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NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD-SEE AEGINA.
You’re in Athens, and you only have 24 hours to see a Greek island. You’re in luck because just an hours ferry ride away is Aegina. Right in Athen’s backyard is an island with archaeological sites, museums, and fishing villages to see. Beaches, hiking, and nightlife to experience. Small fishing villages with seafood so fresh you should smack it. And the pistachios. You have to sample the island’s pistachios.
Ancient History.
Aegina has old history and the temples to prove it. There are ruins adjacent to the Archeological museum. And there are ruins with links to Cape Sounion and Athen’s Parthenon. Its earliest history is probably as a trading port. Ships from the nearby Peloponesse would trade with boats coming from the Greek mainland. The island is a convenient halfway point between the two. Minoan artifacts, dating to 2000 B.C. prove it’s vast reach.
The Aegina Treasure, gold jewelry unearthed on the island, appears to date back to between 1500 and 1800 B.C. Unfortunately, it, like many other items relating to Greece’s history, is in the British Museum.
Aegina coins (staters) dating back to 700 BC indicate trading was going on in ancient times. These may be the first coins in Europe. The island is first found in print in regards to it joining the League of Calauria, around 8 B.C. It is during this period where Aegina is becoming a naval power.
The period between the 7th and 4th century B.C. is somewhat hazy. It is clear that Athens and Aegina were strong rivals, but dates and facts conflict. Towards the end of this period, Aegina shows signs of decline. Probably from the loss of trading due to battles with the Athenian navy keeping the traders away.
We do know that Greece and the Peloponnese fall to Philip II, King of Macedonia around 322 B.C. By 122 B.C. the Romans are in charge.
Less Ancient.
The Roman Empire will have control over Greece for the next almost 500 years. Christian communities will spread out from nearby Corinth, with leaders baptized by the Apostle Paul. By the end of the 2nd century A.D., Jewish communities begin to appear as they flee from the Barbarian attacks on the mainland of Europe. Like the rest of Greece and much of eastern Europe, the next several hundred years have similar histories.
With the splitting of the Roman Empire in 395 A.D., Aegina remains Eastern Roman (Byzantine) with Constantinople as the seat of power. As an island, it avoids some of the attacks and seizures mainland Greece will go through over the next several hundred years.
With the Fourth Crusade in 1204, all of Greece including Aegina is split up by the Frankish as war prizes. They will oversee the area for the next 200 years.
1451 A.D. and the growing powerhouse of Venice takes control of much of Greece. It will hold on to most of the Peloponesse, including Aegina until 1537.
Suliman, the Ottoman sultan, declares war on Venice (and all of its holdings). In 1537 they conquer Aegina, killing all the men and enslaving the women and children. The Venetians fight back. And for the next almost 400 years Aegina is in turmoil, with various captors and shaky treaties.
1821 and the Greek War of Independence. Aegina becomes an administrative center for the Greek revolutionaries.
Aegina Today.
The island became a favorite getaway for other Greeks in the 1960s. Greek architects were designing hotels and deluxe vacation homes. The resort area of Ag Marina was one of the most popular until the 1980s when local politics crushed development. It is slowly regaining in popularity.
The island is still more popular with Greeks than tourists, and I am alright with that. It has ancient sites, the scenic beaches and, overlooks for the tourist in me. There is excellent cuisine with a focus on local seafood and the PDO pistachios. And the people. That’s why I like going to the less touristy places because you see the real heart of the location, it’s people.
Aegina, if only for a day, should be on everyone’s Athen’s itinerary.
Should See Aegina.
The Town.
Agios Nikolaos.
Marking the entrance to Aegina harbor is the whitewashed church dating from the 14th century. Its construction was with funding from local sailors. Agios Nikolaos (St. Nicholas), is the patron saint of sailors.
Fish Market.
Facing town from the ferry pier, much of social town is to your right, curving around the harbor. Approximately 250 yards along the harbor front is the fish market. It will undoubtedly give you a taste of local life (in the morning when the fisherman return). But do not miss the show across the street. Many fishing boats become make-shift floating markets with their catch never making it to the market across the street. You will not find seafood fresher than this. You can usually find vendors on the adjacent sidewalk selling fresh vegetables and fruits.
City Hall.
Facing the fish market, to the right, the two-story building dating from 1886, is the City Hall. It is a typical example of neoclassical architecture. On the street (ground) level is one of the island’s oldest kafeneia. Loosely translating, it means cafe. The serving of coffee does happen here, but the food is not the reason they are coming. It is a social center. Once only for men, this is where they while away the hours, conversing with the other men. Activities range from playing backgammon or just watching life from a shaded porch. It is a glimpse into Greek tradition.
Historical and Folklore Museum.
Two blocks back from the waterfront, at 21 Spyrou Rodi Street, is the quaint museum. Not only do you get to see the inside of a traditional home, but there is a collection of historical objects archival documents from the previous owner. During his life, he was an archeologist, lecturer on literature, folklorist and the director of the local secondary school.
Tower of Markellos.
A five-minute walk from the waterfront is this tower dating from the 1700s. Formerly it is part of the fortifications and serves as a watchtower for the Venetians. They repurpose it for the Greek revolution in 1921. Today, it hosts occasional exhibits.
Governor’s Residence (Kyvernio).
A few minutes’ walk from the tower is a building dating from 1803. In 1827, they prepared it as a residence and office for the first governor of the new Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias. The first government mint may have been operating from the ground floor. The first floor, with access from an outside staircase, was the bedroom and office, as well as government offices. After the government moves to Nafplio in 1830, the building is a Bishop’s residence, and a refugee center until 1873. It sits deserted until restoration makes it a school, then Archaeological Museum.
The Nazis make it their commanding post and barracks during WWII. In the 1960s, it becomes a high school again. Then in 1984, a government building for the housing of the historical archives. As of fall of 2018, renovations on the building seem to be at a standstill.
The Cathedral of Aegina (Mitropolis).
Mitropolis (the main cathedral in Greek cities) is a short walk from Kyvernio. Kyvernio Street becomes Mitropoleos Street. The building dates from 1806 and has the traditional three front arches, three domes of red tile. There are three altars inside. It was here in January of 1828 that the Greek people receive their new governor-elect. A few days later, Ioannis Kapodistrias’s inauguration will take place inside the church. The church will also serve as the first Parliament building and a school. The bell tower (campanile) features a bell from the governor. Construction takes place during Kapodistrias’ two-year rule. You can see the bell tower as you approach the island. The inside is worth a look.
Edinid (Central) Teaching School.
As you enter the cathedral yard, to your right is a Capodistrian building with columns. This building, dating from 1830 was the first higher education school in the new capital of Greece. The purpose was to have renowned professors certify the local teachers. They would, in turn, pull up the education of their pupils. Unfortunately, the capital moves to Nafplio and eventually the school closes. The building will serve as a library, and two different archaeological museums until 1982. Today, although maintained, it is nothing more than a storage building.
Kapodistrian (Fylakes) Orphanage.
This stone building, dating from 1828, is at the southern edge of town near the soccer field. Governor Kapodistrias’ builds it as a home and school for orphans due to the Greek War of Independence. It is also a vocational school, church, a printing office, library, museum, a military cadet school, and music school. In 1880, it became a prison. In 1967 – 74 they use it for political prisoners during the military junta. It was also a wildlife care center until 1989. Unfortunately, as of fall of 2018, plans to open a museum are at a standstill.
North of the Pier.
The Archaeological Museum of Aegina.
Following the coast road from town, the first thing you come across is the museum on the left-hand side. Although there has been a museum since 1829, it moves to the current building in 1980. Inside are various collections of statues and artifacts found on the island. Due to its far-flung trading with other ports, items originating from different isles turn up in excavations as well.
Hill of Kolona.
Hill of the one column (kolona) site behind the Archeological Museum of Aegina. The single column is from a Doric Temple to Apollo dating from 520 B.C. Most of the temples they tear down in the fourth century A.D. as they are worshipping other gods. The area the temple sits on has been the site of inhabitants from around 3000 B.C. The former towns had stone walls surrounding them, the foundations still visible in places. Due to its proximity to the sea, they also built seawalls to stop large ships from landing. You can still see parts of these walls just under the surface of the peninsula. Admission to the site is through the museum.
Christos Kapralos Museum.
The museum is on the coastal road leading from the harbor. Kapralos, a Greek sculptor, was born on the island in 1909. He passed away in 1993. His inspiration came from simple things such as everyday life on the island, his friends, and relatives. It also reflects times of war and peace.
Nikos Kazantzakis (honorable mention).
The Greek author called Aegina one of many homes during his life. While working on “Translations of the Odyssey” he lived just down the road from the Kapralos Museum. The home is a private residence and they do not allow visits.
Further Inland.
Agios Nektarios Complex.
Agios Nektarios of Aegina is a Greek Orthodox Saint. He passed away in 1920 and became a saint in 1961.
St. Nektarios Convent – Holy Trinity.
Nektarios builds a convent in 1907 at the request of several nuns. This female convent is still in use and inhabited by several nuns. Visitors must have arms and legs covered.
Moni Agias Ekaterinis Monastery.
Nektarios built this nearby monastery with his own money as a place to retire and live out the rest of his life as a monk. During this time he did writing, preaching, gardening and helped with the construction of the monastery buildings.
Church of Agios Nectarios.
Between the monastery and the convent, they are building a church in his name. The large church, although not finished, contains the mausoleum of Agios Nektarios. It is a significant pilgrimage site for Greek Orthodox Christians. The monastery site is now one of the largest complexes in Greece.
Paleochora (also Paliachora).
This medieval village dating from the 9th century was the capital of the island until 1826. It sits above the hill of Agios Nektarios. People living along the coast have to retreat here after Saracen pirates kept attacking the coastal settlements. By the time the inhabitants return to the seaside, they leave behind a battered hillside village. There are only approximately 300 houses still standing. All that remains today are some of the churches, around 36. Of these remaining churches, they are of different design and style and are in various levels of upkeep. The views back towards the port are inspiring.
Temple of Athena Aphaia.
The current temple, dating from 480 B.C., sits on the ruins of an earlier temple from around 570 B.C. After it burns down, they fill in the remains to create a more massive flat terrace for the more significant new temple. An additional bonus is they use everything for fill, so archeologists have found a gold mine of artifacts. Figurines include some from the late Bronze Age and others from the 14th century B.C., Minoan civilization. Some are in the museum on site.
25 of the original 32 Doric columns still stand. This is unheard of and a testament to the skill of the designers and builders. It sits in a sanctuary complex of many buildings with the temple at the center. The remains of an altar are visible to the east and a rainwater collection system to the north. Near the cistern is the only remnant from the old sanctuary. A large column, 45 feet high with a sphinx on top. It dates from around 600 BC.
Aphaia is the hunting goddess who protects shipping. She smiled upon the maritime prosperity of Aegina during the sixth and fifth centuries. In return, they built the temple to thank her. Perhaps by chance, but maybe by a plan, the temple forms an isosceles triangle with the Hephaisteion in Athens and the temple of Poseidon in Sounion. Spookier still, the Temple also forms an isosceles triangle with the Temple to Apollo in Delphi and the Parthenon in Athens. We know the temples correlate with the sun. The site is open most days. The museum has limited opening times. Plan ahead.
Honorable Mention.
The Temple of Ellanios Zeus/Prophet Elias.
The small church of the Prophet Elias is nothing spectacular. There are no must-see icons. So why drive over rutted roads as far as you can? Then labor on foot up a rocky mountainside to reach it? It sits on the ruins of The Temple of Ellanios Zeus. The ruins reflect the massive scale of construction. A stone staircase ascends past a Hellenistic wall to access two large terraces.
Further, up the hill are remains of cisterns. The building of the temple is a thank you for the rain and the drought ending. It may be the oldest and highest temple in Europe. The views from the top of the mountain (1700 feet above sea level) are impressive. (Think the top of the spire on the One World Trade Center in New York). For those determined, the address is GPS coordinates: 37.7007550, 23.4956320.
Beaches.
Agia Marina Beach.Certainly, there are beaches. But the Greek Isles are not at the top of the list for beach locations for American travelers. If you must have fun in the sun, Marathon to the south and Souvala to the north will work. On the east side of the island is Agia Marina and Perdika Beach.
Pistachios.
Even if you are not a big fan of nuts, try the local pistachios. They are like nothing you have had before.
