July 19, 2020 – Andalusia Cuisine

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.

WHERE TO?                       TASTE.                        SEE

Andalusian cuisine has influences from the Romans, Arabs, and many other visitors from across Europe.

It is undoubtedly a version of the Mediterranean diet with its healthy raw ingredients and plenty of olive oil.

Due to the mild climate, the farms of Andalusia have five harvesting periods, so there is something fresh year-round.

This will probably change your ideas of Spanish cuisine.

The term a la Andaluza refers to dredging the item in flour only, without egg or other binding ingredients. They then fry it in local olive oil. If they are making a batter, they may include ground chickpeas.

The provinces of Córdoba, Granada, Jaén, and Seville produce the majority of the Andalusian olive oil. But you will find small local production just about everywhere.

Taste Andalusian Foods With Status.

Spain, like many Mediterranian countries, can produce fresh ingredients year-round, so most everything is ripe and tasty.

But some products knock it further out of the ballpark and acquire special status.

Denominación de Origen (D.O.P.) –  is part of the regulatory classification system. Beginning with wine, it also now applies to cheeses, condiments, honey, meats, and more.

Protected Denominations of Origin (P.D.O.). – The P.D.O. is a similar status that applies to other food products.

I still cannot get a clear answer to what the difference is, so try both.

Protected Geographical Indication (P.G.I.) – are products working towards the D.O.P. status. There are more requirements for each level.

There are additional lower level ratings and status, but these three should keep you from going hungry.

Taste Andalusian Appetizers.

Everywhere you go, they will tell you that they are the birthplace of Tapas, small dishes. Every region has its unique spin on Tapas. But, there is evidence that the tradition of small pieces of food with a drink, probably originates in Andalusia.

During a visit to Cadiz, King Alfonso XIII complains about sand blowing into his sherry. A waiter covers the King’s glass with a strip of Jamon (ham). The King, liking the idea, asks for another drink a Tapear, (topping).  Or so the legend goes. The reality, it was probably to keep fruit flies out of the sherry.

There is no one recipe for Tapas. There are as many variations as there are ingredients and combination of foods. Some of the more popular in Andalusia include:

Chicharrón – are pork rinds they fry in olive oil until they develop a crunchy texture. Originating in Andalusia, ships would carry the recipe to the new world. Today, many central and South American countries have their version.

Pinchitos – are small kababs of marinated chicken, lamb, or pork pieces. The seasonings are definitely from the Moors and may include cinnamon, coriander, cumin, paprika, or saffron.

Ras el Hanout is a mixture of those spices and also contains cardamom, clove, nutmeg, ginger, peppers, paprika, and more.

Migas – comes in numerous variations. Bread crumbs, garlic, and olive oil seem to be the only common ingredients. Others may include sausage, bacon, peppers, or other items. Like a very flavorful bread dressing, it may be a Tapas or entree.

Soldaditos de Pavía – is an import from landlocked Madrid featuring cod. They marinate the fish in lemon juice, wrap it with roasted red pepper, and then fried in a light batter.

Berenjenas con Miel de Cana – are slices of fried eggplant they drizzle with the Miel de Cana honey.

Taste Andalusian Ham.

Acorn-fed Iberian ham

This meat is Iberian ham deriving from pigs on an exclusive acorn (bellota) diet. Also, they graze in the mountainous ranges of Huelva and Cordoba, living a pretty peaceful life.

The slow, hands-on process creates a ham with a rich aroma, soft texture, and full taste. And with its monounsaturated fatty acids, it’s not as sinful.

• Jamón de Los Pedroches P.D.O. – comes from Cordoba, where there are thousands of acres of Holm, Cork, and Gall oak.
• Jamón de Jabugo (Huelva) P.D.O. – comes from the Andalusian provinces of Cadiz, Cordoba, Huelva, Malaga, and Seville. The mountainous regions in the northwest produce a more aromatic and tasteful ham.

Serrano ham

This ham comes from the Duroc or Landrace breeds of white pigs. These pigs are not free-range and have a diet of cereals. After curing, they age for eight months to two years.

• Jamón de Teruel P.D.O. – is not from Andalusia, but the mountains in the Aragon region. It produces a less salty yet smooth ham.
• Jamón de Trevélez P.D.O. – from southern Andalusia has a unique micro-climate, giving it its distinct taste and texture.

Taste Andalusian Cheese

Manchego is an unpasteurized sheep’s cheese that comes in several forms from soft cheese to a hard cured wheel.

• Queso de las Alpujarras P.D.O. – Using the milk from the White Andalusian goat, they produce a slightly sweet cheese to nibble with wine.
• Queso de los Pedroches –  comes predominantly from sheep milk, although some include goat and cow milk. The yellow cheese has a medium flavor.

Taste Andalusian Soups and Salad.

• Ajoblanco – Is a cold almond soup from the Moors. Starting with stale bread, they would moisten it with water and vinegar. For flavor, they add a generous amount of fresh garlic, and almonds, which are readily accessible.
• Gazpacho – came long after Ajoblanco. Why? Because its main ingredients, tomatoes, and peppers do not arrive in Spain until sometime in the 1500s, probably from Peru. This cold soup also features small pieces of cucumbers, onions, peppers, in a tomato, bread, vinegar, and olive oil base.

• Salmorejo – from Córdoba, is Gazpacho’s thicker “cousin.” Using the same tomato base, they top it with hard-boiled egg and strips of local ham.
• Porra Antequerana – is even thicker than Salmorejo and usually includes green and red pepper in the base.
• Gazpachuelo – is the Andalusian version of fisherman’s soup. A soup stock with potato, egg yolks, mayonnaise, garlic, and olive oil. To this, they usually add whatever the day catch brings.

• Habas a la Rondeña – is a salad of (boiled) broad beans, Jamon, and diced hard-boiled egg. The dressing is olive oil and garlic. You find this in Ronda.

Taste Andalusian Entrees.

Andalusian cuisine, like just about anywhere in Europe, comes from the peasants. Stews, soups, and casseroles with a recipe that says “whatever is available” are common.

Dishes that you could only find on Abuela’s (grandmothers) table are now appearing on restaurant menus.

A few entrees to seek out include:

• Huevos a la flamenco – is a bed of chorizo sausage and tomato sauce, with a fried egg on top. That is the basic recipe that everyone modifies. It is not necessarily a breakfast item.

• Pringa –  is a roast of pork, or beef, with cured morcilla or chorizo sausage. They slow cook it all day until the meat falls apart.
• Flamenquín Cordobés – is a thin piece of pork loin they roll with Jamón, bread, and fry. Looking at the name, guess where it is most popular.
• Rabo de Toro – originates in Southern Spain, the home to bullfighting. Not wasting any part of the bull, it starts as a roast. Then they remove the meat, strain the remaining liquid then reduce it into a flavorful sauce.

• Arroz Cardoso con Pato (rice with duck) – comes from the marshes near the mouth of the Guadalquivir river. The area has an abundance of rice and wildlife, including duck. The stock for cooking both includes tomato, peppers, onions, mushrooms, garlic, and sherry.

Seafood

Cadiz, Malaga, Granada, and Almeria, are on the Mediterranean, while Huelva is on the Atlantic. The colder Atlantic offers different seafood than the warmer Mediterranian.

Expect to find fish and other seafood on most menus. Taste white shrimp, prawns, murex (rock snails), squid, and an Atlantic crab, Bocas de la Isla.

Fish include fresh anchovies (boquerones), sardines, mackerel, sea bream, monkfish, sole, sea bass, red mullet, grouper, swordfish, tuna, and more.

• Puntillitas – is a seafood delicacy of fried baby squid with a salty and lemon flavor.
• Pescaito Frito – is a small fish, they batter in flour and fry in olive oil. They sprinkle it with a little salt and serve it with lemon slices.

• Espetos – are sardines they thread onto small reeds and roast over an open flame.
• Choco frito – is the Spanish version of the Portuguese fish and chips. Using Atlantic cuttlefish, first, they boil it with garlic and bay leaves. Then they marinate it in lemon juice and wine. Finally, they coat it with cornflour before frying.
• Soldaditos de Pavía – are cod strips in a batter of saffron, garlic, cumin, flour, and vinegar, that they fry.

Vegetables

• D.O.P. Huétor Tájar Asparagus – comes from the fertile valley near Granada. It is very fragrant.
• P.G.I. Escacena Chickpea – offer a creamy, non-grainy texture, and a delicate taste.
• Sierra de Aracena Mushrooms  – have no status rating, but they should. They saute them in olive oil, oye.

Fruits

• D.O.P. Cherimoya (custard apple) – is a fragile apple with sweet fruit. It is for eating alone or as apple bits, but not for cooking. You find them around Malaga and Granada.

• D.O.P. Malaga raisins – go through natural dehydration, making a pure sweet fruit.
• P.G.I. Tomate La Cañada – from the Almeria region, they produce cherry, ribbed, and oblong varieties of this tasty tomato.

Peaches, nectarines, and plums are very popular in Andalusia.

Taste Andalusian Vinegar

Sherry Vinegar is a condiment resulting from the fermentation of wine made from grapes grown for sherry.

• Sherry Vinegar – ages for approximately six months in old sherry casks of American oak.
• Reserve Sherry Vinegar – ages for more than two years. Everything increases during this time.
• Vinagre de Jerez P.D.O.. – is a vinegar from the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry and Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda. It produces a strong, rich, sherry with a winey flavor.

• Sherry Vinegar, P.D.O. Reserve – is the first Spanish vinegar to receive P.D.O., statue. It includes hints of the oak wood from the aging.

Taste Andalusian Sweets.

Miel de Cana – is honey they make from sugarcane and is more like molasses. It came to Spain via the Moors. Today, the only factory in Europe, making this type of honey is in the Andalusia white village of Frigiliana.

Another staple in sweets that came with the Moors is the use of almonds.

Desserts

• Mantecado de Estepa P.G.I., – are shortbreads from the town of Estepa, south of Cordoba. They come in several flavors and are famous.
• Castilleja de la Cuesta Tortas de Aceite P.G.I.  – come from the Castilleja de La Cuesta, 30 miles south of Estepa. They are famous for their olive oil, flour, and sugar biscuit. 
• Piononos de Santa Fe – come from a bakery’s secret recipe in the small town of Santa Fe, near Granada. Looking like the Pope (if you squint real tight), they roll sponge cake into a cylinder. They pour different syrups over this cake. For his hat, they toast cream (think meringue).

Taste Andalusian Cuisine Summary.

Are these all the traditional dishes of Andalusian cuisine? Hardly.

It really is just the tip of the ice burg.

We did not even mention Andalusian sherry and wine, which is another whole page.

With thousands of years of influences from Asia, Africa, and Europe, Andalusian cuisine just has to be fascinating.

Hopefully, you see why the UNESCO sites are not the only reason to visit Andalusia.

By all means, come for the fascinating architecture, history, and people.

But plan plenty of time to Taste Andalusian cuisine.

Learn more about  Spanish Cuisine.

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“Did you learn anything about Andalusian cuisine? What would you try first?” 

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“See the World” Continued on Page T3.           “Taste the World” Continued on T11.