel roads where you didn’t see any other people for miles.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
SHOULD SEE SITES.
Monastery of Panachrantos – Moni Panachrantos, is a fortress-like monastery built in the 960s during the Byzantine occupation. Once a thriving silk production center and school of philosophy, today it is home to three monks. You can arrive from above on the predominantly paved but death-defying curvy road. Or from below up the even more dangerous, gravel lane. Either way, your reward is incredible views. I recommend four-wheel vehicles and printing out maps before leaving home. G.P.S. is almost non-existent, and the car rental maps are more like suggestions than useful maps. Remember to cover your shoulders and knees.
Hora (Chora, Andros Town).
Most locals refer to it as Hora, but know it has several aliases. This pedestrian-only town sits on a peninsula between two public beaches. The architecture is a mix of neo-classical, medieval, and Cycladic styles. Many of the mansions are/were the homes of sea captains and ship owners. Today, several have become boutique hotels or small museums. Several sites to see in the town are:
Castle of Cato Kastro (Lower Castle) – was built by Venetian Marino Dandolo (a nephew of The Doge) in 1207 A.D. It was in use defending against invaders for over 300 years until the Ottoman conquest around 1566. It withstood an attack by the sea for almost another 400 years until the Germans heavily bombed it in 1943.
Faro Tourlitis – is the lighthouse on a rock outcropping just beyond the Cato Kastro. The first lighthouse on the rock began service in 1897. In 1943, the Germans used it for target practice. The Goulandris family rebuilt the tower in 1994 to its original design. They did this in memory of their daughter, Violanda.
Church Panagia Thalassini (Virgin of the Sea) – protects the seafarers from a rock outcropping in the harbor within sight of the boats. A chapel to either the virgin or Agios Nikolaos (Patron Saint of sailors) is present in most Greek harbors.
Museums.
Maritime Museum of Hora – is at the far end of the town, closest to the Cato Kastro. This neo-classical mansion includes a collection of nautical instruments, documents, and other items from Andros’s long maritime history.
Library of Kairis – is also in a mansion. It houses manuscripts and other naval documents from Andros’s past. In the summer, they host special exhibits.
Archaeological Museum of Andros – houses a nice collection of artifacts from Paleopolis, Zagora and other sites around the island.
Museum of Contemporary Art – is a beautiful surprise to fans of modern art. Opening in 1979 by locals Basil and Elise Goulandris, it was to house their collection as well as the works of the native sculptor, Michael Tombros. Today, besides featuring some of Greece’s most distinguished artists, you can also find works by Picasso, Matisse, and others.
Historic.
Pre 5th Century B.C.
Palaeopolis is on the west coast, south of Batsi. It is the ancient capital of Andros (Classical period 8 B.C. – 5 B.C.) and later a port during Roman times. The ruins are a site for the serious historian as the few remnants of temples and streets require a vivid imagination. As you will be walking through the brush over uneven surfaces, I recommend long pants and hiking shoes.
Archaeological Museum of Paleopolis
It is for those guests not wishing to go off-path. The museum sits on the central west coast road so easy to spot, although parking can be tricky. It is adjacent to the turn off for the archeological site. This small museum packs a lot in when you consider its size. There are three collections, sculptures, inscriptions, and everything else. Although some are copies from the museum in Hora, they all come from this area. Labels are in Greek AND English. Admission is free.
Post 5th Century B.C.
Castle Faneromeni – A.k.a Epano Kastro (Upper Castle), the castle of Kochylos or Castle of Gria, is another site for historical junkies only. Possibly a Byzantine stronghold, the remains found there today (very limited) are from the Venetian period (1200 A.D.). Let the term “Upper” indicate there are numerous steps.
Tower of Agios Petros – is a defense tower sitting on the hillside above the west coast village of Kipri. Dating probably from the Hellenistic Period (4th-3rd century B.C.) you can still climb part of the way up. I would include it on a west coast hike.
Nature.
Foros Cave – has an impressive collection of stalactites and stalagmites. Include it on a walk with the arched bridge of Aladino Village. The Monastery of Panachrantos is straight up the mountain behind the cave, and Menites Village is on the other side of the valley.
Villages.
Apikia Village – This hillside village, near Hora, is a convenient starting point for hikes to Sariza Spring, Pythara ravine, and Gialia Beach.
Stenies Village – is a small hillside village with traditional Cycladic architecture. Stone houses and paved pedestrian streets are the main characteristics of this village. Stenies is not for tourists. It is an authentic Greek village for travelers. Buildings of note include the three-story Tower of Bisti-Mouvela, from the 17th century, and Agios Georgios church, with a 1737 fresco.
Menites Village – is a beautiful village further down the valley sitting at more than 600 feet above sea level. The town is famous for its springs and has paved pedestrian streets and footpaths for hiking. The Springs of Dionysus, fountains adorned with lion heads, should be seen while here. It combines well with Aladino Village at the bottom of the valley.
Towns.
Batsi – used to be a fishing village. Today, it is the central resort area of the island. Somehow, it has kept some of its traditions and charm despite the development. Little houses mix with little hotels circling the round bay. There is still a small fishing harbor at its south end and a sandy beach towards the middle. It works well as a base as there are several levels of accommodations. There are tavernas spots to watch the sunsets, evening entertainment, sundries, and little shops.
Ormos – is more a Greek vacation resort area where families go for a week at the beach. The beach is pleasant and full service.
Gavrio – is the gateway to the island as it has the ferry dock to and from the island. Each ferry vomits hundreds of people and cars onto the pier, and they scramble in all directions. The hawkers meet every ferry selling accommodations, vehicle rentals, and excursions. This first impression is not good. There is a lot of inexpensive lodging and even camping nearby. It attracts a lot of the backpacking crowd on a budget. And, in turn, caters to them. Great news for backpackers, but probably not for you and me.
Then at sundown, something happens. Things “calm down.” It doesn’t turn into the sleepy fishing village it was 20+ years ago. However, it takes on the spirit of its past. You can still find excellent little tavernas, full of locals, enjoying ouzo, and a sunset. Later, enjoy an incredible seafood dinner caught locally that day.
Scenic Drives.
Hora to Ormos – passes through the villages of Paleokastro. These include Kohilou, Lardia, and Episkopio. Traditional villages with stone houses will show you the real Greek experience. Stops (hikes) along the way include the Paleokastro and the stone bridge at Dipotamata. You can also reach the Monastery of Panachrantos by paved road from above, which I highly suggest.
Ormos to Hora – going clockwise takes you to the hillside villages of Aidonia, Korthio, Amonaklios, and Piso Maria. See if you feel like you are on an island. As you drive back towards Hora, make a detour to the Cyclades Olive Museum above the hillside village of Pitrofos. Here, you can see a real olive mill and how they work. This small museum is educational and indeed a view into Greek life.
Beaches.
With around 100 beaches, there is something for everyone. The “party” beaches are Aghios Petros, Psili (or Chrissi) Ammos, and Kypri bay.
Paralia Tis Grias to Pidima – is one of the most photographed beaches on the island even though there is not much of a beach. There is a rocky coastline that even seals would find uncomfortable. The reason for the Kodak moment is the single rock formation that juts up out of the sea. And with it, one of the flimsier Greek myths. It is a ten-minute drive from Ormos over gravel and occasional teeth-rattling bumpy road. The hike/climb down is longer. The hike/climb back up is much longer.
Vitali Beach is another one people seem to get very excited about, and I’m not sure why. The last 15 – 20 minutes of the drive is on a hard-packed gravel road (That the Cycladic Islands seem to have an abundance of) where I find (and seem to hit) every hard bump in the way. I spend much of the drive looking in the mirror for car parts behind me. The beach is a sand and pebble mixture (aqua shoes), so not as crowded as the beaches closer to town. There are chairs for rent and a nearby taverna for food and restrooms.
Living in Florida, the local beaches spoil me. Therefore, I do not fly halfway around the world to go to the beach. On Andros, I find the public beaches in Ormos, Hora, and Batsi are perfect for my 1-2 hours. There are restrooms and tavernas with cold drinks nearby. Agios Petros (St Peters) between Batsi and Gavrio is also easy to access.
